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Stranded. Need help.
Topic Started: Nov 24 2012, 05:37 PM (2,128 Views)
Bob
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Bob
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That little knurled thing pulls out a little bit on a spring and there should be a hole under that you drop oil into
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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ehrawn
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I'm back. What's the next step if it stopped running, again? I tried to take it for a spin around the block this morning, but it was doing the same thing as before: cranking over but not lighting off. There's no way the points could have burned out after 2 min of run time the other night. I changed the condenser for good measure, but no luck. I checked the points (clean and gap is good), I pulled the plugs (covered in gas). I got spark at the plug when I cranked it over. I'm at a loss.
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bob in NC
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you nned to find a decent local mechanic, probably someone older who knows about old cars.
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oldtime
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Quote:
 
I pulled the plugs (covered in gas). I got spark at the plug when I cranked it over.

This most likely indicates incorrect ignition timing.
Or possible intermitant coil function.

I suggest that you address the ignition timing.
From the pics it appears that your distributor is an IAD 4008.
That Autolite model is correct for your particular Jeep model and vintage.

Please read the following information concerning indexing of the distributor:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/DistributorInstall.html

You only need be concerned with factory standard indexing for the IAD 4008.

After indexing ....you need to adjust the distributor via the advance arm.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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ehrawn
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Timing doesn't seem right, though. It ran fine up until my recent troubles: three laps around the block and a short drive to the gas station where it died. I didn't notice anything that would indicate a timing issue. Maybe it moved a little bit, but it should still run, albeit poorly. I haven't moved the distributer off of where the PO set it. Keep in mind, the engine, wiring, etc. has about 1000 miles on a rebuild (knowledgable builder). Coil, plugs, wires, everything in the distributor are all clean. It's hard for me to believe something would have failed, unless it was not properly adjusted, like points. Bob's probably right. It's tough learning a new engine and being out of practice with the basics. I need a good mechanic. Anyone know a guy on Oahu?

[edit] oldtime, looking at the picture from the link, maybe my index is off a tooth.
3B Page:
Posted Image
Mine:
Posted Image

Would it have been able to run if it wasn't indexed properly?
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Bryan
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Here's a picture of the orientation of my distributor. According to the information I've seen here, my oil pump is not in the right orientation. However, as long as #1 fires when it is supposed to, and you have the correct firing sequence, it should run fine.

Also, others will need to weigh in, but isn't it true that the distributor only goes in one way in the oil pump shaft slot?

Note the position of the cap clips compared to the other photos.

Posted Image
1954 CJ3B...Original: F-134, T90, D18, Front and rear axles, Ross steering, Harrison heater, all body parts
Replaced parts: Carter YF938SD.
Upgrades: Front disc brakes (77 CJ5), rear 11" brakes (early 70's Wagoneer), dual master cylinder (Herm), roll bar, seat belts, custom wiring harness w/ turn signals (me), Carter glass bowl fuel filter, Tightsteer.
3rd generation of original owner
South central KY
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oldtime
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ehrawn,
You can do this without help.
It is nearly mandatory that all old Jeep owners become their own mechanics.
It is only by your own hand that you can come to know the jeeps true condition.

As stated before it remains plausable that the coil itself is no longer servicable.
If you have a digital or an analog multimeter it can be tested.
I would test the coil if possible.
http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=3561

It is obvious to me that the distributor was not correctly indexed for your IAD 4008.
The # 1 tower should be at 5 o'clock position not 6 o'clock as is shown.
Ideally that should be corrected but in fact it will not effect the ignition timing of and by itself.
This information is only correct for the IAD's because of their unique index arm ability to rotate 360*.

It is important that old jeep owners come to understand the method and function of static timing.
The following information is only valid for IAD's in conjunction wiith a correctly indexed oil pump.

STATIC TIMING Autolite model IAD

Rotate crankshaft about 1/4 turn CCW from TDC.
Now turn slowly clockwise till you reach 5* BTC. (do not rotate beyond 5* BTC)
Remove distributor cap. Note rotor should be at 5 o' clock.
Loosen distributor advance arm (clamp) just enough to allow adjusting by hand.
Rotate distributor so the breaker follower is centered upon the high portion of the cam lobe.
With a wide feeler gauge set the breaker point gap to .020".
Make sure the contact points are squarely aligned. If not you may bend them slightly.
After adjusting tighten the breaker in position.
Turn distributor about 1 hour (30*) counterclockwise.
Turn on ignition.
Turn distributor slowly clockwise until a spark is observed at the contact breaker.
Turn ignition off.
Tighten distributor advance arm. (clamp)
The ignition is now static timed.
It is plenty good enough to operate the engine under most all conditions.
Fine tuning the ignition is desired not required.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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ehrawn
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Sorry it took so long to get back, but life kind of got away from me for a couple months.

I would like to confirm that it was a timing issue. I set the static timing as OT laid out and the F134 is back to running just like it did before. I also figured out how the timing could be off when the distributor advance arm was still tight: the distributor shaft has about 20 degrees of play in it, meaning the points can go from open to closed without the distributer rotating. I haven't pulled the distributer or oil pump to figure out where the play is originating from, but, before I do, is this normal for an F134?
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oldtime
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Yes, the rotor rotation indicates the centrifugal advance.
You should feel a slight spring pressure as you advance the rotor.
Notable side motion of the rotor shaft is not acceptable.
That indicates a worn distributor shaft or shaft bushing inside the housing.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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ehrawn
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The rotation was too free to just be the advance mechanism. i was afraid that something was busted inside. I finally got around to pulling the breaker plate assembly off to inspect the advance weights and springs and am happy to report that everything is fine. Now that I know how to get it running again, i'm not too worried about the little bit of looseness in rotation.

Now, on to the next bit of trouble... a leaking carb.
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Bob
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You may want to think about ordering a rebuilt, correct distributor for your jeep. I had the same thing going on with mine, the bushing had a lot of play in it, making the timing jump all over the place. I had mine rebuilt locally, but you probably don't have that option.

Boy, if I were coming to Hawaii, I'd bring one with me.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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