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The Custom Built Universal Jeep; Which body style would you custom build?
Topic Started: Mar 13 2009, 02:13 PM (840 Views)
oldtime
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MODERATOR
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Let me define "Trans-Model Jeep"........
One consisting of stock Jeep components irrespective of a specific model designation.
Let me define "Trans-Vintage Jeep"......
One consisting of stock Jeep components irrespective of a specific year of manufacture.
So here the "Custom Built Jeep" is consisting of nearly anything Jeep yet only components
that are Jeep.

One main consideration will be the selection of a Jeep body.
The selection of a Jeep body is perhaps the single most important consideration.
Generally the body alone will incur the single greatest expense for production of a custom jeep.
Furthermore the selection of a specific style of Jeep body allows us to roughly identify the jeep..

A well engineered custom built jeep is the overall goal here.
The selection of the body will affect every important decision to be made concerning the components selected to build a custom jeep.
The look of a custom built universal jeep is born purely of function.
It takes on that form which generally works best for universal applications.
The specific drivetrain and various other components selected to complete such a project
may influence and should be compatible as a complete and synchronized system.

And so it is here I begin, I ask each and everyone for their opinion.
Which Jeep body style is it that you find most acceptable for a Custom Built Universal Jeep ?
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Larry (TX)
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Well Ken, you asked, so here goes: As much as I (obviously) love the 3B style flatfender jeeps, I'd think the CJ5 body style would probably make the best overall to use as a "custom built" jeep. Second choice would be a 3A.

Larry S.
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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Bob W
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CJ-3A of course!
Bob W
www.cj3a.info
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jim
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A 3B all the way!



Jim
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RamblinCJ3B
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Even though I think the 3B is the best looking Jeep made,I would have to go with a C-101 or C-104 as the best Jeep for a "custom Jeep".
Eddie
Clovis,Ca
1956 Willys PU
1962 USN CJ3B Stock
1971 Hurst Jeepster 350
1972 Commando 4.0 HO
1972 Commando I6 258
1975 J20 401
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dunl
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Sylvan Lake, Alberta
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I'm thinking that my CJ-2A comes close to what you are describing Ken. It is a CJ2A body on a CJ5 Frame and axles, complete with lockers and lots of other goodies. It does have a Buick V6 engine, and chev brake calipers, but for the most part, the rest is 95% jeep. Built for off-road.


http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd28b3...3D550/ry%3D400/
www.antiquewillys.com
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oldtime
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Excellent ! We're already getting a wide spectrum of selection.
Let's continue to put our imaginations to task whether or not such a custom built jeep already exists
or dwells only in the mind.

Everyone, please feel free to explain your choice of body style.
Feel free to describe in detail your idea of a synchronous drive train to be used along with anything else
you consider as essential.
Also feel free to integrate your definition of "Universal Jeep" and how that influences your selections.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Daryl
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The dj frame is probably the strongest frame under any of the universal family. As djs dont have doors, the factory thought ahead and boxed in the frames for us. Since most of the body mounts line right up with the flattie tubs, I think that a Jeep engineer must have meant for me to use the dj frames for rebuilding older models. The centered 44s in the djs work perfectly with the model 20 and or 300 transfer cases. After putting a dana 30 up front, you now have an all "Jeep" platform on which to build up your version of the trusty old universal. I personally have a fondness for topping it off with the sheet medal from a CJ3b model.
Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts
In Bonney Lake, Washington
Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out.
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dunl
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Sylvan Lake, Alberta
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So to be universal, we would need a jeep that is a compromise of certain things. The strong frame of the DJ is a good point....but now we need to consider the wheelbase. We have short (early Willys), and then the longer frames of today's standards.

So how about a frame an tub from a Dj-6? Mid-sized frame, stronger than most, and a tub with ample room in the back?

Now, how about an engine to power our universal rig? And why?
www.antiquewillys.com
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dunl
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Sylvan Lake, Alberta
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Wow....did I kill this thread? lol
www.antiquewillys.com
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Brian's 58 3b
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From model to model there are trade offs with in the universal family. The frames are about the same and some modifying for more house power will be needed. For the 2a and 3a the lower hood may case you to put a bump in the hood and or lower the engine a bit. This could cause a concern for the front axle hitting the harmonic balancer or pulley. With the extra 4” in the 3b most of these problems are easer to deal with you can raze the engine. The draw back of the 3b with old trail runners is how high the hood is and it can block the view when approaching obstacles.
“For me” it’s the 3b look! I love it and the extra height in the engine compartment is a plus because I put in a 4.3 Vortec with a CPI manifold with one big chunk of aluminum intake on top of the engine. Other bonuses are: I took a pedal set out of a Wrangler and mounted it. I have room for the brake booster on the fire wall. I can move the battery around a little. I am 6’2” and having the dash a little higher is a big plus.
I like the term “synchronous drive train”. Where do you go with the engine 4,6,8 cylinder For me if you want a 4 cylinder stay stock. 8 cylinder well “over done” in a 2500 lb jeep. However, there is one or two good 8 cylinder synchronous drive train to use.
The Ford 289 with the T-18 and a Dana 18/20 can be easy. You can put a T-18 behind a 304 relatively easy with the right AMC low cost bell housing but have fun fitting that 8 cylinder into a 2a 3a or 3b. The key is keep it short. For crawling, the T-18 with 6:32.1 low then Dana 18 @ 2:46.1. You’re in the ball park with the best of the crawling transmissions and yes. The 304 with the T-18 to Dana 18/20 is still a Trans-model Jeep
Now we are down to GM. The Odd fire 231 is a classic and you can call it jeep but it is a carbureted engine. The modern 90 deg. V6 with TBI or CPI is king. Fuel injection what can you say. When going GM there are only two transmissions Sm420 & Sm465
The Sm420 is 7:05.1 However, the SM420 is fully synchronized in the second through fourth gears most adaptors to the D-18/20 are 4” long
The Sm465 is 6:55.1 and fully synchronized in all gears. Advance Adapters has a Dana 18/20 adapter kit at 7/8” in length the shortest of them all. This keeps the drive train short. A big deal!

So for the Fanken Jeep 4.3 Vortec Sm465 Dana 20/18 one piece flanged 44 w/Air-locker. Narrow track Dana 30 w/Air locker
The original question?
The “Custom Built Jeep” The Dauntless V6 T-18 and or T-90 Dana 20/18 one piece flanged 44 w/Air-locker. Narrow track Dana 30 w/Air locker. All Jeep From 1942-2009
Some are asking why I went so fare with this:
The “Custom Built Jeep”, “Trans-Vintage Jeep” and the. "Trans-Model Jeep" are the same as defined. “The parts I picked for the custom built Jeep are stock Jeep components irrespective of a specific year of manufacture” and are consisting of nearly anything Jeep yet only components that are Jeep where is consisting of stock Jeep components irrespective of a specific model designation.
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ewilson
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Bryan makes several good points in favor of the 3B and I agree. Maybe just because "it's what I had" I've done alot of farm work over the years in a 3B and it has served well.
I'm not sure where mine falls in this thread's categories. It is primarily stock, except in areas where I felt there were better, safer technologies. I used braided stainless fuel and brake line, the 11" brake kit, 12 V alternator electrics, halogen headlamps and LED tail lights.
I believe that at some point, which I can't define, in upgrading and modifyng you lose the "soul" of Jeep.
Does applying the SS trim and documentation to a standard Impala make it an SS car? Not in that world, it's a clone.

I suspect, at best, mine is a clone. The engine and rear axle were replaced years ago and it sports a repro tub. At worst, I have a frame VIN plate, and title with matching numbers.

Thank you for being patient,

Ed
WIRE PALADIN SAN FRANCISCO
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