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| What paint for rims? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 27 2011, 07:54 AM (548 Views) | |
| rcolijn | Aug 27 2011, 07:54 AM Post #1 |
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The Willys Workshop
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Resoraton is coming along niceley, today I painted the frame and axles POR15, its looking good after spending ages sandblasting but it was worth it. So I am blasting the rims now, I think I'll spray them same as the body, but I was wondering if that would be a different paint or would be the same? Also, I was wondering what you do with all the nuts and bolts. I am planning on re-using as much as I can, but do you have to paint them, wouldnt they look a bit silly and shiny on all the new painted stuff:) wht do you guys do, sandblasted them? Just clean them? Thanks guys! |
| 1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more! | |
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| oldtime | Aug 27 2011, 10:23 AM Post #2 |
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MODERATOR
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My Jeeps have most all of the original bolts, nuts, etc. First thing is to do all repairs like hammering flat washers back flat and retapping the threads on bolts and nuts. For cleaning the best thing is to bead blast small parts in a cabinet blaster. Washers and nuts can be strung on a wire. Also various wire wheels attached to a drill press works very well for cleaning. Muriatic acid is an easy way to dissolve rust but it will also eat off any plating. Don't leave parts in muriatic acid too long and wash off with water. Then dry them off immidiately with air and heat. Even still they can surface rust very easily. I only use muriatic acid outdoors inside a closed plastic container well away from any metal objects. Use a magnet to pull parts out of the acid. Electro plating would be ideal for many bolts, ect. But I generally prime mine with a high quality etch primer. I then cover the threads both internal and external with masking before top coating because you don't want much paint buildup on the threads. Lastly I coat the threads with Aluminum Anti-Seize compound. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| Galen | Aug 27 2011, 07:20 PM Post #3 |
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Member
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I powder coated my rims white as think they go with any body color - in my case transport yellow. |
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1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow- 1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon 1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military 1967 Plymouth Valiant Culpeper, VA | |
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| rcolijn | Aug 27 2011, 08:06 PM Post #4 |
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The Willys Workshop
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oldtime: Thanks for the extensive advice, I only have a "big" sandblaster so will either buy a cabinet or make myself one, I have 2 old baths laying arround It sounds like a lot of work but it'll probably be worth it. (money as well as restoration value). I also thought about the anti seize stuff, good idea too, cleaning the thread will be a good idea (which thread sizes should I buy for MOST bolts?). washer will be a bit of work so I'll probably buy a whole load of new ones, also a bit nervous about springwasher being worn out. We are planning on doing the Canning stock route next year (lots of corrugated roads) so I'd like to have all bolts properly in place!. Or maybe I'll simpy bolt them into place and then spend a day "touching up" the heads with the color of which part they are in (like Ford Blue for the engine and driveline, and black for frame, and body color for the body bolts. Does that sounds like a good idea? Galen: Thanks for your reply, I havent made my mind up about the color but am thinking about either the original green (see http://www.thewillysworkshop.com) or the blue grey they painted over it. Both colors kinda like ask for black rims I am thinking. I agree white is going with anything, but I'd have a black frame and bumpers, than a coloured body and white rims, talk about carnival lol. Would like to see some picture though, as the yellow sounds good looking! |
| 1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more! | |
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It sounds like a lot of work but it'll probably be worth it. (money as well as restoration value). I also thought about the anti seize stuff, good idea too, cleaning the thread will be a good idea (which thread sizes should I buy for MOST bolts?). washer will be a bit of work so I'll probably buy a whole load of new ones, also a bit nervous about springwasher being worn out. We are planning on doing the Canning stock route next year (lots of corrugated roads) so I'd like to have all bolts properly in place!.
7:40 PM Jul 10