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57 3b 12v Delco Alternator - Unusual ?; 15.01A Alternator
Topic Started: Mar 29 2009, 12:03 PM (1,753 Views)
yjcanibul
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in a related topic the question of when 3B's were converted to 12v came up

my serial# was thought to be after the factory went to 12v, but it looks like the
conversion was much later - therefore in looking at mine more closely ( it is 12v
now ) I can see the generator bracket and I find an AC/Delco alternator thats hooked up nothing like the single wire conversions on the 3B page ...

the wire loom going to the altenator looks to be cloth and old, a picture of the hookup is below ...

anyone seen this before ?


Posted Image


Randy
constantly in search of answers :)
57 3B : big speedo / Hurricane / YF 938 SD / IAY-4012 / T90 / D18 / 5.375 final drive / open diffs / Firestone 6ply Military NDCC / 12v Delco SI alt / Kayline Top / venting windshield / tub patched / "still fixing leaks one at a time"

89 wrangler : h/duty axles + 5spd / 200+hp 4.2L / arb locked / multiport fuel inj / warn hubs+winch / 1/4 mil km / fishing+trail riding / gets me to work
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Bob
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Bob
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I have two jeeps and a tractor. My 3B has a "one wire" alternator setup, my '48 beater and my tractor both have a setup like this one. The wire going to the bat terminal from the plug serves to "excite" the alternator, the other one going into the harness either goes to a guage or an "idiot light." Either way charges your battery. I like the three wire setup a bit better as you can go to autozone and pick up a delco alternator for a few bucks. If you have the 1 wire, you have to take it to an alternator shop to get the self-excite feature done.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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Randyb
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Randyb
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Bob,

Can you elaborate a little more on the one wire alternator? I'm having a small issue with mine right now. When I got the Jeep (53 3B) it had already been converted to 12V. It was a very poor job with the wiring like spaghetti and all the same color. With very little of the electrical devices working this made it very hard to trace anything. Well, I ripped it all out and installed a new wiring harness from Walck's. It had a 12V generator that didn't fit and wobbled when the engine was running so I went to a one wire alternator. Here's my problem, the amp gauge always shows negative yet the alternator is charging. I have 14.5 V at the battery even when the headlights are on. One feller told me I had it hooked up backwards but it goes more negative when I turn the lights on. If it was working backwards I would think it would goes towards positive when I turn on the lights. I have the hot side to the positive post and from the negative post the wiring goes on to the accessories. I didn't take it to a shop to have the exciter activated and like I said, it is charging. Anyway, I am a little perplexed with this thing but at least it is charging. Any help or advice would be appreciated. By the way, it is a new gauge.
Randy Baker
Winters, CA
1953 CJ3B
1952 M38
1977 CJ5
Flat Fender Dodge Power Wagons
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yjcanibul
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thanks Bob, didnt really see much on the 3B page about this

looks like mine was setup that way along time ago - like the idea of a cheap alt

along the same lines as RandyB got a bit of what looks like household speaker wire in my wiring harness in places and at some point might replace the whole thing ..

but - I'm afraid to just snip and install cause of these improvements - so no doubt a detailed hand drawn schematic will be in order so I can bastardize the new wiring harness just enough so it behaves ...

RandyB , do you have trouble with any other 6v guages going to 12v ?
57 3B : big speedo / Hurricane / YF 938 SD / IAY-4012 / T90 / D18 / 5.375 final drive / open diffs / Firestone 6ply Military NDCC / 12v Delco SI alt / Kayline Top / venting windshield / tub patched / "still fixing leaks one at a time"

89 wrangler : h/duty axles + 5spd / 200+hp 4.2L / arb locked / multiport fuel inj / warn hubs+winch / 1/4 mil km / fishing+trail riding / gets me to work
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Randyb
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yjcanibul,

My Jeep was already converted to 12V when I got it. I don't know what the guy that converted it changed as far as gauges. The oil pressure and amp guage were both working. The gas gauge, temp gauge and speedometer where not working. Since I had to replace all but two, I just replaced them all so they would all be new.
When I purchased the new gas gauge Carl at Walck's told me that the 6V sending unit should work with 12V but the 6V gas gauge wouldn't. I had to replace the sending unit also but when I took out the old one and played with it a while, I got it to work. But, since I already had the new one I installed it.

Good luck with your project,
Randy Baker
Winters, CA
1953 CJ3B
1952 M38
1977 CJ5
Flat Fender Dodge Power Wagons
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COPPERSWILLY
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Copperswilly
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I have a one wire setup in my 54 3b and it works fine. I installed it myself. The pictuire above is wired correctly at the alternator but without seeing where the hot wire goes I can't help you there. The hot wire should go to the positive side of the battery or the positive side of the starter solenoid. The other terminal on the alternator can be wired to your voltage gauge. When you run a 12 volt system on a 6 volt vehicle you should put a ballast resister in your distributors hot wire so your points don't burn out. The ballast resister slows the current to the points and keeps them from frying. I can send pics of my setup and or post them on here
Chris .... MD
54 cj3b OIIIIIO
62 cj3b OIIIIIO
74 cj5. OllllllO
49 Bantam TC3
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COPPERSWILLY
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Here's a couple of my onewire setup...I'll add more when I get them


Posted Image

Posted Image
Chris .... MD
54 cj3b OIIIIIO
62 cj3b OIIIIIO
74 cj5. OllllllO
49 Bantam TC3
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yjcanibul
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great pics CoppersWilly - your alt looks fairly new

so the 3 wire doesnt seem to be much different than the 1 wire setup as far as wiring goes ...

I did a quick trace and my red wire on alt ( original picture ) comes out at starter solenoid , the other wire at alt goes through firewall so it is most likely going to my idiot light

Posted Image

do the delco alt's usually have an easy way to tell output ...

Randy
57 3B : big speedo / Hurricane / YF 938 SD / IAY-4012 / T90 / D18 / 5.375 final drive / open diffs / Firestone 6ply Military NDCC / 12v Delco SI alt / Kayline Top / venting windshield / tub patched / "still fixing leaks one at a time"

89 wrangler : h/duty axles + 5spd / 200+hp 4.2L / arb locked / multiport fuel inj / warn hubs+winch / 1/4 mil km / fishing+trail riding / gets me to work
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Bob
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MMM, my 1 wire setup truly has just one wire, going from the alternator to the battery via the starter (if I remember correctly) There is an internal setup in there somewhere that excites the alternator. It used to excite at 1,000 rpm, but a guy at the alternator shop knocked that down to about idle speed for me. I can't quite remember how the gauges are wired in but the power should come in on the positive side of the amp gauge.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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ewilson
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I also have the one wire alternator on my '54. This type has an internal voltage regulator which needs to be bumped up to around 1000 RPM out of the box for the regulator to activate and charge.

An issue I had was getting the alternator pully the correct diameter. If this is too large, it requires higher RPM to activate the regulator and produce the proper voltage.

I suspect most OTC units would benefit from a pully change for our use. Smaller diameter pullies that also use the 5/8" Jeep V-belt are available from the better speed shops. I use one after having problems with the "as provided" pullies.

Ed
WIRE PALADIN SAN FRANCISCO
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Bruce W
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yjcanibul, if in deed the small wire goes to your idiot light, as it should, you will have an instant "excitement", unlike the one-wire guys who have to rev their engine to get their alternator to start. You also have a warning device that they don't have. BW
Bruce Walker
Northeast Colorado
'53 CJ3B "Nellybelle", '48 CJ2A "Uncle Lyndon", '47 CJ2A "Teddy", '47 CJ2A "Rusty", '47 CJ2A "Zak", '43 GPW "Sarge", '88 XJ "Pluto"
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yjcanibul
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I'll trace the other wire - my idiot light works in that it glows red when you initially turn the key then goes out when its running

never gave it much thought as thats how modern jeeps work during startup

will give my ignition switch a closer look too - my keys are stamped CAT - do not duplicate - (catapillar heavy equipment) so its most likely out of a tractor or dozer ...

the info in this thread will save me much frustration down the road as it seems I will for sure want to preserve this setup in a future 12v wire harness ...

Randy
57 3B : big speedo / Hurricane / YF 938 SD / IAY-4012 / T90 / D18 / 5.375 final drive / open diffs / Firestone 6ply Military NDCC / 12v Delco SI alt / Kayline Top / venting windshield / tub patched / "still fixing leaks one at a time"

89 wrangler : h/duty axles + 5spd / 200+hp 4.2L / arb locked / multiport fuel inj / warn hubs+winch / 1/4 mil km / fishing+trail riding / gets me to work
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COPPERSWILLY
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Copperswilly
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Mine is a true one wire right now I don't have the idiot light hooked up because of the loose nut behind the wheel. I had my alternator rebuilt before I installed it the second time. I think it's been in my jeep for 10 yrs?. I can take more pics of my setup for you guys if you need them.

When you do one just make sure your positive wire goes to the positive terminal on the battery or if you want a cleaner look feed it down to the stater solenoid (mines on the firewall). The other wire can go to your idiot light and volt gauge. I took that all out of mine when I swapped in a new dash, cowl and firewall. I just started putting my gauges back in now. I have a small plate with a ton of stuff on it
Chris .... MD
54 cj3b OIIIIIO
62 cj3b OIIIIIO
74 cj5. OllllllO
49 Bantam TC3
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