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44 axle; hub removal impossible
Topic Started: Jul 1 2012, 10:04 AM (2,431 Views)
jking
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My project has hit a difficult , delaying, and disappointing hurdle. The rear axle hubs refuse to be removed. After investing in an OTC 7394 hub removal tool and the extra legs, I thought I was going to have it licked. A bigger hammer is not the answer. After coaxing an additional inch of screw turn with 40 swings of my BFH, I noticed that the hub was bowing from the tension on the legs. Additional effort wasn't going to work and I'm risking getting sloppy with the BFH and injuring myself. It took 10 swings of a sledge to loosen the screw to remove the tool.Both sides are this way. Is this unusual?

I expect that I will need to remove the axles with the hubs on them and using a press to remove the hubs and see if the axles can be savalged - I doubt that the hubs can be. So, I expect that I have to remove the bolts from the axle casting holding the backing plate on and use a slide hammer to pull it. Is this correct or do I need to perform some other task in addition. The hub puller was a significant investment and I'm not sure I can find a hammer for it. So I still may be delayed finding an appropriate tool, as the slide hammers rented by the auto stores don't have a flange to fit the bolt pattern or have enough depth to clear the axle end and still attach to the hub.

I'd appreciate any advice on my problem and plan of action.

Thanks,

John
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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surprised_one
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I had the same problem with mine and once i took it out and used a press with a bit of heat i had no luck at all ...Heat and a press worked great for me

Just my$.02 worth

George
1963 cj3b
1978 cj7
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jking
Member
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Thanks for the reply George. If you don't mind, where did you find a flange/slide hammer that would fit the bolt pattern and depth requirement?

Also, were the axles and hub savagable? I've seen some comments on this about the affect of high heat on the axles - which I've done to them also.
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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oldtime
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After removing the backing plate bolts (6 per side) the axle should come out without need for a slide hammer.
The only thing holding the axleshaft and hub assembly in position is the bearing cup (race).
You can hit the back of the hub to drive the bearing cup out from its seat inside the axle tube.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jking
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Thank you Oldtime! Just got the driver's side off. Should have done this two weeks ago.

Next time I won't wait to post the problem - I wasted two weeks and 200 bucks for the OTC tool. Although, I can't get the time back, but the puller will likely come in handy.

Thanks again and happy 4th.

John
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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jking
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Axles popped right out.

Drivers

Posted Image

Pass

Posted Image

Pass housing

Posted Image
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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jking
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whats the extra hole for at the bottom of the housing?
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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Bob
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Bob
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I believe the extra hole is a drain. The seals and gaskets all have a corresponding hole.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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Rus Curtis
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As Bob states, all shims, the bearing retainer, backing plate and gaskets have a corresponding hole. As you disassemble the hub/backing plate you'll notice two rings (and gaskets) in between the backing plate and the hub: the Grease Retainer and the Grease Protector. I had to look a bit but found a good exploded view of the rear wheel and all these parts in the Q section of the SM.

The retainer is the seal and the protector (only one that doesn't have that hole) is your last defense in catching grease before it contaminates your brakes. When you inspect or service your brakes you should be checking inside this protector to see if grease is present.

Make sure that hole lines up during re-assembly. Since the axles are out, now's a good time to replace the inner seal.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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JROD CJ53
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oldtime,Jul 1 2012
01:48 PM
After removing the backing plate bolts (6 per side) the axle should come out without need for a slide hammer.
The only thing holding the axleshaft and hub assembly in position is the bearing cup (race).
You can hit the back of the hub to drive the bearing cup out from its seat inside the axle tube.

I'm taking apart my rear axle and am at the same point. I have taken everything off to the spindle. Do I reattach the hub to the axle and then hit it to remove the bearing cup? Do both sides( hubs and brake housings) of the axle need to be removed to slide the inner axle out on one side?
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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oldtime
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The brake backing plate is a large diameter.
I suggest you could reinstall the hub back onto the tapered axle shaft.
There is no need to install the hub key or torque the axle nut.
The hub should give you a large enough object to strike with a hammer.
Or you could simply install the axle nut and strike that, but be gentle since nut damage could occur.
The bearing cups should be a very light press fit. They are nearly slip fit.
You can remove either one or both tapered axles in the same fashion.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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JROD CJ53
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Great, ill try that. Thank you. I just have no idea how old the bearings are, and I want to inspect and repack, or replace
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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JROD CJ53
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Ended up getting the axle disassembled pretty easy. One size came off no problem, other needed a hub puller. Searched for a hub puller at auto parts store and only found ones for smaller import set ups. Tried removing the eccentrics and found those to be rusted on. I wrecked one trying to get it off so I ended up cutting it off and using the whole where the rest fell into the drum assembly to insert a punch and tap on the back of the hub. A few decent taps and the hub separated from the drum. I cleaned everything and got my axle shafts out and new bearings pressed on.

I'm at reassembly and got new parts from Walcks. I want to make sure I'm doing the seals correctly since the gaskets for the outer oil seals are different that what I took off.

I started with the inner oil seal seating it in position with a seal driver. I followed with the axle seal, greased my bearing and put the race on. I have zirc fittings for the axle at the bearing, is packing the bearing before hand required? recommended?

After the bearing I put in the one shim I had before the backing plate. Then the backing plate with the 6 screws going through the axle housing holes, shim, backing, plate both paper gaskets for the outer seal and the oil seal. In that order.

I aligned both gaskets and the outer oil seal so that all the holes lined up with the drain hole being open. Is this correct?
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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oldtime
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http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Photos/Parts/RearAxle.JPG

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Photos/Par...xleExploded.JPG
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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JROD CJ53
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Old time, I have both those diagrams,but thank you for the link. I see in the exploded diagram that the shims are all lined up with the drain hole, but it doesnt show from the backing plate out.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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