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| Advice Needed On Painting A 3b; Advice needed on painting a 3B | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 1 2009, 02:20 PM (2,459 Views) | |
| North Carolina Nick | Sep 11 2009, 05:42 PM Post #16 |
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Here is my 2 cents on painting a Jeep. I just finished painting mine and should have photos and story up in a few weeks. I have about $900.00 in it. It took alot of elbow grease and the help of a good friend who knows how to paint. He had all the equipment. In reality you can mess the whole job up an almost any point. First, don't take any short cuts. It will show in the finished product. Plan on several weeks of stripping, several weeks of body work, a few days to prime and paint. and a few more weeks to put it all back together. I realize this sound mildly painful, which it was. I can assure you that it will be worth it. The panels on my jeep are as straight or straighter than the day she rolled off the assembly line. The board is a great spot to get help so use it. If you have an questions, e-mail me @ tsigounis@earthlink.net. I am also on Facebook with my jeep as my photo. Good Luck NC Nick |
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| Tom in RI | Sep 17 2009, 09:15 PM Post #17 |
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And my 2 cents. I dont paint professionally and I never got any training but I have sprayed a '68 Camaro, 2 jeeps, 2 landcruisers and my daily driver S-10. I still have the jeeps and S-10. The guy who has the camaro (I never should have sold it) says it still looks great 20 years later. So, if I can do it, you can. I have a 2HP compressor of 80's vintage, a knockoff binks #7 gun and also have been fooling with HLP guns. Paints have changed through the years and are getting expensive. There are 2 places in Rhode Island that I now go to for supplies. If you use the "house brands" you can save some money. Prep is key. Sanding and smoothing and removing crud is important. Paint does not hide anything. In the Northeast and if your going to be on the salty beaches its a good idea to use epoxy primer. I used U-Tech primer on my S-10 and M38 and it has held back the salt air well (the S-10 sits outside). For paint you can cover the epoxy with anything from old skool acrylic enamel to urethane. Remember you cannot put catalyzed paints over uncatalyzed primers. You have to be VERY careful of the fumes though. The catalyzed paints will kill you. I was doing enough painting that I picked up a Hobby Air fresh air system but if you set yourself up with some good venting you can get away with a real respirator. But respect the paint - its nasty. Solid colors can come in single stage so you dont have to recoat with clear. So if you can talk yourself into doing it yourself DO IT. Jeeps are foregiving. If you mess up you can fix it. Even better, in a few years if you have a ding or rust bubble, YOU can fix it and you don't have to take it to a body shop. You may want to check out some of the all in one kits that are online (let me know if you cant find them in a search) where they sell a gallon of paint, primers, thinners all in a box shipped to your door. The colors are limited but the price is less all separate. Last comment - if you pick a color like black, red, yellow white you can probably get it in gallons from a paint supplier as a standard color and not custom mix. That makes getting more paint easy at repair time. Im near Newport, RI so if you want to compare notes more let me know. Tom |
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| jyotin | Sep 19 2009, 09:17 AM Post #18 |
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Whoever said that prep work is important was dead on right! The painting is the easy part. Frankly the prep work is absolutely key to getting the finish coat on right. A good prep job can make up for a not-as-good finish coat. You might be able to save by using a Scheib or MAACO paint job -- after you do all the prep work yourself. Remember that the paint that is already on your jeep can make an outstanding primer for a finish coat. Don't try to sand it all down to bare metal. FIRST, wash the jeep with some high quality soap. This'll get off old wax, road haze, and anything else that you don't want to be on the surface when it is painted. Next, get a high quality breathing mask and install some HEPA filters on it -- that old paint has lead in it for sure. I use a full face mask because the dust bothers my eyes. Patch and sand and prime the bad spots; you can use some POR15 on the bottom and in all the seams. After that you could shoot some rattle can primer over the POR15. You can also buy rattle can sealers to spray on all seams and then cover the sealer with some more rattle can primer. Sand the whole jeep down to take off rough spots and to scuff all the paint or primer. If something is shiny then it hasn't been sanded enough. When you are happy with the prep work you have done, rinse it off and dry one more time and cart it down to the paint shop and have them shoot it for you. It is sorta like installing carpet. You can put a cheap carpet in a room and have it work just fine as long as you install a high grade padding under it. |
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It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today. 54 - 3B - down on the farm 67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green | |
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7:53 PM Jul 10