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mounting tub
Topic Started: Oct 6 2012, 07:24 PM (953 Views)
steve
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Its been so long since I had my jeep together is there any rubber mounts at the very front where the tub attaches to the side of the frame ? ps I'm going to use an old rubber mud flap from a truck that is about a half inch (maybe more) thick for mounts tried some thinner rubber but,I need this thickness or more to prevent the e-brake drum from rubbing on the tub. does this sound right?
thanks Steve
I will post picts asap
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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Rus Curtis
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Steve,
I did a quick search in the BB as I know this topic has been covered before. The post I found referenced information on the Tech page under Mounting a Repro Tub. I could not access the CJ3B page right away so when I can tomorrow, I'll edit this post.

Specifically, your answer can also be found in a Parts Manual. The front mounts that attach on the side of the frame (near the toe board gussets) is number 1 body hold down. From there you count back along the frame and will count up to 6 by the time you hit the rear cross member.

The Parts Manual lists two sizes for the liners for number one body hold down:

Thick - 3/16"
Thin - 1/8"

The bolts are 3/8"-24 x 1" plus a lock washer and plain washer, 2 ea.

When you get to the next hold downs, number 2 body hold down (center of your floor board and adjacent the rear engine support crossmember) and the next one, number 3 body hold down (under the tank drivers side and inside the tool box passenger side) these are the closest to the Hand Brake on the back of the transfer case.

The PM lists 2 different sizes of liners for these:

Number 2 body hold down - 1/8"
Number 3 body hold down - 1/4"

Numbers 4-6 body hold downs all show 1/8" liner

I'm not sure why your hand brake drum would contact the tub using these thicknesses, but obviously you'll want to ensure you have clearance.

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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steve
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Thanks Rus, I should have known to ref. the tech page. What do you think about making my own rubber mounts,are the ones you buy softer? I have thick and thin pieces to use. Steve
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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Rus Curtis
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Steve,
I bought mine from Walck's (measuring 1.5" x 3" with a .75" hole centered). The ones showcased in the BB post discussing this used an old tire. Many others have used alternate substitutes (including a real hockey puck!).

What you end up using will depend on your desire for it to be accurate, what you have readily available and your personal preferences. The original liners and tires are very similar in that there is a core of woven fiber incased in rubber.

Until the 3B page is accessable, read here:

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=3600

If it comes up in text form only, look at the top and click on "View Full Version" to see images.

I don't think you want to put too much in between the tub and frame as other clearances could become a factor. Suggest starting with the minimum and add to it if necessary.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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Kaiser and AMC Jeep supplied sections of tire sidewall that are cut and drilled for the body mounting applications.
Sometimes the # 1 body hold downs will require a 1/2" rubber thickness in order to center the tub onto the frame.
Sometimes one can bend the body brackets to help equalize the Right and Left.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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steve
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Thanks guys, I was out in the garage today messing with it and I took out the 1/2" thick mud flaps out and found an old conveyer belt piece that is a 1/4" thick used a hole saw and that seems to be looking pretty good for height . working from front to back.as I get a hole lined up I insert a bolt move to the other side and insert another loosely. What I see now is the brake and clutch arms are not centered in their holes they look to be off by a 1/2 or so of center.Should I take the arms off heat and bend them a little, I don't think I can get anymore left or right movement of tub to center the arms. thanks again Steve
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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Rus Curtis
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Steve,
Without seeing what you're talking about, there are several things that could be going on.

IF your tub is original and IF you have all the bolts in and IF your clutch pedal shaft is in good condition and properly assembled, THEN your pedals should pretty much be in the center of the holes on the toe board.

With the liners being added between your tub and frame, you aren't reorienting the tub left or right at an appreciable amount. The holes are still in the same location.

I think there's a better solution than bending your pedal arms!
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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steve
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thanks Rus, I was out there last night and when I look at the shaft from the side it appears to be alittle off to the rear which would throw off the alignment but looking from underneath it looks straight.Tub is original I brought it to Sheldon Greene in Maine for panels and such . Pedal shaft is original rivetted to frame is it possible that it is bent ?although pedals do move smoothly and do not bind. D o you think I could shim the master cyl. and the pedals a bit to get it closer to center or should I attempt to heat and try to bend alittle. Thanks Steve
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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Rus Curtis
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Steve,
Again, without seeing it, I'm hesitant to offer a fix. I'd hate to give bad advice.

Prior to your addressing the tub to frame liners (and before you had body work done by Sheldon (RIP), were your pedals off-centered?

I had a floppy brake pedal when my jeep was purchased. Somewhere along the line, a PO had wrapped the pedal shaft with a plastic sleeve to help keep it from flopping over too far. This naturally began to wear on the opening in the toe board.

Turner 4WD advised me wear on the brake pedal was typical. They sent me a bearing kit to rebuild the shaft/ pedals that made them work properly. Do you have side to side play?

This may affect your braking. I'd find the problem first. Again, I think there's a better solution than bending your pedals. Even if you bent them, whatever's causing them to be off-centered is still there and if it's wear, then it'll only get worse. Then what? Bend more?

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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The body tub must be positioned onto a srtraight frame.
Did you first check the frame for alighnment as shown in the Universal Service Manual ?

Next you fit the tub to the frame.
First align the 4 holes at the rear crossmember.
This should very nearly provide the correct fore / aft position.
Adjust the Right/ Left position by aligning the #2 and #3 body mount holes to the center of their respective frame brackets.
Finally make sure that the correct bolt fits into all of the body mount locations.
Ad just enough rubber between the body and the frame to fill in the gaps.
The #1 body mount location is the least important of all and can be bent if needed.

The pedal shaft holes may or may not line up perfectly.
If the pedal pivot has excess play it should be addressed as a seperate issue.
Bending of the pedal shaft levers is not a normal procedure for a stock standard CJ.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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steve
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Rus, Thanks for your help/input . I do remember the pedals being off alittle (heard them rub the tub) There is some side to side movement about an 1/8" what I did this A.M. was move the washers so the shaft was over alittle more to the right and the clutch pedal is now flush with the end of the shaft and put a washer between the master cyl. and the mount plate so the rod for it is in line with it. I think it is the best that I can do to center the pedals. It is not perfect but it does not rub. Steve
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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Rus Curtis
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Okay. But when you can, you may want to see what the shaft end of the brake arm looks like. I would not be surprised to hear it is worn.

I haven't needed to ask since mine was fixed, but would hope those friction bearings to fix the slop are still available.

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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steve
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Thanks guys for all help, pedals are looking good. Steve
54 CJ3B ~ up and running ~ Tiger Top installed
Suffern,NY
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