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Clutch Witdh
Topic Started: Oct 11 2009, 05:28 PM (481 Views)
hydratour
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i am in a engine rebuilt and i was wondering if my clutch is to thinand or if i has to change it, i did notice that it was slipping a little bit when starting in a hill, what is the width of the clutch?better to change it anyway? it is oily from the motor,
i didn't find anyinformations in the site or i did'nt search enough?someone could give me a hint. thank you

engine as been rebuilt before with .010 on the crankshafft and the piston as .030 stamp on it .is it right to continue the rebuilt. the crankshaft as to be grind another .010,oil pump seem to be in the clearance, motor was'nt smoking, so if somebodydid rebuilt what is my options thank you from quebec canada
love the site
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jyotin
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If you have the jeep this far apart you really oughta replace the clutch, PP and throwout bearing.

You don't want to take this apart again. It is a false economhy not to replace the clutch hardware. It is also very easy with the engine out....

If you have an 8 inch clutch, don't think you can upgrade to a 9 inch clutch unless you have the correct pre-drilled holes in the flywheel.

If you have a 3B you probably don't have the holes for a 9 inch clutch.

good luck

j
It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today.
54 - 3B - down on the farm
67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green
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oldtime
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hydratour,

Since the pistons are marked .030 over; then it must have been previously rebuilt.
The cylinders should have all been tested for compression prior to head removal.
That would indicate the bore condition for each cylinder.

All bores will need to be visually inspected then "miked" to determine the bore diameter.
Generally most normal wear will occur on the #1 bore due to the coolant flow design.
You must re-hone and re-ring if the pistons are removed from their bores.
If removed, you might get by with a re-hone of the cylinders if the bore checks out good.
Do not re-bore beyond .060 over standard unless you want a racing engine. (short service life)

Since the head is off you should inspect the block for cracks first thing.
Give it a special focused observation between the # 2 and # 3 exhaust valves.

.020 under crank mains should be O.K. Don't forget to inspect the crankshaft rear seal face.
The leaking rear main seal must be repaired or clutch slippage will get worse.
The clutch assembly generally is replaced as it is beyond the scope for most to adequately inspect / rebuild .
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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