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Shock absorbers again
Topic Started: Aug 31 2012, 10:49 AM (859 Views)
jaspu
Member
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It is difficult to locate the correct Monroe shocks here at reasonable price. The shocks for WWII MBs are not usable, are they?
Thanks Jan
Jaspu
Ex Swiss army 1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B /replacement fuel pump / YF 938 S/ Hurricane with PCV / 8-1/2" clutch / T90-C / D-18, intermediate shaft 1 - 1/4"/open differential 5.375/ 12 Volt alternator Czech Republic
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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Yes.
MB, GPW, M38, CJ-2A, CJ-3A and CJ-3B replacement shocks should all be the same.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jaspu
Member
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A military spare parts seller showed me the front and rear MB shocks. They were different in legth. Front ones looked similar when comparing the collapsed and extended lengts with my hopefully original ones. I noticed G503 ordnance marking stamped on NOS MB shocks. Confusing, isnīt it?
Jaspu
Ex Swiss army 1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B /replacement fuel pump / YF 938 S/ Hurricane with PCV / 8-1/2" clutch / T90-C / D-18, intermediate shaft 1 - 1/4"/open differential 5.375/ 12 Volt alternator Czech Republic
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t56tr
Member
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I am confused at what you are asking for, but I used the monroe 31000 on front and rear and they seem to be fine. I did new springs all around too, I used leafs that are supposed to provide 1" of lift, so that could make a diff in my application.
54' 3B - 3A glass tub orig steel 3b cowl/dash/hood/ F134 1" superlift 16 steel wheels ndcc's
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Rus Curtis
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jaspu,
I notice your signature block shows you're in the Czech Republic. I suppose it's possible that shock availability may be an issue.

Oldtime has provided crossover comparison shock information. I looked in my Service Manual and here's the numbers provided.

Posted Image

You'll notice they are the same front and rear. Just match up the shocks you are looking at with the measurements shown.

My question to you is are these shocks you are being shown have compressed gas like modern shocks or the older fluid only shocks?
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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jaspu
Member
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I think the older fluid is used.
Jaspu
Ex Swiss army 1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B /replacement fuel pump / YF 938 S/ Hurricane with PCV / 8-1/2" clutch / T90-C / D-18, intermediate shaft 1 - 1/4"/open differential 5.375/ 12 Volt alternator Czech Republic
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Rus Curtis
Member
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jaspu,
The reason I asked is sometimes when you get the old fluid shocks, they have a "dead spot" in them where they feel like they don't work - even when new. This air gap needs to be purged in order to get the shock to work as designed.

The newer gas charged shocks are different. If you purchase those shocks, they may need purging but its easy to do.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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willow green
Willow Green
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Ok, i'm not the most exp. rebuilder here, so could someone explain just where you would measure the lenghts of a shock absorber? (Is it from the center of mounting holes either extended or collapsed?)
And just how do you purge a shock? Iguess i'm really dumb in this area.

THANKS , Willow Green
1953 CJ3B WILLOW GREEN
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Rus Curtis
Member
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Willow,
Yes, you measure from the center of the mount holes, collapsed and extended.

The purge is easy - but only applies to older hydraulic shocks. Gas charged shocks cannot be purged. They're ready to go.

The purely hydraulic shock, i.e. old shock, is not completely full of fluid. It has an air or gas pocket but is not pressurized.

When holding the shock right side up, and you attempt to extend it, if working properly, you'll feel resistance all the way to extension. If not working properly, you'll feel a gap or "dead spot" where it feels like the shock is broken or not working and will extend - at least part of the way - with no resistance at all. This is a shock that needs to be purged.

There are two chambers in this type shock (the old shock): The inner and outer chamber. The inner chamber has air in it and needs to be pushed out to the outer chamber where it can sit and not affect the operation. The ports are at the bottom of the shock.

Collapse the shock and turn it upside down. Extend it while still inverted. You'll feel some of the air pass through the ports. When fully extended, turn the shock upright and collapse. Repeat until all the air from the inner chamber has been purged to the outer chamber. Once you can pull on the shock and not feel a dead spot, it is ready to be installed.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Bryan
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Member
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I just bought a set of heavy duty shocks from Walck's a few weeks ago. They made a world of difference. The old shocks had been on since the 60's, and may have been original for all I know.

1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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willow green
Willow Green
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Thanks Rus, a world of knowledge is in this forum.
Willow
1953 CJ3B WILLOW GREEN
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