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| paint; Advice on painting | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 17 2012, 04:53 PM (942 Views) | |
| jking | May 17 2012, 04:53 PM Post #1 |
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Hello guys! First post for me after reading through many of the prior. Thanks for all that accumulated knowledge. I'm pretty much in the same situation as goose - attacking my first full restoration (frame off). I'm getting my body back from the sandblasting shop next week. It's primed and ready for me to do some welding and finishing before painting. Can anyone give me an idea of where to get some good automotive paint and how much will I need. I really like the Pacific Blue from '53 as shown in the KW catalog. Is there a better way to get it matched than using the color on the printed page? Thanks in advance John |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| jyotin | May 17 2012, 05:13 PM Post #2 |
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There are three things that are important in painting a vehicle. 1) prep work 2) prep work 3) prep work Your paint job cannot look better than your prep work. Any dimple, dent, or other imperfection will show in the finished job. An extra few days prepping the surface will be well worth your time. Regarding quantity of paint -- go for at least a quart and even better, a half gallon more than you think you need. The paint vendor will claim he can prepare another quart the same color, but he can't. It'll be marginally different and apparent. The color will be affected by dye lots, different mixers, different mixing equipment, weather, whatever color was last mixed, etc. If you get a gallon and a quart, be sure to mix the quart with the gallon so that it'll be only one color. Spraying the paint takes a little technique, but spraying is only a small part of the finished product. The spray gun does not have to be a $1,000 deluxe model. Harbor Freight guns work well. I like two stage -- clear coat/base coat paints rather than enamels.. With the base coat I like to first spray all the hard to get areas (all thouse corners and edges that want extra attention) -- usually with a touch up gun, and then go over the whole thing with a regular gun for a nice base coat. I don't wait for the paint to dry, I just switch guns and do the base coat right over the whole thing. I think one gets better and more uniform coverage that way. Any second coat of base coat I don't give the hard-to-reach areas any special treatment. Depending on my mood I'll do the same thing with clear coat. Wear a full face mask - no compromises on this one. If you use only a mask, then all those paint esthers flow right into your eyes. It is easier than you think, just don't short circuit the prep work. j |
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It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today. 54 - 3B - down on the farm 67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green | |
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| oldtime | May 17 2012, 06:37 PM Post #3 |
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jking, Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board ! For me sandblasting is nearly the final preparation. I do virtually all the preparation work before taking anything to the sandblaster. Let's say that you sand smooth on an area. The final sandblasting will rough up everything uniformly. The uniform roughing hides all repairs and allows the primer to achieve maximum grip. When I get the parts back from the blaster they get a thorough cleaning around the small missed areas. They are air blown clean and then are primed the very next day before any rust can occur. The paint topcoat is usually spayed on the day after priming. I do not sand between coats. I don't care about perfect smooth and pretty. I care about protection from corrosion. The paint brand you choose will be effected by your location. Many rebuilders like the Southern Polyuerthane Industries paint (SPI paints). But that brand is not even available in my area. You'll need to choose from whatever brands are locally available. Just a few hours ago I bought 2 gallons of Dupont Nason Ful-Poxy primer and catylist. I have not used the Nason epoxy primer before. I will also be top coating with Nason paint. About 10 years ago I used to prime with Dupont Corlar primer. But Corlars gotten way too expensive nowdays and no longer available in small quart sizes. Gallons only ! I topcoated a complete 3B body, fenders, hood and all from top to bottom along with a Koenig half cab. That project took exactly 1 full gallon of topcoat. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| Bob_webber | May 17 2012, 08:53 PM Post #4 |
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if you are looking for pretty, you absolutely cannot rush the body work. a long straight edge will give you an idea with what you are looking at. this is the process i will be executing on my jeep. sandblast, prime. da sand areas to fill with 80 grit, spread lightweight body filler (i would recomend evercoat chroma-lite) sand filler with 36 BEFORE IT HARDENS. 36 grit is for straightening and shaping filler. after hardened sand filler with 80 grit. then we will spread a polyester glaze, this will be sanded with 80, then 150, then 320. a good powdered guide coat will be helpful to show low spots. you will now spray a good high build 2k primer, proceed to sand with 600 to 800 now spray the sealer, then use topcoat of choice i would suggest getting a good set of dura blocks, remember if your dent is 2" long you will want to use at least a 4" block good luck, i look forward to seeing pictures
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53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was bob, north east Ohio | |
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| rcolijn | May 18 2012, 01:54 AM Post #5 |
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The Willys Workshop
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My 5 cents worth (as I am not very experienced and in my first resto too) I have used POR15 for frame, engine, axles, driveline etc. No primier required just a very through clean when it cames back from sandblsting. They have different colors so my frame is simple black but engine and driveline blue. Its a little bit more expensive but tough as and you can bend it! Have not tackled the body yet (not brave enough:)) See The Willys Workshop for war stories (which reminds me need to update it:) |
| 1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more! | |
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| Galen | May 18 2012, 05:36 AM Post #6 |
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I used NAPA acrylic enamel but even with hardener it stays "soft" for a long time. You cant wax it for 6 months after application. Dupont Imron and those sorts of paint are very expensive so i went with what I used- time will tell. |
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1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow- 1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon 1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military 1967 Plymouth Valiant Culpeper, VA | |
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| jking | May 18 2012, 07:34 AM Post #7 |
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jyotin - you reminded me of one the early lessons I learned on this project - don't rush it. One, rushing takes the fun out of it and two, you can get sloppy. The second point learned when I buried a seal puller in my palm. I've done some body work in my youth on the small fleet of cars in disrepair that my father kept adding to. However, this will be my first time attempting to really complete a nice result. I appreciate you providing your technique and safety tip. Oldtime - I figured the sandblasting was out of sequence. However, someone had performed a poor job of attempted undercoating and it was a mess. Even after power washing, there was so much dirt, grease, and grime that parts were unrecognizable. You could not even see the transfer case. When I had it off and began cleaning, it was like chipping slowly into a rock. I tired of all the grease, dirt, and rust falling everywhere. So I sandblasted so as to really see what I had and to rid myself of all that mess. I did the same with the frame and it has been very pleasant to do the axles and brakes on a clean epoxy coated piece. Thanks for the tip on the paint brands and qty req'd. Bob and others, I'll be printing all these comments out, re-reading, and researching long before I begin it. I'll begin a re-builders thread and post some pics. Thanks again |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| jyotin | May 18 2012, 07:45 AM Post #8 |
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Re sandblasting. I sandblast small parts almost 100% of the time. However, with sheet metal it is a different story. If the current paint is tight it can be used as primer with sanding. Small chipped areas can be filled in with glazing compound ( the red stuff in a tube) Prior to sanding, it needs to be washed to get all the grime, wax and road stuff off of it. Spraying primer on bare metal only provides minimal protection against rust; the metal needs to be painted as soon as possible. Remember that the first primer should be an etching primer on bare metal. I'm sure you've seen trucks and cars going down the road wherein someone has done some sanding and primering (is primering a word?) and rust is coming through the primer. I use a LOT of Rust Reformer (by rust-o-leum). It works much the same as POR 15, but can be sprayed on and used as a primer. The nice thing about Rust Reformer is that it makes a good guide coat for areas that need sanding. Spray the black Rust Reformer, cover with gray primer, and then when sanding one can see the high areas 'cause they'll turn black first. good luck j |
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It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today. 54 - 3B - down on the farm 67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue ?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green | |
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| JROD CJ53 | Oct 19 2012, 03:55 PM Post #9 |
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I just tackled some painting of my own, and had to re do a lot of areas I screwed up. I have no expierence of any kind in auto painting. the PO had used a lime green paint on the grill fenders and hood. just paint, no primer. I removed the paint to bare metal. Using only aerosol paint cans I did 3 coats of self etching primer sanded with 600 grit. 3 layers of filler primer wet sanded with 800 grit. Then 4 layers of paint wet sanded with 1500. then clearcoated. I rushed and have to re do a little work on the grille, but Im happy with the color and I know it has protection with the primer than what it had before.![]() http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3...226124718_n.jpg |
| 1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL | |
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