Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Home

Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the discussion forums section of the website CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived in the Tech Tips section of the website. If you post a tech problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it may be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.

Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.

Google
WWW CJ-3B Bulletin Board
You're currently viewing the forums as a guest. This means there are some features you can't use. If you register, you'll be able to post messages and use member-only features such as customizing your profile and sending personal messages. Registration is simple and free.


Join the CJ-3B Bulletin Board!


If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
slop in steering; I know that this is common
Topic Started: Dec 15 2012, 07:29 PM (1,068 Views)
Galen
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Been a while since I have checked in so here goes...Seems that one of the weak spots on cj's is their steering- never precise but mine may be worst than what can be expected. I have the typical slop, but I have pretty much replaced all in the steering box and I have the "tight steer" product. So I'm moving on to the drag link and pitman arm. I noticed that the end caps could be tightened up and I have done so but need a drag link socket (tool) to get them snug. I have replaced the tie rod ends but not the bell crank- I imagine that could be contributing to my problem and I know that there are bell crank repair kits out there. Have I missed anything?
1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow-
1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon
1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military
1967 Plymouth Valiant
Culpeper, VA
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Don
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
There are several good articles on the "Specs and Tech Tips" page under
"Group 23 : Steering".

After 50 years of use, most all steering linkage parts are worn out.
Don Norris
Southeast, NC

1953 CJ3B
1959 Jeep Pickup
195? M100 trailer
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The trail never ends
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If lovin' Jeeps is wrong,
I don't wanta be right.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
johnrb
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Galen,Dec 15 2012
07:29 PM
... steering box ... "tight steer" ...  drag link ... tie rod ends ... not the bell crank ...

You've covered almost everything.
Get the bell crank tightened up - new bushing.
Then check king pins and wheels bearings.
When all of that is good and your toe in is set correctly, that's all of it.
The Ross steering system has gotten a bad rap over the decades, mostly from people with loose parts in the system. It ALL has to be snug and adjusted correctly to perform as advertised.

And don't forget tires. I've had guys blame their steering for wandering on the road when it was simply lousy tires.

I have new tires on my 3B and all the steering components fixed except for the Ross box itself. I have 8" of free play in the steering wheel and it's all in the Ross box. But because everything else is good, it tracks straight down the road with no wobble or wandering. Once I get the Ross box fixed, it'll be like a showroom new vehicle.

A system is only as good as its weakest link.
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Galen
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Well I bit the bullet and removed the steering gear, pressed in the 2 new brass bushings and had my local machine shop ream them- the sector shaft is snug but not tight so that may have been a contributor to my problem. I also discovered that there was a ball bearing missing ( should be 11 per race in the box. I ordered a bearing kit fro Carl Walack. I think that this may have been the reason for the up and down motion of the steering shaft since there wad too much room left in the bearing race with a missing ball. To recap, the sector shaft is new, new bushings, steering shaft, seal, and gasket. Once the bearings arrive, I will button her up.
1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow-
1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon
1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military
1967 Plymouth Valiant
Culpeper, VA
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
div4gold
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
johnrb,Dec 17 2012
08:30 AM
Galen,Dec 15 2012
07:29 PM
... steering box ... "tight steer" ...  drag link ... tie rod ends ... not the bell crank ...

You've covered almost everything.
Get the bell crank tightened up - new bushing.
Then check king pins and wheels bearings.
When all of that is good and your toe in is set correctly, that's all of it.
The Ross steering system has gotten a bad rap over the decades, mostly from people with loose parts in the system. It ALL has to be snug and adjusted correctly to perform as advertised.

And don't forget tires. I've had guys blame their steering for wandering on the road when it was simply lousy tires.

I have new tires on my 3B and all the steering components fixed except for the Ross box itself. I have 8" of free play in the steering wheel and it's all in the Ross box. But because everything else is good, it tracks straight down the road with no wobble or wandering. Once I get the Ross box fixed, it'll be like a showroom new vehicle.

A system is only as good as its weakest link.


"The Ross steering system has gotten a bad rap over the decades, mostly from people with loose parts in the system. It ALL has to be snug and adjusted correctly to perform as advertised. "

I remember a lot of the older cars steering gear box had an adjustment nut with a screw in the center. You could loosen the nut and screw in the center screw and remove a lot of steering wheel play. Does the Ross box have any adjustment like that?
Old retired fart living in Ione, WA. I have a 1964 CJ3B. Recently overhauled original motor, transmission and overdrive. 11" Bronco drum brakes on all 4. Needs a new coat of paint but that will have to wait till next summer, it's next summer and I'm working on that now :) UPS & FEDEX will continue to profit :)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Galen
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Yes, there is an adjusting screw on the side of the box. Carl offers a neat device called "Tight Steer" a spring loaded thing that keeps constant pressure on the sector shaft inside the box. This helps with the slop but as you pointed out, ALL components need to be up to spec. I am sorry I was so stupid to not have replaced the bushing when I had the unit out during my initial rebuild. Live and learn- never put off the task when you have easy access especial something critical like steering and brakes.
1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow-
1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon
1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military
1967 Plymouth Valiant
Culpeper, VA
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
johnrb
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
So far the response from those who have bought TightSteer is very positive. This from guys with already good steering on their CJs. They say that the TightSteer makes it even more positive, especially off-road.
So I ordered one. I'll report back after it's in.
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeeper50
Member Avatar
ol' skool jeeper jeff
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
The bellcrank can generate alot of slop. Have a helper slowly rotate the steering wheel slightly back and forth while you lay in front of the jeep (not running of couse) and using your fingers feel for play between the drag link/bellcrank and all other steering parts. If your jeep is like mine was it will probably surprise you how much play you find. :blink:

If all is well move on to the front axle king pins, elevate front wheels and shake top and bottom and side to side while your buddy holds the steering wheel solid. Of course share a cold one with your helper so they will be ready to return to help again!!! B)
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country


Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
rodpanhard
Member
[ *  ]
steering was not good on my jeep,so after carrying out all of the above adjustments recomended by cj3b owners, my steering was still vague,In australia we drive on the left hand side of the road as you are all aware,so I wondered if the conversion to right hand drive was the problem,To cut a long story short I installed a ''panhard bar'' at the front, and a steering damper.These modifications instantly cured my steering. Since the first restoration in 1977 the jeep has covered 60-80 thousand miles,the steering is still very good.It is now undergoing its second resto, when I have worked out how to send photos i'll send some showing my steering setup it has worked well for me.
Regards to all rodpanhard
rpmart2003@yahoo.com.au
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
oldtime
Member Avatar
MODERATOR
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
rodpanhard,
Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board !

It's GREAT to see other members on a 2nd succesive rebuild.

My 1953 3B was thoroughly rebuilt by myself in 1985.
I drove it long and hard and wore it out by 1993 at just over 81,000 miles.
It is currently dissasembled and it's being rebuilt slowly since I have another 3B as my current daily driver.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
« Previous Topic · CJ-3B Posts · Next Topic »
Add Reply

Other Willys Jeep forums:

The CJ-2A Page has a CJ-2A Message Board.
There is also a CJ-3A Page Forum.
For CJ-5 and Dauntless V6 postings, see the Early CJ-5 Bulletin Board.
The Old Willys Forum is dedicated to wagons and pickups.
Surrey Gala and Dispatcher Jeeps are under DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts.
The M38/M38A1/M606 Preservation Group has a forum.
For other CJ and military Jeeps, see the g503 Message Boards.
See the Forward Forum for Forward Control Jeeps.
To post ads for other Willys parts or Jeeps, see the WillysTech Buy/Sell/Swap Message Board.
For tech problems with other Willys models, try the WillysTech e-mail list.
The Bantam Trailer forum covers Jeep trailers.