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| Hoe to remove glass from widshield frame? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 15 2012, 07:21 PM (1,475 Views) | |
| rcolijn | Sep 15 2012, 07:21 PM Post #1 |
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The Willys Workshop
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Hey guys, have decided I am having a go at the body. So I will remove as much parts as I can, sandblast them and spray putty them, than will decided about the actual finish. Just a quick question, I'd like to remove the glass from the frame so sandblasting will be easier, any tips on it, without breaking the glass off course:) I did some reading up and I am thinking to carefully lift up the rubber, starting at the gap place, drop in some lubricant, let soak for a couple of days, repeat, then get a piece of steel wire and carefully "saw" on the metal edge, sliding arround the window, then carefully push out using a blunt putty knife or screwdriver. Hows that? ps Glass is good and rubber is ok. |
| 1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more! | |
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| Rus Curtis | Sep 15 2012, 07:35 PM Post #2 |
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rc, There is a locking strip on one side or the other in the center of the seal. You'll be able to tell as the other side of the seal will be smooth. Trace that around until you find the two ends. Lift one of the edges out and pull the lock strip out of the seal. Once that is out, there will be little to no tension on the glass and it will easily lift out. I'm not able to get on the 3B page right now, so I can't recall if there's specific info on this. However..... Over on the CJ3A Page there is a nice walk-through on installing. http://www.cj3apage.com/how_to_replace_your_windshield_g.htm Check the 4th image for what the strip looks like. |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| F Bill | Sep 15 2012, 09:08 PM Post #3 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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If you are restoring it the safest way is to cut off the old seal with a utility knife. You will want a new seal anyhhow. Most glass shops have that style seal by the foot. Rus's advice is good too.. One thing not shown in the 3A page how to is the correct reinstallation tool for the locking strip. It will make the job much easier when you reinstall the glass. One of these days I gotta get a picture of the tool on that webpage. Not sure what you mean by sawing the seal with a wire .....but the putty knife can b eused to push teh seal over the metal. A plastic one would be safer for your rubber seal if yo are keeping it. |
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| Daryl | Sep 16 2012, 09:50 AM Post #4 |
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The best way to break a piece of glass is to try and reinstall with a old seal. |
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Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts In Bonney Lake, Washington Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out. | |
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| HOGHEAD | Sep 16 2012, 10:48 AM Post #5 |
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Old Jeep Fart
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Been there done that ....Always replace with new seal... |
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Dargan Md... Death Before 2 Wheel Drive... "On a Steel Horse I ride" AMC Rules. "Journey" not the Destination... 59 Cj3-b (married to a 74 Cj-5 frame & AMC running gear) Willys Overland,, My Build http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=2892 | |
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| Bob_webber | Sep 16 2012, 11:55 AM Post #6 |
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whatever you do, do not buy the seal from kaiser willys. i did and it was of such poor quality i could not get it in, so i took the frame, glass, and seal to my local glass shop so they could have a go at it. as it ended up they had to goup a bunch of urethane on the glass to hold the seal and was a huge pain in the neck even for them.
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53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was bob, north east Ohio | |
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| Larry (TX) | Sep 16 2012, 01:09 PM Post #7 |
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Great advice from all the fellows above, and you might just luck out successfully with the job, but if you've never done it before, take it to your local auto glass shop, let them remove it, clean and re-paint the frame and take it back to the shop so they can re-install the glass, and by all means, purchase all new rubber. One slight wrong move and you can crack the glass faster'n a flash of light, and a replacement will easily cost $180 - $200 (and that doesn't include installation - don't ask me how I know that). Glass shops use pliable tools, something that most of us don't normally have lying around our shops, and if they crack or break the glass, they have to foot the bill. |
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Larry Steed Pearland, Texas '53 Willys CJ3B '52 Willys M38 '86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer) M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.) M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer | |
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| oldtime | Sep 16 2012, 01:20 PM Post #8 |
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Removing a CJ windshield without breakage is much easier than the installation. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| Phil... | Sep 16 2012, 03:10 PM Post #9 |
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Oh yeah, bin there done that as they say! I spent two days or so in my kitchen struggling to fit the new glass. I bounced that frame all over the place which resulted in me “digging up” the kitchen table, re-activating my sciatica problems and running my inhaler dry. Soon the cramp in my hands was so severe my fingers locked up and I started to look like an extra from Mike Jackson’s “Thriller”. Anyway, I’m on the final stretch with about a foot or so to go when "chink”. What happened next is still a bit of a blur but I have promised the Bride that I will re-assemble that kitchen stool. In the end I got the pro’s in who cut a new piece on site and had it fitted in about an hour.
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Indian 3B England. | |
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| Daryl | Sep 16 2012, 03:26 PM Post #10 |
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Great pic of how to not end the locking strip at the same point as the main rubber. I put the seam of the main rubber on one of the sides as it tends to reduce the leaks. Also when putting the new rubber into the frame, it is best to "push" as much onto the frame as possible. If you try to skimp on the rubber when you put it on, it will shrink over time and cause a gap which will leak. |
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Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts In Bonney Lake, Washington Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out. | |
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| Phil... | Sep 17 2012, 04:45 AM Post #11 |
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Those guy's in the pic would have agreed with you Daryl. As they inspected the old rubber seal I mentioned the fact that it never did fit really snug in the corners. They went on to explain, as you rightly point out, that poor installation would only become apparent as the rubber hardened and shrank over time. I watched these fella's do their thing. When fitting the rubber to the steel they started in the corners first. Once snug they palmed the rest along the straight edges making absolutely sure there was continuous metal to rubber contact. Then they trimmed off to fit - as in the pic!
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Indian 3B England. | |
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| HOGHEAD | Sep 17 2012, 05:19 AM Post #12 |
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Old Jeep Fart
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I bought a brand new winsheild frame ($160) for my 74 & tryed to put the old windsheld in it with new seal & soappy water in hand,, I attacked it one evening....Broke my windsheld in about any hour.... called local glass people they came out with a brand new glass to fit my 74,,,, it only took him 15 mins to brake that one ... After checking things out,, The windsheld glass was larger than the opening,,He had another flat glass in his truck (left over from the sheet he cut mine from) & with the help of a 4 in grinder with a sanding pad on it it was in ... & didnt leak,,, he didnt charge for the one he broke but the new one cost me $180... 3 weeks later that one cracked,,, Went to a local junk yard with a freind of mine looking for parts for his jeep & found a wrecked 74 with a good windsheld & frame & got it for $50,,, I love my Jeep I love my Jeep I love my JEEP,, I keep repeating that over & over in my head,,, :angry: |
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Dargan Md... Death Before 2 Wheel Drive... "On a Steel Horse I ride" AMC Rules. "Journey" not the Destination... 59 Cj3-b (married to a 74 Cj-5 frame & AMC running gear) Willys Overland,, My Build http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=2892 | |
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| Rus Curtis | Sep 17 2012, 07:32 AM Post #13 |
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Hoghead brings up a good point. When parts arrive, it’s always good to dry fit prior to applying sealant, gaskets or seals. Holes/edges should line up and there should be clearance that matches the old part. Am I the only one that holds up the old part to the new part at the store to verify it is the same? As mentioned in an earlier post, old parts should be kept until the new one is installed and working. With that said, I've got to stress, comparatively speaking, this is an easy job. Those two guys make it look difficult. I did this by myself as a teenager just reading the SM and making observations as I go. Granted, the glass was cut correctly and the seal was good quality (this was around ’81-’82). Look at seal cross section. That part in-between where the glass and frame goes is how much gap you should have between the glass and frame. Otherwise the glass is too large. I've seen posts of preferences for putting the lock strip in front. I've even got a pic from a jeep at one of the MidWest Reunions showing it this way (I took a pic 'cause the glass had a WO etched in it - making me think it was original glass). Same as what these guys appear to be doing. However, the manual I have states, T-7. Model CJ-3B, CJ-5, CJ-6 The windshield glass is mounted in a rubber weatherstrip which in turn mounts in the frame. A rubber locking strip, which holds the glass firmly in the frame, is inserted in a molded groove around the rear face of the weatherstrip as shown in Fig. 312. To remove the glass it is necessary to first remove the locking strip which may be pried out with a screw driver or similar tool. Installation is obvious. Other images I have show a smooth seal on the outside, i.e. lock strip inside (rear), including mine. Perhaps my ignorance or lack of understanding made me overconfident at the time but I dropped the frame down on the hood and proceeded with removing and then did the installation. After I pulled the lock strip, I noticed how loose the glass was as I pushed it forward and backward before lifting it out of the seal. Not knowing what I was doing, I used RTV seal to frame and seal to glass (that’s right – both sides). That did make it a bit slippery during installation but I waited until after dry fitting first. I put the seal on the frame first without cutting it. I walked it around pushing it against the frame as I went. I cut it a bit long with some over lap (can’t remember now but could’ve been ¼” – ½” or so). I didn’t use the rope as suggested on the 3A page (the internet wasn’t available at the time) I just curled the seal up from the bottom and then mashed the glass in the slot (mimicking what I did when I removed the glass. I did eventually use the screwdriver to lift the edge up over the glass – not dragging the blade over the glass. I don’t remember any real bad problems – it just seemed to “drop” in. I can’t remember exactly whether I compressed the seal to fit or had to go back and trim it again to fit. I seem to recall working the glass forward and backward to ensure everybody was seated just right before putting the lock strip in. I’m sure that I used the screwdriver, i.e. use what you’ve got, to mash that lock strip in as I went around (sure would like to see what that special tool looks like Bill). I now feel the RTV sealant was overkill and isn’t necessary. I do know (now) that alcohol will lubricate rubber very nicely and will dry completely afterwards. IMHO I feel this is better than soap as it doesn’t linger and is easily wiped off – if needed. When I asked during the discussion on the other forum about why the lock strip should go outside vs. inside, the poster explained it helps during compression from wind so the whole windshield doesn’t flex or move when driving. Hmm. I don’t ever remember seeing this happen. Does anyone else have observations on this? |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| oldtime | Sep 17 2012, 09:45 AM Post #14 |
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Please search the B.B. We have several detailed posts concerning W/S installation such as: http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=3346 |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| Daryl | Sep 17 2012, 10:40 AM Post #15 |
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NO SCREWDRIVERS! This usually is a pretty easy job. Get the proper tools or leave it to the professionals. Every tool store has plastic windshield tools and lock strip install tools. Never trust the length of the old seal. Seals shrink over time and how do you know the last guy got the length right. Glass cleaner that comes in a spray can is all you need for lubrication. It gives plenty of lube and slowly evaporates. I followed the search and most of what ws on the post was exactly what not to do unless you want to break glass. |
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Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts In Bonney Lake, Washington Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out. | |
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3:40 AM Jul 11