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Brake/master cyl mods
Topic Started: Sep 24 2012, 08:59 PM (1,010 Views)
Goose
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Okay, now that the motor and drive-train are basically done and I'm fiddling with my new hard-top...I'm ready to think about my next functional mod, the brakes.

I saw here once, a link to a kit for an 11" drum conversion for the front, or is it better to find some drums, wheel cylinders and back plates off a CJ5?

The other brake mod I wanna do is converting the master cylinder from single chamber to two. Can you fine fellas point me in the right direction.

Thanks, Goose
1963 CJ3B
Roaming the woods of WNC
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Bob
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Discs are nice, but there's a little more involved with it. You can get the dual master setup from herm the overdrive guy.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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oldtime
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Please read: http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=2591

In order to "UPGRADE" your 3B brakes I suggest that you follow this sequence:

Drum venting of existing 9" Bendix brakes may be considered to reduce wet fade.

Next consider replacing the front brakes first.
Then if more braking is desired install appropriate matching rear brakes.

10" Wagner brakes have greater stopping capacity than 9" Bendix brakes.
These can be had with manual adjusters or with automatic adjusters.
They might be considered ideal if not expensive.
Drum venting of 10" Wagner brakes may be considered to reduce wet fade.

11" Bendix brakes have greater stopping capacity than 10" Wagner brakes.
These originally came with automatic adjusters but they are not required.
These provide ample stopping capacity and weigh less than disk brakes.
Drum venting of 11" Bendix brakes may be considered to reduce wet fade.
KH wheel fit may become a problem.

Disk brakes provide less fade than drum brakes.
Proportioning valves will be required.
KH wheel fit is certainly a problem.

Install federal mandated (1967) split bore master cylinder designed for CJ.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Goose
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Thanks Bob and oldtime. Whats a KH wheel?
1963 CJ3B
Roaming the woods of WNC
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oldtime
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Original equipment / Kelsey Hayes Mfg.
Looks like your wheels are not a concern.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Bryan
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I did a front disc brake conversion on mine. I got s set off of a 77-78 CJ-5 (with the thick rotors. The mods included:

-I replaced the spindle bolts with studs. The steering knuckle is threaded, and it was suggested on Dr. Verns page that the tapped holes be bored out and studs installed from the inside. This was a couple of bucks at a local machine shop.

-The rotor uses a different inside wheel bearing. I looked up the timken numbers and was able to find the correct bearing that had the OD for the rotor hub and the ID for the original spindle. Different inside seal also.

-The steering knuckle will need to be ground down a little for caliper clearance.

-You will need to revise your front brake lines. I ran new lines up the frame to the front left and across the round crossmember under the radiator to the passenger side. I ran the hoses from the caliper to new brackets on the frame to connect to the brake lines, rather than hose down to the front axle and then hose to each caliper.

-The calipers end up on the lower quadrant of the rotor, and the bleeder is not at the top, so to bleed the brakes you will need to take the calipers off of the bracket and hang them with the bleeder up. Kind of a pain, but you don't need to do it all the time.

-I had also installed a dual master cylinder (Herms kit), and installed in-line residual valves for the front and back (Herm missed that in the master cylinder, and it was easier to plumb them in than deal cross country with Herm.)

-I did not install a proportional valve. The only balance test I did was to drive down an gravel road with a partner and lock the brakes up. They all locked up together. On pavement, I don't dive or squat, so I figured it's good enough.

-As Oldtime stated, if you want to install original wheels, you will need to do some grinding on the inside. I ground the tabs off where the center disc meets the rim, and nothing rubs. Still very close, but a gap is a gap.

As a note, I also installed 11" self adjusting brakes in back off of an early 70's Wagoneer. I am nothing but pleased with the brakes. The disc brakes may be overkill, but it feels like power brakes, and the pads should last forever. I'm more comfortable driving it than I've ever been.

1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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Daryl
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http://shop.rp4wd.com/product/drum-kit-2

http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/?page_id=828

Doesn't get any easier then this. Both R&P and Herm can get you everything you need.
Lotsa Jeeps, and a few extra parts
In Bonney Lake, Washington
Always willing to look at a Jeep for you BEFORE you buy it to check it out.
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Bob_webber
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i just installed discs on mine and they are great, it is like having power brakes.
another great part of disc brakes is that i can tie my calipers up and remove the front axle while never having to bleed brakes.
i plan to eventually go with rear disc also.

i used international scout rotors
calipers off a 77 blazer
flex hoses of 77 blazer
caliper mount off 70's chev half ton
a little grinding on the knuckles

i still need to plumb my adjustable proportioning valve (wilwood, ebay)
i also have a wilwood residual pressure valve to reduce pedal throw. right now it takes 2 pumps to achieve full lockup on front wheels, hoping the rpv will solve this

i also painted my calipers red and i can see them through my rims. :D
53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was

bob, north east Ohio
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