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Hurricane valve adjustment; How-to videos
Topic Started: Oct 4 2012, 09:43 PM (1,396 Views)
Doug
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Meridian, Idaho
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Greg (gianas) made the suggestion some time ago that someone should make a video on how to adjust valves and it stuck in my mind. Since I was rebuilding a Hurricane, I figured there was no better time to video the adjustment procedures than when it was on the engine stand all clean and pretty and before the exhaust manifold was in the way.

I realize that many already know how to properly adjust the valves and have done it many more times than I have.

Many thanks to Ken (Oldtime) for his thorough explanation of the "opposing valve" method and for proofing the videos once they were made.

Hope these help someone out :)

EXHAUST VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT

INTAKE VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT
1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator
1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18
2004 TW 200
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Lawrence
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Lawrence
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Doug,
What else could one ask for?
A great job.
Please continue to keep us informed.
Also thanks to Ken.

Lawrence
1955 CJ3B
Family Tradition
Decatur, AL
~~"Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it"~~
~~"We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails"~~
http://cj3b.info/Owners/Wade.html
http://cj3b.info/Events/SEWillys2017.html
http://cj3b.info/Owners/WadeRiver.html
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gianas
Member
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Without exaggeration, this is better than any Christmas I've ever had. Had to say thank you to Doug/Santa Claus even before I opened the links. Anything with pictures and instructions for a novice—who is intimidated by mechanical things more than anything else in life—is a big-time, literal blessing.
greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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gianas
Member
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I believe it's not easy for most "men" to thank someone for explaining what's "obvious" and "old news" to the supposed majority in a watchful group, because that would reveal "ignorance level." Nevertheless, I hope those who have paid relative strangers hundreds of dollars to do this important, valve-adjustment job—and who have now "seen" the procedure performed well enough to try it themselves—will voice their appreciation of the time Doug and Oldtime generously and kindly offered.

Paying someone else to grind burned values, because I didn't know how to adjust the valves myself, isn't something I want to repeat. Who's gonna take the time to teach me? Doug just did. Thanks, Doug and OT.

Two, initial questions:

1. I remember OT once writing that one of the values runs hotter because of its proximity to coolant, and the implication (to me) is that one valve might run relatively "colder" because of proximity to coolant. Do these realities have any effect on which valves you want to make sure you've triple checked in the adjustment process?

2. What are the symptoms of too-loose and too-tight intake and exhaust values? Are there any symptoms? (When I burned the valves on the second car I owned, it was two days after I paid someone to adjust them. I had no "feel" or sense, no indication or "sign," that I was burning my exhaust valves until my drive across the country was completed and I had the valves adjusted the day after arriving "home.")

Doug, you did a fine job on the videos. They are a clearly valuable gift to anyone who knows no teachers or is afraid to ask to be taught.

greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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I give Doug a two thumbs up for his videos !
Crisp film quality, correct terminology, correct procedure.
Doug's video shows the correct standard adjustment procedure.

On a freshly rebuilt engine I prefer to adjust each lash so that a stiff drag is produced on the feeler blade.
A stiff feeler drag but not so stiff as to bend / flex the feeler blade.
This means that each valve will open more by about .001" an inch.
Realize that new valves enter into a break in cycle meaning that the lash will increase slightly.

Greg,
1) The relative hot and cold areas of the engine has virtually no effect upon valve adjustment technique and procedure.
For a long service life the Hurricane engine needs to have the valves well maintained.
Poorly maintained valves may cause a block deck crack to form between the #2 and #3 exhaust valves.
2) It may or may not be impossible for one to to determine if valve lash is correctly adjusted on a given engine.
The only indicator beyond actual observation is via the sound produced by the tappets.
Determining an incorrect tappet noise level is only possible if you have heard correctly adjusted valve lash for a given engine.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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8305
Member
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Doug,
Excellent picture quality. These short films are good for somebody who never done it before. Please, check the valve spring orientation, they look upside down to me.
'60 M38A1
1/4 ton trailer
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Doug
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Meridian, Idaho
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8305,Oct 6 2012
06:41 AM
they look upside down to me.

I sure hope not :(

Which ones appear to be upside down? I installed the exhaust valves springs in the block, but the machine shop put the ones on the head.

Thanks for the heads up!
1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator
1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18
2004 TW 200
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8305
Member
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Hi Doug,
The #1 exhaust is suspect, but check them all. The coils closest windings should be near the head, in the case of side valves, to the block.
Zoli
'60 M38A1
1/4 ton trailer
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spm1us
Member
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Great job on the video Doug! I was taught the "IC-EO" method for running the lash on the valves. It works on any engine regardless of size or valve configuration. It is the simplest method and you do not have to follow the firing order. Just set the exhaust valve when the cylinder's Intake Closes (IC) and then set the intake valve when the cylinder's Exhaust Opens (EO). You can run the lash in order from front to back and don't have to alternate from cylinder to cylinder. I always teach beginner's to use a set of feeler gauge blades .001 over and under the desired setting. We call it the "GO/NO GO" method. Until a person gets a feel for the desired drag at the desired setting, it's always works and is much safer. All the Best, Sam Michael Jr, Jax, FL
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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The intake is closed when the exhaust is open method is not an optimum method for the Willys 134 engines.
If you look at the relative positions of the camshafts lobes you can readily understand why it is not optimum.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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spm1us
Member
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Just for clarification, the Exhaust valve lash adjustment should be made when the Intake Valve begins to Close and the Intake valve lash adjustment should be made when the Exhaust Valve begins to Open. All the cam manufacturers I know, such as Comp Cams, Crane, Lunati, Isky, Crower, Reed, etc. use and recommend the "IC-EO" method. If you were visit any NHRA, AHRA, Nascar, IMSA, SCCA, ARCA, WOO, etc pit you will find all the mechanics using the "IC-EO" method as it places the camshaft's base circle in the optimum position for adjusting that particular cylinder's valve - it is a very efficient and expeditious method of "running" the valves. I would wager huge sums of your money that any reputable race team would risk losing an engine or any horsepower over any method that is not the best, especially considering the investment of time, energy and potential loss of a win along with the potential ramifications. I wholeheartedly recommend using whatever method you feel most comfortable with - as long as you have the correct clearance it is immaterial at how you achieve it. All the Best, Sam Michael Jr, Jax, FL
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gianas
Member
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I'll have to try the methods recommended before I can fully understand what's being said here. I don't think the experts can fully comprehend the level to which my brain doesn't "get" mechanical stuff unless I have a wrench in oiled hands and am actually doing what's recommended.

It's a bit like riding a bicycle: Those who know how to do ride bikes say "It's a piece of cake." However, those who have never been on a bike have a different perspective, which bike riders have long forgotten.

Also, I still stick with the belief that when a guy goes out of his way to video something "not a piece of cake" for novices, he should be thanked.

One video is better than no video, especially for novices with busted brains. It's a concrete, visual place to begin. ... "I say potato; you say potahto." The vegetable will still taste the same. Maybe this potato analogy doesn't fit in this case; I surely don't know, yet. But, if every guy who tries to help someone else gets slammed, who's gonna try and help the novices ... the ones who need the most help? Knowledge may be power, but all power doesn't need to be wielded. Greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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oldtime
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MODERATOR
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Sam,
We certainly appreciate your insight and experienced input.
But this forum is specified as CJ-3B and it has virtually nothing to do with NHRA etc.

In todays world only a relatively few camshafts are of an industrial design like that of the Willys 134's.
The cam lobe profile is more similar to that of an old vintage tractor.
The Hurricane engine will likely never be seen at any sanctioned NHRA event.

If you bother looking closely at a Hurricane camshaft.
You will see that each lobe heel is only at its lowest point when opposite that of the opposing cylinder.
Doug shows us the camshaft lobes in the intake video.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Doug
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Meridian, Idaho
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No worries guys, apparently there are numerous different methods used to adjust the valves. The Jeep Rebuilders Manual that I was using listed two or three different methods.

Ken's method of opposing valve made absolute sense to me (once I had the camshaft in my hands looking at it) and it is the method I chose to use.

Any other opinions on whether I have some of the springs in wrong? from what I can tell, they're in right. Exhaust valve springs all appear to have tighter coils up and the intake valve springs the tighter coils are down.
1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator
1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18
2004 TW 200
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8305
Member
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Quote:
 
Exhaust valve springs all appear to have tighter coils up

Doug, if you look at your video (exhaust) you can clearly see at 1:42 or 5:02 that the tight windings are close to the retainer not the block.
'60 M38A1
1/4 ton trailer
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