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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 18 2012, 05:07 PM (1,225 Views) | |
| t56tr | Aug 18 2012, 05:07 PM Post #1 |
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54 3b... Engine is an f head that was swapped in. It is OD green and has military rebuild tag on it from 1976 - says it was bored and mains turned etc. Anyway, it seems to start and idle perfectly. I have not had it down the road yet, but it revs up fine etc. Problem is that it smokes. At an idle and seems a bit worse when revved. Its def blueish grey oil smoke...it has the burning oil smell and it will burn your eyes etc. Its faint coming out of tail pipe, but will quickly fog out the inside of a garage or make noticable drifting clouds ona still day. Anyway, I looked at some basics, and so far all I have to go on is that all of the plugs seem a bit loaded up with black (like too much idleing), but the plug closest to the firewall appears the same but wet as well - even the threads are wet. Looks like oil... Any ideas? |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| oldtime | Aug 18 2012, 05:24 PM Post #2 |
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Seems like it may need intake valve oil seals or piston rings at a minimum and it likely will need a full rebuild. The #4 could have an oil fouled plug or a bad spark cable. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| t56tr | Aug 19 2012, 02:47 PM Post #3 |
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Did a compression test, two cyl at about 135, two at about 145. Been playing with it and discovered that if I pull the plug wire off of the plug that is closest to the fire wall (the one that appeared wet), the engine just dies (?). So I put it back on, retstarted, and the decided to pull the wire off of the plug that is closest to the rad...made no change, in idle or anything. Put that one back on, and pulled the plug on the 2nd back from rad, no change again, nothing. Put that one back on and pulled third from rad, and engine dies. So If I pull the third or fourth back from rad the engine dies. 1st and second made no dif. Normally anything I have worked on the #1 cyl is the furthest front, but it looks like someone put the number one wire (according to the cap), on the plug closest to the firewall. Any thoughts? Also which is #1? |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| oldtime | Aug 19 2012, 03:04 PM Post #4 |
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Compression seems pretty good. #1 is the front of the engine. Firing order is 1-3-4-2 #1 cable @ 5 O'clock #3 cable @ 2 O'clock #4 cable @ 11 O"clock #2 cable @ 8 O' clock If yours is equipped with Autolite IAD 4008 Please identify. Are spark cables resistor type or copper core ? Can you test spark cables with Ohmmeter ? |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| t56tr | Aug 19 2012, 05:07 PM Post #5 |
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12v conversion at some point... Dist 1ay 4012 plugs j8c Some unknown coil that looks old and says 12v embossed in the side. Wires unkown origin but look shot now that I am inspecting them. Dont forget this motor was swapped in at some point and is some type of military rebuild in 76. My #1 on dist seems to be at about 6-7 o clock. Meter is at work so cannot test, but I can tell the wires need replacing so I am going to order....going to order complete tune up parts at this point. Can any of the findings so far be causing the smoke? The smoke is not that noticeable on a cold start, but gets a little worse as the engine heats, then just stays mild but constant - makes a little more when bringing rpms up. Like I said, have not driven yet though.. Thank you for all the good advice... |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| oldtime | Aug 20 2012, 09:23 AM Post #6 |
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Because your cylinder compession looks to be fairly good, I will suspect the oil control rings to be servicable. Remove the intake valves then check for presence of intake valve seals. If intake valve seals are not present; that alone will cause a lot of oil smoke. Install Felpo seal #407. Your oil pump is incorrectly indexing the distributor. Please read: http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/DistributorInstall.html |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| t56tr | Aug 20 2012, 09:59 AM Post #7 |
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Thank you for the help I am doing full tune up thn will take it from there |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| t56tr | Aug 30 2012, 09:11 PM Post #8 |
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Did the valve seals..... #1 and #4 were brittle, #2 and #3 still seemed to have some elasticity to them. Upon start up the smoke seems to be gone, which is great. I let it idle for a while and get hot and no smoke (Prior to changing them it would fog out the garage as soon as it warmed up). Didnt have time to drive it tonight so I do not know how the road test will go (smokewise). However when I took it around the block prior to changing the seals it was smoke city. Had a couple of discoveries though... #3 has a slighlty bent push rod (seems to run fine with it). The top of the guide also looked nicked up. When I charged #3 with air to hold valve up, I had air coming out of ther push rod hole in the head. With push rod removed you could actually put finger on the hole and feel it. Didnt seem to be coming out of any other push rod holes. When I charged cyl 2, I seemed to get small amount of air coming out of cyl 3 spark plug hole (no matter how I rotated the motor). It still held the valve up to change #2 seal though. When all complete I did a compression test cold with a brand new gauge and it did 100 100 100 100.... |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| oldtime | Aug 31 2012, 10:02 AM Post #9 |
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Excellent observations !Seems that the engine sucked in something hard. This indicates that it may also have nicks on top of that piston. It would be best to replace the bent push rod and re-check the tappet clearances. This seems to indicate the head gasket is leaking between the combustion chamber and the #3 push rod hole. This seems to indicate the head gasket is leaking between the #2 and #3 combustion chambers. I suggest you pull the head. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| t56tr | Aug 31 2012, 11:16 AM Post #10 |
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Thank you for the resposne... Is it possible that the head gasket has an issue, even though there appears to be no symptoms... ie no anitfreeze in the oil, no pressure/bubble in the coolant radiaitor, no water in the oil, no blow by out of the crank case or pcv, etc etc? On a diff note, I went to time it last night (for the first time) and the dist is stuck, so I have it soaking in wd40. With the light going it looked like the timing mark on the pulley is about an 3/4 inch away from the 5 deg mark (3/4 inch away counter clock wise direction) I do not know if the timing is right, and I have so far only been around the block once, but I will say the jeep starts perfectly...I mean just trip the key and it lights right up. It starts as good as my new truck. |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| oldtime | Aug 31 2012, 03:46 PM Post #11 |
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Yes that's exactly what I've suggested in the previous post. From what you describe the ignition timing seems to be too far advanced. You say this has an IAY 4012 without vacuum advance ? Is that correct ? By the way please fill in your "SIGNATURE" with known jeep details and thanks for posting ! |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| t56tr | Aug 31 2012, 10:33 PM Post #12 |
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Yes 4012 -no vac In regards to the stuck dist, I soaked it over night in WD40, then hit it with an oil filter strap wrench, and it broke free. I then adjusted the timing to the 5 deg mark. This caused it to need some idle speed adjusting. After that I drove it around my yard a bit and it seems to have much better off idle response/power. I got plates for it today...I am going to hit the steet with it and start running it a bit. |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| t56tr | Sep 6 2012, 06:22 AM Post #13 |
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For what its worth.... I have been taking the willys on a small cruise the last couple of nights. It seems to be running very well. The engine smoke seems to be gone with the exception of a little puff every now and then. I have a new solex on it which despite what some other have said, is working great (I did the fuel pressure reg with it and set at 1.75). Now some new things are coming up, like the steering box needs rebuild, tranny wont downshift 2-3, needs new tires etc, but that was to be expected. |
| 54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's | |
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| Rus Curtis | Sep 6 2012, 08:41 AM Post #14 |
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A good feeling to move on and address other issues (while getting to take fun rides) !! |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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3:41 AM Jul 11