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Hand brake repair
Topic Started: Sep 3 2012, 11:58 AM (671 Views)
JROD CJ53
Member
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I have a 1953 3B that I am doing an entire restore on. mostly in good shape other then dried clay on the underside, so I'm triny to find whats dirt and what's rust. Can't pressure wash it again, until I can get it back out of the garage.
I am starting by going thru all the operation systems.(brakes, steering, motor((which is running good!!)) etc)

I am mostly working on the front axle(Dana25) right now. Replaces the brakes, bearings, and cleaned the hubs. But am at a stopping point, due to lack of funds. I need all new new king pin bearings and cups.

I took the propeller shaft off of the hand brake assembly on the transmission. Does anyone know off hand the size of the nut that is on the housing so I can clean that all out and replace parts on that. It looks to be over 1 inch in size.

Thank you for the posts everyone has put up. I am new to working on cars in this detail, so this and the service manuals have been a big help. There have been times where the manual says "remove this" or "adjust this" and I had no idea how. A few topics on here have walked me thru, where the manual didn't.

Jared Crisp
Tarpon Springs FL
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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Rus Curtis
Member
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jrod,
The nut on the output shaft holding the yolk on is 1 1/8"

If I may, you'll either want an offset box end or preferably a socket.

I have done my time under my jeep with a box end wrench and it is really difficult to get good leverage on it when you have to position the wrench on the nut.

The socket can be used either with a ratchet or an air gun.

It should be on real tight.

When you take that off, the oil will pour out of the transfer case so you may want to drain that.

If the seal is shot, then you'll also benefit from a seal puller as well.

You'll want to seal it up real well and ensure the yolk is smooth and polished before putting it all back together. Another strong suggestion is to seal the yolk around the shaft with sealant too (put on the yolk vs. the shaft) as well. You don't want to take this apart due to missing something (I've taken mine apart at least three times 'cause I forgot a step).

Unfortunately, you can't check for leaks until the hand brake and yolk are back on again.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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Jared,
Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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JROD CJ53
Member
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Curtis Thank you very much! I will get out there on that. Draining and changing the fluids(all of them) has been my plan from the start, so that will be a good time to do that like you said.

Another one of those great tips the mechanic's manual left out in the instructions.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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