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44 axle; hub removal impossible
Topic Started: Jul 1 2012, 10:04 AM (2,432 Views)
Rus Curtis
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jrod,
We have to be careful here as we don't want to hijack John's original post. Your project seems to be having issues with the same area so it's understandable to jump in. So I'll be brief but to get long and drawn out, you may enjoy having your own topic started to be able to read all posts without any confusion towards which project is being addressed (plus it helps us out!) :P

JROD CJ53,Dec 9 2012
01:28 PM

I started with the inner oil seal seating it in position with a seal driver. I followed with the axle seal, greased my bearing and put the race on. I have zirc fittings for the axle at the bearing, is packing the bearing before hand required? recommended?


I would suggest yes, that way you know it's packed completely before assembly. I wouldn't rely on the zerk to fully pack a bearing as it will spin with some dry spots for an undetermined amount of time before it was covered in grease.

Quote:
 

After the bearing I put in the one shim I had before the backing plate. Then the backing plate with the 6 screws going through the axle housing holes, shim, backing, plate both paper gaskets for the outer seal and the oil seal.  In that order.

You may want to read Dr. Vern's explanation of axle end play. Most likely, if you didn't install new bearings and kept the shims in order, then most likely it will be within tolerance upon correct reassembly. Plus he does a good job with illustrations.
http://www.vernco.com/RearAxle2/index_axleshaft_endplay.htm

Quote:
 

I aligned both gaskets and the outer oil seal so that all the holes lined up with the drain hole being open.  Is this correct?


Sounds correct.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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Quote:
 
I see in the exploded diagram that the shims are all lined up with the drain hole, but it doesnt show from the backing plate out.

As you know the backing plate also has a hole for excess grease outflow from the wheel bearing.
After the backing plate...next install a paper gasket.
Then install the hub seal followed by another gasket and finally the grease retainer.
The grease retainer allows excess / overflow grease to enter into it at the bottom.
It is cupped around the axle shaft / hub area so that grease does not exit into the drum area.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jeeper50
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ol' skool jeeper jeff
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oldtime,Dec 9 2012
06:00 PM
Quote:
 

It is cupped around the axle shaft / hub area so that grease does not exit into the drum area.

The zerk is intended to allow servicing bearing only not initial bearing packing, Excess grease you pump into the bearing after assy, will not drain out of the drain hole (too thick). It will extrude out thru the clearance between the retainer and the hub after filling that area, ask me how I know...learned that one many years ago as a teenager with my 'ol hot rod Willys wagon....brakes no worky with greased shoes LOL

Now I repack bearing and wrap in saran wrap to keep out dirt while it's being pressed on, then remove wrap! and slide in axle.
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country


Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt...
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JROD CJ53
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I apologize if I hijack the thread. Wasn't my intention. I'll start a new thread later to go into this a little more including pictures. Thank you for the information. Looks like I'm heading in the right direction
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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JROD CJ53
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Thank you oldtime for the install process. Couldn't find that anywhere, and the way it came off both of the gaskets were together instead of sandwiching the hub seal. Saved me a lot of pain down the road.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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