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proper fuel tank fit
Topic Started: Sep 16 2012, 01:01 PM (2,521 Views)
JROD CJ53
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I sent over the dimensions to the company I bought from and also called Kaiser willys. They use the exact same tank from Omix ada and have never had a problem. Just my luck. I am looking more towards the filler neck being the wrong angle height We'll see what they say.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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johnrb
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Yes, the fuel tank did change during the 3B model run.
There are two fuel gauge senders - 5 hole and 6 hole.
There are two ways to strap the tank down to the tub - side to side and front to rear.
But
As Ken (oldtime) said:
The fuel line fitting and the filler neck never changed. So any issues with those two items are either the (repro) tub is off or the (repro) tank is off.
Or both if you're one of the really lucky ones. :P :angry:
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
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johnrb
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JROD CJ53
 
They use the exact same tank from Omix Ada and have never had a problem.

Any time a vendor tells me that I call BS.
I've been on both sides of the customer support world for about 4 decades and any time a vendor or manufacturer told me "nobody else is having that problem" I say Liar, Liar, Pants on Fire.
I've had manufacturers for whom I was doing warranty service on the customer's site tell me stuff like that. They're saying that to me, their own service guy! 99 times out of 100 they are lying.

In the case of gas tank fitment, most guys modify what's needed to get things to fit and never bother to tell the vendor. So - maybe - they aren't lying, but I bet you are NOT the first to tell them their tanks don't fit right.
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
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jyotin
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The only indications of any interest in quality at Omni Adix is that they are careful to make the part "look" like the original. Many times they are successful at that.

However, that is where it all ends. If it actually functions or fits like the old part is only an accident, and is completely unintentional.

I'm with oldtime -- I'd rather fix an old part than use a "reproduction".

Remember that one should never throw the old part away until the new one has been installed and been functioning for a while..

j
It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today.
54 - 3B - down on the farm
67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Jeep green
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JROD CJ53
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looks like i'm going to be doing some cutting on the tub to get this in then. I was hoping not to have to, but It looks like the right way is the easiest, modify the tub to fit the tank. Thanks to all for the help. I'll make sure to measure 2 or 3 times before cutting to get it right.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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Larry (TX)
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JROD,

Omix-Ada tanks aren't the only poorly fitting vintage parts manufactured and sold nowadays! A good many parts manufactured by MD Juan in the Philippines(supposedly the king of vintage jeep parts mfg'r.) end up having the same (and sometimes worse) type problems, particularly with proper fitting body and tub items. The age old problem seems to be that there simply is no quality control being performed on an ongoing basis at these mfg. plants

Here's wishing you the best getting your tank to fit; (and don't forget that you should not sit the tank (metal to metal) directly on the tub floor). Use either 1/8" thick x 3/4" wide vinyl rubber strips, or same size hardwood or cedar strips cut on a table saw. I generally lay four such strips between tanks and floors that I install, front to back. This method will provide both a breathing and clean-out space, and hopefully prevent the tank and the floor from rusting due to moisture/water build up, etc. Makes it easy to remove debris with an air hose.
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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JROD CJ53
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Thank you Larry. I coated the tub floor with bed liner, but i'll also be putting some strips in under it to do as you described. Thanks for the dimensions.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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RamblinCJ3B
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I recently purchased a new tank for my 62. I had the same issues,but not as bad. The drain plug and fuel line are a tad off, but still within the stock holes in the body. But not centered as the original. Thankfully I saved my original tank and will have it repaired at some point.
Eddie
Clovis,Ca
1956 Willys PU
1962 USN CJ3B Stock
1971 Hurst Jeepster 350
1972 Commando 4.0 HO
1972 Commando I6 258
1975 J20 401
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johnrb
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jyotin
 
I'm with oldtime -- I'd rather fix an old part than use a "reproduction".

Me too. Though fixing a gas tank in my area (Chicago) is problematic. I can buy two or three new (repro) tanks for the cost of repairing and then lining or bladdering (is that a word?) an old tank. Most places around here simply won't work on a tank that's rusty and full of pin holes for any price.
Quote:
 
Remember that one should never throw the old part away until the new one has been installed and been functioning for a while.

And that my friends is the single most valuable piece of advise you will ever find on this or any other restoration forum.
The immediate PO of my 2nd 3B cut off the back 3/4 of the tub and sold it to the scrap yard - with the passenger seat pivots, the tool box lid and the tailgate hinges still attached. :angry:
We sold the axles off the '59 3B and then needed a few little parts for the rear axle.
:angry:

We've learned our lesson. NOTHING gets sold or scrapped until we're done and driving.
Listen to your elders Grasshopper. :P
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
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Phil...
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The Indian made tank I have has given me the same problems with filler spout actually coming into contact with the hole in the tub. I can’t see how I can get a new grommet to fit neatly in place.The old one was all bunched up and gnarly and fell apart when I took it out. So if anyone has any ideas on how to do a neat looking DIY fix....!!

I’ve now put military seats in mine and it did cross my mind to cut off the filler spout, chop it down some and refit into the top of the tank and refuel by lifting up the seat cushion. That notion sailed by after seeing this old photo which I think was taken in Australia.

Check it out; does this look like an MB backend with an MB tank and a 3B frontend... what’s going on here?

Nice isn't it? B)

Posted Image
Indian 3B


England.
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Bryan
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I can't see the back end, but the front end looks pretty nice. B)
1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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Rus Curtis
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Now that's a hood ornament!!


Phil,
The neck not centering in the housing (that part welded to the body panel) was one of my biggest frustrations with the tanks being offered over the years. The angle was too steep and either the tank sat not centered under the seat or if you added strips underneath to protect the tank, the neck would make contact. This is one reason I ended up with 3 tanks. I thought surely someone could do better. I also began thinking how I could cut and re-weld one of these to fix the neck - if I could find someone willing.

As I've stated before, the tank currently offered by Walck's has a much better angle on the filler neck. If I compare it to one of the earlier replacement tanks, I notice the neck itself is more centered on the corner whereas the earlier replacement tanks had the neck sitting higher and more on the top deck of the tank making the angle sit up higher - and therefore more difficult to have it sit properly in the jeep.

The acid test was to place the anti-squeak strips, from Beachwood, under the tank and see how it fits. It looked centered and the drain and fuel line connection also was nearly centered in their respective holes. I feel this is a vast improvement as far as "getting it right."
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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JROD CJ53
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Nice hood ornament!! I spoke with the guys at walcks and they use the exact sme tank. The guy I spoke with suggested taking a broom handle or pipe, sticking it in the filler neck and carefully bending the neck down. He explained that patch jobs to the floor, which mine most likely has, are more the reason of the not proper fit.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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Rus Curtis
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JROD,
I had to go back and re-read your posts. I didn't pick up on your suspicions that your floor has been patched (even though you suggested several times you wanted to cut the floor!!). Big mistake on me!! Anytime we deviate from an original configuration on our jeeps, we’re throwing darts while blindfolded (thinking that we’re helping). I ASSUMED (you know what that means!) your floor was original.

I also found your posted pictures at the bottom of page 1. IF those are your holes, then yes, you have a serious issue with your floor that needs attention! The holes don't look right.

My apologies: If my jeep's tub were sitting in the garage (like it has been for YEARS!!!) I'd go out and measure it and send you a photo of what the holes are supposed to look like. Alas, the body and all the other parts are still at the sand blasters. I should get it back next week and can measure then. I can post a couple of pictures to help you visualize what should exist. I can also give you "APROXIMATE" measurements to help with verifying you're in need of some cutting.

The first image is my original floor from under the tub. It shows the orientation of the holes with the hat channels. The large hole is for the drain the small hole is for the fuel line . The fuel line is still attached to the hat channel and dangling from the tub.

Posted Image

The second image is my replacement floor where the holes had to be cut in. The body shop I used up in KS didn't even have the correct hole saws and I had to finish the large hole myself with a Dremel.

Posted Image
What you should notice right off is these holes are not tiny. They are intended to be large so the tank can be positioned to get the neck in the proper place.

Both holes are 17" from the tub side. Measuring from the rear deck riser forward, the large hole is centered on about 3.5" and the smaller hole is about 6" - unfortunately, I can't confirm the size of the holes but if you TLAR'd it the small is about 1 1/4" and the large is near 3"


I hope this helps and if someone else has their tank out (or can crawl under) and verify the hole sizes perhaps we can get your problem resolved quickly.

The only other thing I'd add is to wait until you can get your tank to sit in the floor properly to decide whether you need to bend the neck 'cause if it's the holes, then your neck will most likely be centered.
Edited by Rus Curtis, Apr 26 2018, 08:30 PM.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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JROD CJ53
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Rus, that is the route I'm taking. I'm re drilling holes in the floor to where the holes on the tank line up, then adjusting the neck if needed. If all else fails, I'll chop the neck, nark it true and weld it back.

I'm sorry if I didn't put that the floor was patched. it didn't totally look like it when I was cleaning out all the crap out from under the old tank, but the floor does have some dents in it and fiberglass patching toward the center hump. it didn't seem like anything that was interfering, but if these tanks are designs for a "virgin" floor, its definitely not what I have.

With mass production there is bound to be some minor variation. I'm sure there may be a few degrees difference between the necks on the tanks, no matter what level of QC. The holes in the floor, as you can see in my pictures look like they were cut out with a can opener. this was the PO, not knocking them, but there is some "make part fit" adaptions all over my 3B that I'm trying to clean up. I'm doing the same thing myself, just trying to make it look good in the mean time.
1953 CJ3B/F134 rebuilt with 6000 miles/ Dana 25 front, 44 rear/ T90, Spicer18/ YF 938SD/12V conversion . Tarpon Springs FL
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