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proper fuel tank fit
Topic Started: Sep 16 2012, 01:01 PM (2,522 Views)
JROD CJ53
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I removed my fuel tank out of my jeep as threw it away after I recieved the new one, and the new one is not lining up with the holes cut in the floor for the fuel line and the drain. They are about an inch too far towards the drivers side of the holes. The neck is hitting the top of the hole when I try to move it to the right, and wedging in so that I cannot move it further to the right to line up on the holes.

I have verified the tank, but I think I have the wrong one. I have read the "Three B's tank" section on the specs/tech tips page and I think I need the 810427 instead of the 640685 tank I have now. the old tank I had(that was rusted and leaking) is the one described as the 810427(without the latch on the rear)

It it helps I have my VIN 453 GB2 33900. I didn't know if maybe since its a higher number VIN if the tank would be the one of the 54 models

An easy fix would be to re drill the holes, but I would rather see if I have the wrong tank before sending back and forth to the company I ordered from.

Suggestions?

Thank you
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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oldtime
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I can only determine that the real problem here is lack of quality control from the manufacturer.
All 3B tanks tanks should have the oulet fitting in the exact same location.
The fuel outlet fitting location never changed for any of the flatfender CJ's. (1945 -1965)
If your CJ-3B still has the original floor pan then the fuel access hole will be in the correct location.
That implies very poor quality control for the new replacement stock (NRS) tank.

If by chance the tank filler neck was wrongly positioned the same advice applies concerning quality control.

Please identify the tank manufacturer so that others can be alerted.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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JROD CJ53
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I did leave that out. Its an omix ada tank. Should I return it? and get it from another company?
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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oldtime
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Sorry, I have no advice on NRS parts because I never use NRS components.
Can someone else please advise Jared......
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Daryl
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The last couple that I have gotten have been made in Canada. No brand name, but good quality.
It can be tricky to get everything to line up with the tank, as the angle of the filler can throw the fitment off.
Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts
In Bonney Lake, Washington
Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out.
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Ratchet
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Omix stuff just dosen't fit like it should. Your old tank probbly could have been patched and lined. You should see some of the tanks I've fixed.
Georgetown, IN
A little less rust and a 53 CJ3B
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Rus Curtis
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I have also noticed quality control problems with tanks. I have three.

The one that dropped in with no problems is the one from Walck's:
http://walcks4wd.com/fuel-tank-cj2a-cj3a-and-early.html

The drains were centered on the holes and the filler neck was centered in the tub opening.

This grey one seems to be the best one yet.

JROD, when I see your serial number I notice in the parts manual that 640865 is correct up to serial number 54- 17328. My serial number is above that so I assume it has to do with the differences in the hold down strap. My course of action was to remove the tab on the back of the tank so I could use my strap that runs front to back.

From the tank page, there is a quote from Bruce describing the other tank strap:

Bruce W.: "My pretty-much-unmolested '53 has the strap cross-wise, even tho the tab that it hooks to on the left side is broken off from the tub (I found it down in there next to the tank tho). It also has a "hook" that bolts to the floor at the rear of the tank and hooks over a tab on the back of the tank."

So worry about the strap later. Get the tank to sit right on the floor.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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JROD CJ53
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Rus I have that same model tank right now, same color too.
I'm not finding any clearance issues with the tab at the rear. my strap runs across the tank, from drivers side to center hump. I sent a few emails back and forth with the distributor that I bought the tank from. They are being helpful trying to resolve the issue. They contacted Omix and Omix replied to make sure I had the correct tank, which now I'm sure I do, unless there is a way to the the older model that I replaced. It looks to be more of a Quality Control issues as Oldtime had said.

Easy solution I'm guessing would be to drill holes to match this tank, but I was trying to keep it original. There is a hole in the cross member on the tub that is obvious made for the fuel line.

Kinda frustrating that you can get the same tank for the same model jeep and one fits and another doesn't.

Would it be worth the time, to return this tank and get one from Walcks ot Kaisers? or all the tanks coming from the same factory and just going to the suppliers?
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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Rus Curtis
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Are you able to take and post pictures of what you're working with (let us see how far off the tank is)? I've not recently heard of a tank being that far off.

It may help.


I like working with Walck's. They know what they're doing and stand behind their products.

I've ordered from other places and one in particular attempted to convince me to make an incorrect part work.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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williams3b54
Williams3B54
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Again , where in the world are you located? It sure helps if we know where in the world you are so helping you will be possible. maybe I have a tank you could use or maybe I could ship you a jeep part with out it costing an arm and a leg.
It is not that hard to put your town or even just the state you live in to help with your issues.
I have used the MTS plastic tanks both in my 54 HH and my 68 CJ-5 with out issues, and they will never rust thru. the only additional thing you will need to do is ground the sending unit. The tank I have in the 54 HH is picking up the fuel from the top, no problems with the hole lining up on the bottom, or the fill neck on the left side.
I know there are some HH jeep folks that only want the original stuff, but be practical, and make it easy on your self, the plastic tanks work and nobody but you will know.
Dick W. Spokane Wa.
1954 CJ-3B
Semi-modified for trail riding in the Northwest.
See photos on CJ-3B page owners photos 1954.
1968 CJ-5/1975 231 odd fire V-6/ many other mods. ordered new from Toledo 1968.
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Bryan
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I was understood that the early 3B tanks were slightly different than the late 3B's. I have an early 3B, and I had ordered a tank from JC Whitney back in the early 90's. The tank was a little shorter, and the filler pipe was at a different angle. I had to return it and specify the early 3B tank.

The early tank has a 5 screw sending unit, and the late 3B has a 6 screw sending unit if I remember right. I know I have 5 screws on mine.

It sounds like this is your problem.



1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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JROD CJ53
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Answering a few questions, comments on this one.

I am on the West Central coast of FL in town called Tarpon Springs, I added this to my signature

The tank that I removed, and the tank that I replaced with both had the 5 hole pattern. The screw for the sending unit were a different size tho. The new ones were smaller in diameter, dont remember size off hand.

I'll gladly put up photos, I have already taken some that i sent to the company I bought the tank from. I just didn't see how to. If I can figure it out, ill put it up but if someone can inform me in the mean time it would help

But to "paint a picture" of what I'm looking at I have a bout a half dollar sized hole,and I fit my index finger in to about the second knuckle before touching the drain valve.

thanks to everyone for the responses on this one.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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Rus Curtis
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JROD,
Good Greek food there in Tarpon Springs!!!!

There's a sticky at the top that explains how to post pictures. You need a place to post pictures first, like an account with Photobucket.

After you post your pics online, then you follow directions in the sticky and post the link using the IMG button (which is above the window that you type your message in).

I'm anxious to see this tank of yours.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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JROD CJ53
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Posted Image


Posted Image

Here are the photos
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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JROD CJ53
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Posted Image

Old tank, also with 5 hole pattern for sending unit
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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