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| repairing common, bumper-flange cracks; with photos, for other novices like me | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 8 2012, 02:09 PM (531 Views) | |
| gianas | Oct 8 2012, 02:09 PM Post #1 |
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Below, you'll see cracks (tears) in each flange attaching a bumper on a 1954 3B to the frame. The cracks are above the shackle and in between the three rivets, not hard to miss if you know where to look; but they're "much" easier to see in these photos than with the naked eye. In a post about I wrote recently, asking where to properly attach tow-bar brackets, I was told to first look for these cracks, which I hadn't seen before and didn't know to look for them there. Then, I asked what was the proper way to weld such cracks, and OT gave a rather precise answer, which was welcomed. Below, you'll find OT's answer about repairing these cracks. I figure that if there are any other people on this forum who aren't welders and are thinking of attaching a tow bar, then this information may be as useful to you as it was to me. OT's instructions follow, and photos of my flange cracks follow OT's instructions. greg ___ "The cracks should be Vee'd out. The flange thickness is about 1/8" thick. The crack should be narrowly Vee'd out to a depth about 3/4 of it's thickness. Cracks should be welded on the top while using a copper backing on the bottom. The backing prevents the molten metal from blowing through the root of the Vee. Use a 60 or 70 series filler electrode. Use SMAW, (stick) GMAW (mig) or even the GTAW (tig) method. A good weld will reveal full metal penetrartion (melting) when the backing is removed and it is viewed from the bottom side. The top side of the finished weld should have a relatively flat and uniform crown." from Oldtime ___ ![]()
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Greg Gianas Redmond, Washington 1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong, last vehicle I'll probably ever own, purchased May 2012; first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories | |
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| oldtime | Oct 8 2012, 06:51 PM Post #2 |
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Yes those are the typical stress cracks that are generally found on these frames. They are caused from the frame attempting to flex beyond the spring suspension provided. The bumper section does not flex so the spring pivot brackets are stressed from severe frame and leaf spring flex. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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3:39 AM Jul 11