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Hurricane valve adjustment; How-to videos
Topic Started: Oct 4 2012, 09:43 PM (1,397 Views)
oldtime
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MODERATOR
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I sure don't mean to discredit Sams method.
The opposing valve method was stricktly derived through my own observations.
My method applies because two cylinders directly oppose one another.
Cylinder #1 directly opposes cylinder #4 clylinder while #2 directly opposes cylinder #3.
Using this opposing method there is zero chance of being off from the lobe heel.
It also helps one to understand how each cylinder performs the Otto cycle.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Doug
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Meridian, Idaho
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8305,Oct 8 2012
11:55 AM
Doug, if you look at your video (exhaust) you can clearly see at 1:42 or 5:02 that the tight windings are close to the retainer not the block.

I'm thinking it is just the angle that the video was shot at. When I looked at the video, I agree that the tight windings appear down. When I went out to look, the tight windings appear to be at the top. Here is a picture of #1 exhaust valve spring:

Posted Image

Now here is what may be a stupid question: What would the ramification be if the spring was put in upside down and the engine ran that way?
1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator
1969 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-14, D-18
2004 TW 200
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gianas
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please cancel fear of asking a stupid question; someone like me will learn something significant from whomever might give a serious answer. greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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