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| 3B hood welting kit | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 28 2011, 06:37 PM (2,313 Views) | |
| jeeper50 | Aug 28 2011, 06:37 PM Post #1 |
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ol' skool jeeper jeff
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I'm in the process of doing some much over due painting and jeep stuff. I need some hood welting so my newly painted hood and grill. Looking for welting in a kit but buy the foot would work too. Who'd y'all use? |
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In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck '53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt... | |
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| bobster | Aug 28 2011, 06:41 PM Post #2 |
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waulks (sp) |
| Bobster 1953 CJ 3B | |
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| j54mitsu | Aug 28 2011, 07:39 PM Post #3 |
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I've bought this and it fits great. It's a pain to squish the rivets (bend the tabs out), perhaps there's a trick... http://walcks4wd.com/top-of-grill-welt-with-rivets-1177.html |
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Ryan in Central/Northern Virginia 1976 trans-make Mitsubishi J54: Licensed CJ-3B clone, 4DR5 4cyl 2.7L Biodiesel (isolated & heated SVO fuel system), 24V, 4spd, Dana 18 twin stick clone, Dana 25 & 44 clone 5.375 R&P, Front with Lock-Right and disc brakes, Rear 11" drum brakes, Warn lockout hubs, 12V converter for accessories, US style taillights, MB/M38 HD diff cover, Swing out tailgate, K&N air filter, Bestop Tiger Top. | |
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| Don | Aug 28 2011, 07:59 PM Post #4 |
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I went to the military surplus store and bought 50 feet of 1" wide nylon strap for $15. I used it for the hood welting and the fender welting. I also made my hood strap. I'm going back to try and find some buckles to make straps to use the footman hoops in the cargo area. I fastened the hood welt in place with pop rivets with a washer on top of the webbing. Not original, but works nicely. |
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Don Norris Southeast, NC 1953 CJ3B 1959 Jeep Pickup 195? M100 trailer ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The trail never ends ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ If lovin' Jeeps is wrong, I don't wanta be right. | |
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| Doug | Aug 28 2011, 09:00 PM Post #5 |
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Meridian, Idaho
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I used the welting from Walcks. The problem is those cursed rivets that come with it. I was unable to get them to tighten down. Someone on the old Bulletin Board once posted a link to a site that had what appeared to be the original clips (at least what I think are original because both of my jeeps had them) that held the welting in place. I saved the link way back then and just spent a half hour looking through all my favorites and can't find it. Maybe someone else remembers it and can share it again. It must have been a hundred page pdf document with pages and pages of miscellaneous hardware. I just did some more searching and HERE is such a catalog, but I don't think it's the same one. On page 12 of the catalog, part number 2402 looks very similar to the clips that I have attaching the welting to my jeeps grille. Of course I don't know that you'll want 100 of them.... <_< |
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1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator 1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18 2004 TW 200 | |
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| j54mitsu | Aug 28 2011, 11:33 PM Post #6 |
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Also, there's a guy locally with a 2a that used old bike inner tube and office supply fasteners. I think he heard about it on the 2a page. Here is his pic:
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Ryan in Central/Northern Virginia 1976 trans-make Mitsubishi J54: Licensed CJ-3B clone, 4DR5 4cyl 2.7L Biodiesel (isolated & heated SVO fuel system), 24V, 4spd, Dana 18 twin stick clone, Dana 25 & 44 clone 5.375 R&P, Front with Lock-Right and disc brakes, Rear 11" drum brakes, Warn lockout hubs, 12V converter for accessories, US style taillights, MB/M38 HD diff cover, Swing out tailgate, K&N air filter, Bestop Tiger Top. | |
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| Rus Curtis | Aug 29 2011, 08:59 AM Post #7 |
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Yes! There are several tricks to get the rivets to set. Walck's sells a tool for $30 http://walcks4wd.com/rivit-crimp-tool.html (I'm sure it was developed from articles written on fabricating this tool as I have pictures of it from way back - copied from posts on g503). Also on g503 you can search in the Message Board for topics such as welt rivets. One additional post I picked up on that I liked was by Rob here: http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t...+rivets#p268485 where he uses a simple hex nut to flare the rivets. I'm sure other options exist - with a bit of ingenuity. |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| Parker29 | Aug 29 2011, 11:29 AM Post #8 |
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PWells
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Doug, Here are a couple pic's of the hood welt on my 63 3b. I am not sure if it is original, it looks like it could be. The fasteners look like the ones on page 12 in the W&E Sales catalog, and would be very easy to install. ![]()
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PMW Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains Early 54 CJ3B OB | |
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| jeepdan | Aug 29 2011, 02:14 PM Post #9 |
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Those are the same fasteners that I found on my 64 before the restoration. I used the brass rivets from Walk's instead because I did not know where to find the OEM type. |
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Dan Walton Jr. Wheeling, WV 1964 U.S. Army CJ3B ( pride and joy) 1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 (my newest pride and joy) 2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU- Black Bear Edition (daily driver) 91 Grand Wagoneer (in storage) Two 56 Willys pickups (one, restoration started, never finished) 1966 M416 1/4 Ton trailer | |
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| Parker29 | Aug 29 2011, 03:10 PM Post #10 |
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PWells
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My 53 3b project jeep has the same type welt with the split leg rivet fasteners. Apparently Willys changed fasteners at some point. |
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PMW Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains Early 54 CJ3B OB | |
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| williams3b54 | Aug 29 2011, 04:54 PM Post #11 |
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Williams3B54
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On my 54 HH I went to the junk yard and cut the serpentine belt off of a SHO Ford. The cogs are up on the radiator/ grill frame and are fastened down with pop rivets. I know it is not original, but everbody that has seen it says what a neat idea. I don't think I gave more than a buck for the belt. I have noticed after 7 yrs. that the belt has rubbed the paint off from under the hood where it rests on the belt. No biggie. I have also glued some of the belting on the sides of the cowl where the hood rubs the cowl, that works too. Dick W. |
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1954 CJ-3B Semi-modified for trail riding in the Northwest. See photos on CJ-3B page owners photos 1954. 1968 CJ-5/1975 231 odd fire V-6/ many other mods. ordered new from Toledo 1968. | |
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| Larry (TX) | Aug 29 2011, 05:16 PM Post #12 |
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Jeff, 1/8" X 3/8" or 1/2" long (sorry, I can't remember which) aluminum large head pop rivets & washers is what I use to secure the welting and it has always worked well; (stainless rivets from a marine supply would be even better!). The rivet gun I use just barely fits under the indention on the grill at the fenders for the last rivet on either side. Had I known all along that Carl sells a split rivet tool for the brass rivets that usually come with the welting, I'd have most likely bought one by now, ha! |
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Larry Steed Pearland, Texas '53 Willys CJ3B '52 Willys M38 '86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer) M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.) M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer | |
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| bobster | Aug 29 2011, 09:50 PM Post #13 |
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gop buy stainless pop rivets from westlakes and a pop rivet tool and use that |
| Bobster 1953 CJ 3B | |
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| j54mitsu | Aug 29 2011, 11:52 PM Post #14 |
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It's a shame it takes a specialized tool to install something so basic. Seems abnormal for jeep world. Maybe threaten the rivets with a BFH and they'll bend on their own accord? It took real care to not scratch my paint, but after many failed tools from my arsenal I used the one on the right: ![]() Take a screw driver and twist to get a small separation of the legs. Then put the more flat part of the pliers on the top of the rivet and let the dog legged part of the pliers encompass the lip of the grill. Grab each leg at a time. It worked fine, only one rivet is a tad loose. |
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Ryan in Central/Northern Virginia 1976 trans-make Mitsubishi J54: Licensed CJ-3B clone, 4DR5 4cyl 2.7L Biodiesel (isolated & heated SVO fuel system), 24V, 4spd, Dana 18 twin stick clone, Dana 25 & 44 clone 5.375 R&P, Front with Lock-Right and disc brakes, Rear 11" drum brakes, Warn lockout hubs, 12V converter for accessories, US style taillights, MB/M38 HD diff cover, Swing out tailgate, K&N air filter, Bestop Tiger Top. | |
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| Duffer | Aug 30 2011, 03:29 PM Post #15 |
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I bought my last welting kit from Willys Overland. My 3B had the split steel rivits and they looked the same as the ones in the kit. These are also available from McMaster-Carr (97351A765), nickel plated steel. I too had some installation problems. I also had a pair of nippers with a broken jaw. I welded up an anvil on the broken side and it set the rivits very snug, without removing the grill. ![]() ![]()
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John, SW Montana 55 CJ 3B, transmake, fiberglass/aluminum tub/hood/fenders, 381 sbc, AGE M22W trans, "super" D18/Teralows & Warn OD, D44/ARB/Dutchman front & full float D44/Powrloc rear axles-4.10's, Holbrook springs, 4 wheel power discs, Saginaw PS, Warn 8274 68 CJ5, stock 225, T86AA, D18w/ Warn OD, D27A & stock D44 (heavy duty housing)-4.88's, 11" brakes, stock Ross box, Belleview 6000 (a close to stock vehicle, including the Whitco top) | |
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