Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the discussion forums section of the website CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived in the Tech Tips section of the website. If you post a tech problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it may be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.
Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.
| You're currently viewing the forums as a guest. This means there are some features you can't use. If you register, you'll be able to post messages and use member-only features such as customizing your profile and sending personal messages. Registration is simple and free. Join the CJ-3B Bulletin Board! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| Bending Shift Stick; 17.06 Gearshift | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 17 2009, 07:50 AM (751 Views) | |
| johnrb | Mar 17 2009, 07:50 AM Post #1 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
I have a small problem. I'm 6' tall (long legs) and my knee tends to hit the steering wheel as I move from gas to brake. When in 1st or 3rd, the transmission stick is so close to the wheel that there isn't room for my knee to move up between them. Is the shift stick malleable enough that I can cold bend it a little bit? I only need 2 or 3 inches to the right at the top to give me knee clearance. Is there the potential to do damage to the shift forks, etc if I stress the stick too much while bending? I have a pipe bender that would minimize that. Anybody done this? By the way, my Dad was an artillery forward observer in WWII and his Jeep driver was over 6' tall. Dad says he drove with his knees above the wheel! I've read that the older Jeeps were even smaller in the driver area than the 3B - that the driver seat was moved back in the 3A and back even more in the 3B to accommodate taller drivers. |
|
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago 1946 2A - now I have one older than me 1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles 1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing 1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future past Willys 1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box past addiction - VW 1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Mar 17 2009, 10:32 AM Post #2 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
I believe the tower lever is mild steel. So bending is not a critical issue. You can bend the lever cold but bending with the addition of heat will be better. Heat to a dull to medium red then bend as much as you want. A low heat source such as a plumbers propane torch might suffice. If you decide to bend it down low within about 6 inches of the shift tower you will want to use an oxy-acetylene torch so that you can heat the lever more quickly. After bending take some of the heat back out by use of a soaking wet rag so that the heat does not transfer down into the tower area. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| Larry (TX) | Mar 17 2009, 12:20 PM Post #3 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
John, Regarding your comment on the driver's compartment of a WWII jeep, you're right on target. The MB's and GPW's were/are probably the MOST uncomfortable jeeps ever to roll off an assembly line, (see my reply to you in the "spring" post). I've got one of the finest restored '42 MB's around, but lately, I've been having many thoughts of selling it because it's just too danged uncomfortable to drive, even for the duration of a July 4th or Christmas parade. An MVPA cross country convoy, from Washington, D.C. to Los Angeles, CA is coming up in only a month or so and many owners are planning to drive their vintage MB's and GPW's on that trip. I'm talking guys that are well into their 60's, and these jeeps were built for use by 18 to 25 year old's. I can't even imagine of what these guys are thinking and my rear end hurts just thinking about a trip around the block in a WWII jeep. Larry S. |
|
Larry Steed Pearland, Texas '53 Willys CJ3B '52 Willys M38 '86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer) M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.) M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer | |
![]() |
|
| jyotin | Mar 17 2009, 05:44 PM Post #4 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
I'd think that if I was going to use a torch, I'd remove the shift lever from the jeep transmission first. If and when the transmission oil decides to come alight it should burn for quite some time... You could experiment with cutting the shift lever and modifying it from the stub - that is what Ford did on some of their T-18 transmissions. As long as you kept a 'spare' shift tower which is original for use when you sell the jeep you will be fine. |
|
It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today. 54 - 3B - down on the farm 67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green | |
![]() |
|
| ewilson | Mar 18 2009, 07:45 PM Post #5 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
Pretty easy to remove the top cover and lever, heat applied as indicated can damage things behind the work. I'm planning on adding a tilt steering wheel soon because I'm 6'2" with severe back problems. Simply too big for a flat fender. Ed |
| WIRE PALADIN SAN FRANCISCO | |
![]() |
|
| « Previous Topic · CJ-3B Posts · Next Topic » |



![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)




7:49 PM Jul 10