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| bad leak; from where is it coming? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 11 2012, 12:52 PM (3,331 Views) | |
| Daryl | Sep 13 2012, 10:47 PM Post #46 |
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Maybe the come-a-long or chain hoist up to the beam to lower the assembly to the floor just hasn't been explained well enough. This is done by attaching a come-a-long to a fixed point that can support a couple hundred pounds. This needs to be directly over the hole in the floor directly behind where the transmission shifter is located. A short piece of chain is then attached to the two rear shift tower bolt holes with two hex bolts. The come-a-long is then hooked to this chain. When the transmission and transfer case is unbolted from the bellhousing(after the removal of the transfer case shifters, speedo cable, both drivelines, mount to crossmember, torque mount, and crossmember itself) it is then slid to the rear with the come-a-long just taking about half the weight of the unit. Once the input shaft is clear of the clutch assembly, the whole assembly can easily be lowered to the ground by reversing the come-a-long. It is almost a perfect balance if done just right. Re-installing the assembly is very easily done this way as the balance allows you to wiggle it back into the clutch assembly. Obviously having two people makes this much easier to accomplish. Clear as mud??? |
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Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts In Bonney Lake, Washington Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out. | |
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| gianas | Sep 14 2012, 01:36 AM Post #47 |
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Bob: You've given me some very helpful advice. You'd never know it or believe it, from how much help I've requested on this forum, but, until I got this jeep which I thought was in perfect condition, I habitually avoided asking anyone for help. To me, good soldiers carry their own pack. That's why Williams' comments about me figuring it out by myself and not wasting people's time asking for help hit so hard; I actually share his views and have for the past four-plus decades. Daryl: Clear as mud, yes. I don't even know what a Hex bolt is, but I'll learn. All this stuff is clear as water to most on the forum (it seems) because they know the vocabulary. I don't, but, like I said, I'll learn. Have to do my homework before I proceed. Your help/input was and is appreciated. greg |
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Greg Gianas Redmond, Washington 1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong, last vehicle I'll probably ever own, purchased May 2012; first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories | |
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| gianas | Sep 14 2012, 10:10 AM Post #48 |
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Bob, you can be sure there won't be more than two people in the garage when the work is done, and the other person is someone who's perfect for the job, for the reasons already mentioned. Rus, thank you for the compliment regarding the jeep. Thanks to you all, it will get fixed. A writing assignment will be requiring a whole lot of attention, and I must make sure, as suggested, that I have all the tools ready at hand, which isn't the case, now. So I'll be needing to address those issues, and reading all the suggested reading various people have sent me, for reasons already given. Be back in two weeks. greg greg |
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Greg Gianas Redmond, Washington 1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong, last vehicle I'll probably ever own, purchased May 2012; first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories | |
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| oldtime | Sep 14 2012, 10:22 AM Post #49 |
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Dick , I'm quite confident that you are fully capable of removing a transmission or whatever. I just wasn't sure why you wrote the words "remove it from the top". Anyway your viewpoints are certainly welcomed. I can see that Daryl has used the come-along / hoist method. I suspect that my preferred technique is just a tad different than his. I also attach direct to the transmission shift tower bolt holes with an appropriate short length of chain. I prefer a chain that's just long enough to go from the foreward left shift tower bolt hole to the right rear shift tower bolt hole. A short, relatively tight attachment chain allows one to slide the balancing point if needed. Because my balance point is slightly foreward of Daryl's I also leave the bell housing alttached. I lower the transfer case, the transmission, the O.D. and the bellhousing as one unit. Obviously the engine remains intact. It rests supported on wood blocks very near its original height. (near level) |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| gianas | Sep 30 2012, 01:40 PM Post #50 |
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Have four (4) questions based on the following reply to a question from Rick Stivers and something Novak has written about the T90, in addition to comments from a couple people who have mentioned possible clutch problems as a result of the transmission leak. Stivers quote will come first, then Novak's, with questions following. Here's Stivers' answer to a question. "Greg, It is very common for the transmission to leak oil where you are talking about because the only thing holding the oil inside the transmission at the input shaft is the felt washer. It you do a few test you find that felt it a very poor oil seal. The front bearing is an open bearing that is washed in oil as the transmission runs. However, it isn't common for the T-90 to leak that much oil so I'm guessing the seal it bad and that the oil collector is probably missing from a prior rebuild. Many people have solved this problem by replacing the front bearing with a sealed bearing (part #.SKF---6208-2RSNRJ/EM or MRC brand Part #208-SZZG These part numbers are almost 10 years old but you should be able to find the equivilent parts today). However, there is more to it than just replacing the open bearing with a sealed bearing. You must also seal up around the bearing and the oil return hole. Once all that is done it should run without too many leaks. You will need to perform a minor rebuild to replace the bearing so I recommend the basic rebuild parts kit. Make sure you are not overfilling the transmission with oil. You should only fill it up to the bottom of the fill port. Anything over that will quickly find it's way out. ... I hope this helps. Rick Stivers" ___________ Four questions: The sealed bearing Rick recommends is readily available at Napa; it's price is now (Nov. 30, 2012): $57.67. For those who may want to know, the part is currently cross-referenced to SKF-6208-2RSJ. Question one: To those who have used both sealed and unsealed bearings in this position in the transmission: Do you recommend the sealed bearing or an unsealed bearing? Maybe? the answer isn't obvious; I don't know. _____ Here's something Novak has written about the T-90 that's left me with some questions. "T90 Oil Collectors These T90 oil collectors are no longer available by any manufacturer. However, no other major transmission uses such a device. The main problem presented to engineers here is that the T90 and Dana 18 typically shared transmission fluid, and on a steep incline, fluid could drain from the T90 into the Dana transfer case. The collector was a last line of defense in keeping the front bearings of the transmission oiled in such a scenario. If your T90's oil collector is damaged or missing, we recommend running a full face gasket or port plug between the T90 and Dana transfer case, and then filling them with oil independently. This will allow a T90 perform safely without the need for an oil collector." __________ Question two: Does anyone have a spare oil collector they can sell me? (No, I don't know, yet, whether it's there or not, or damaged.) Need to be prepared. Question three: What is your view concerning Novak's recommendation concerning putting a "full-face gasket or port plug between the T90 and the Dana transfer case," especially if I find that my oil collector is gone or damaged? Maybe I have no choice; I don't yet know because of my lack of knowledge about transmissions. Question four: Daryl and others have mentioned the possible need to replace the clutch friction plate because of possible oil contamination from my transmission leak. Given the amount of transmission oil I've been loosing (at least two cups per week—more if I drive the jeep more than an hour at a time every day), is it almost a "sure thing" that I'll need to be replacing clutch parts? Thanks, Greg |
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Greg Gianas Redmond, Washington 1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong, last vehicle I'll probably ever own, purchased May 2012; first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories | |
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| Doug | Sep 30 2012, 02:01 PM Post #51 |
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Greg, You can borrow my T-90 rebuild video. PM me your address and I will get it in the mail this week. Doug |
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1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator 1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18 2004 TW 200 | |
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| gianas | Sep 30 2012, 04:48 PM Post #52 |
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Thanks, Doug, I did. Greg |
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Greg Gianas Redmond, Washington 1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong, last vehicle I'll probably ever own, purchased May 2012; first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories | |
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3:40 AM Jul 11