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| Transmission Removal; GROUP 17 TRANSMISSION | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 19 2009, 05:12 AM (608 Views) | |
| hydratour | Mar 19 2009, 05:12 AM Post #1 |
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i want to repair the transmission is it possible to loose only the 4 bolts that hold it to the bell housing or how is the best way to do it? i am a electrician not a mecanic like i say to my wife, i can do almost anything but i wont paint . thank you for any response. |
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| Bob | Mar 19 2009, 08:20 AM Post #2 |
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I could be wrong, but I think you have to removes the bell housing in order to remove the transmission. It'll make it easier to put back together plus you can take a look at your clutch components while you're there. |
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Bob 1953 CJ3B 1965(?) CJ5 1949 Jeepster 1947 Cj2A 2004 Kubota l3400 | |
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| Rus Curtis | Mar 19 2009, 08:43 AM Post #3 |
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I once attempted to remove the transmission from the bell housing as you described. I'm glad I didn't. As you know, the crossmember will have to be removed and the engine/bellhousing braced. The trans and transfer together are heavy and awkward when under the vehicle. I suppose a wheeled jack or dolly could be used to assist with removal but alignment during assembly will be difficult. I've read about pulling the entire drive train ( engine, bellhousing trans/transf) using a hoist. I like this idea as you can get the entire assembly out and away from the vehicle to get at each component and are able to take your time to inspect and re-align everything prior to putting it back. If I'm required to repair anything (including clutch replacement) I'm strongly leaning towards pulling everything. I'd be interesting to see what others think. |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| jyotin | Mar 19 2009, 02:40 PM Post #4 |
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If you are going to pull the engine to replace the clutch, then there is no reason to take the transmission too. I'd split it at the bell housing/engine point. I usually use a crowbar to help get the two apart. Be careful with that plate that goes between the engine and bell housing. It wants to wobble back and forth, and could act like a scissors if you got your fingers in there. I have lifted the whole shebang before, but it is awkward at best, and when I did it the body tub was off. The whole clutch process is a lot easier when one pulls the engine in my opinion. Especially when it comes to re-assembly. Reassembly could be a little tricky if one removed the trans from the bell housing. You still have to get that throwout bearing fork and cable installed --- but it can only be installed when the transmission is in there. |
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It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today. 54 - 3B - down on the farm 67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green | |
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| gearwrencher | Mar 19 2009, 04:31 PM Post #5 |
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I have made a adapter block that bolts to my flore jack and T-90 transmission, works great!! have done it twice now on two of my Jeeps, by myslef no help, Yes Bell housing needs to be seperated from engine. Clutch forke gets in the way if you try to seprate transmission from bell housing. Jerry |
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| ewilson | Mar 19 2009, 05:49 PM Post #6 |
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I agree, I've tried fighting the gear boxes from the bottom, expletive deleted! I want mention, everyone probably already knows, it's much easier to remove the motor mounts first when pulling the engine to take the bell housing loose as well as re-assembly. It gives good access to those bolts on the upper side. Happy Trails, Ed |
| WIRE PALADIN SAN FRANCISCO | |
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7:49 PM Jul 10