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Heater Switch Clarification; GROUP 35-21
Topic Started: Sep 28 2012, 08:08 AM (854 Views)
Rus Curtis
Member
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In my Parts Manual, the Heater Switch is part #669737. I've always assumed this was the Bake Lite 3-postition switch that is attached on the lip under the instrument panel.

On vernco.com, http://www.vernco.com/Heater/id584.htm ,

about half-way down, he has an image of this switch with the description, "part number 815084, with 669737 penciled next to it."

Are they the same? Did one replace the other? Are they different but interchangeable? Is there a differentiation based on vehicle voltage, i.e. 6V vs. 12V?
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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It appears to me that the Harrison type heater was not even available before late 1949.
Therefore I expect that it was only installed onto some new CJ-3A's and also some early vintage CJ-3B's.
A dealer could sell and or install a Harrison heater kit.
In that way CJ-2A owners could aquire one for their "used" jeep.

Part number 669737 surfaces near the end of 1949 as a part of the Harrison heater kit.
This switch is specifically intended for use with 6 volt Harrison heater systems.
Part number 815084 appears to have surfaced in 1957.
This switch is specifically intended for use with 12 volt Harrison heater systems.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Rus Curtis
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Perfect! Thank you!

At this point it would seem a good idea to take this information and run with it.

However, I can't help but ask a follow on.

When I look at images of this switch, I notice it has a stud on top intended to be inserted through a hole on the bottom edge of the instrument panel.

The currently available switch provided by most vendors uses a clamp that can be attached anywhere along the bottom edge (as long as your wires reach).

For those of you having either switch, 669737 or 815084, where is it attached along the instrument panel? I'm wondering if it has a specified location or just ended up where ever the installer put it.

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Bryan
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My 54 has a Harrison heater, and the original heater switch was the type shown in Dr. Vern's picture, with the flat multi position toggle. It broke many moons ago, back when I didn't realize the benefit of keeping old parts. My brother in law found a replacement switch, but it is the type that has a white knob that turns, and clamps onto the bottom of the dash. I finally got around to installing it a few years ago when I replaced the wiring harness, but the heater didn't work. I assumed the motor was bad, but never followed up. If the switch was for a 12 V motor, would it work on a 6V? It seems like it should.
1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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Rus Curtis
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Bryan,
I don't know how these switches work. I'd assume (dangerous) a 12V switch would work on 6V but just not as good. Similar to a bulb or a fuel tank float.

Does your instrument panel (dash) have a hole in the bottom edge, perhaps somewhere near the hand brake handle?
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Bryan
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Rus,

I do have a hole in the bottom flange of the dash for the old heater switch. As close as I can measure standing on my head with poor eyesight and lighting, it looks like its a 1/4" hole or slightly less, and is located approx 4-1/8" to the right of the dash brace bolt that is under the E-brake handle.
1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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Bob
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Bob
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I put one of those new switches in that I bought off ebay. My harrison is a 12 volt, and I was assured the switch would be fine...that was just not the case. That switch heated up like a toaster and was smoking. I got ahold of the seller, her sent me several more to try, all with the same results. I ended up at a hot rod shop and bought a decent one.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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Rus Curtis
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@Bryan, "approx 4-1/8"?" Okay, that sounds like a good estimate and I think I can work with that!!

@Bob, on the vernco website he mentions the back of the switch getting real hot but smoking is a bit different.

I'd be real cautious about using anything rated for 6V on a 12V system, just as we've discussed multiple times about the starter potentially burning out faster, as too much energy would be trying to pass through a circuit not designed to handle the load.

Depending on what it is, I would like to think a safer mismatch would be trying to pass 6V through a 12V system.

I've got one of these switches headed my way, so I'll get a good look at one and will eventually hook it up and see how it behaves.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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The wire inside a rheostat type switch acts as a resistor.
As Rus states putting 12 volts onto a 6 volt rheostat is a no no in my book.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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