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Leaf Spring; what to do
Topic Started: Dec 16 2012, 11:51 AM (2,951 Views)
jking
Member
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An eagle eyed member stopped by to see the project and spyed this. Ignore that cinder block, the chassis is sitting on all four wheels. I'm going out to take it off, what's going to be involved? Passenger front.

Posted Image
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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div4gold
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Mine were flat, no arc. They didn't have a bulge like that though. I just changed them and have the original arc back and gained about 2 inch's in lift. A impact gun will make it a lot easier, also on the passenger side the U bolts are different just note which one goes where when you take it apart or you'll be wondering why it isn't going back together right. On the rear spring hanger bolt there is a cotter key and castle nut on the inside of the hanger. Remove the castle nut then remove the bolt.
Old retired fart living in Ione, WA. I have a 1964 CJ3B. Recently overhauled original motor, transmission and overdrive. 11" Bronco drum brakes on all 4. Needs a new coat of paint but that will have to wait till next summer, it's next summer and I'm working on that now :) UPS & FEDEX will continue to profit :)
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oldtime
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Normally the spring pivot bolt is easy to remove with a drift pin.
Can't see if you have "U" or silent block shackles (conventional type). So no advice is given.
If the axle clips (U bolts) are rusty you may need to heat the nuts to a dull red with a torch in order to save the axle clips.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jeeper50
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ol' skool jeeper jeff
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Have the same wornout spring problem on my '46 2A. Walcks has American made spring replacements, that is what I recommend for the problem springs.
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country


Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt...
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div4gold
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oldtime,Dec 16 2012
11:52 AM
Normally the spring pivot bolt is easy to remove with a drift pin.
Can't see if you have "U" or silent block shackles (conventional type). So no advice is given.
If the axle clips (U bolts) are rusty you may need to heat the nuts to a dull red with a torch in order to save the axle clips.

"(U bolts) are rusty you may need to heat the nuts to a dull red with a torch in order to save the axle clips."

OT, are you replacing the nuts when you heat them?
Old retired fart living in Ione, WA. I have a 1964 CJ3B. Recently overhauled original motor, transmission and overdrive. 11" Bronco drum brakes on all 4. Needs a new coat of paint but that will have to wait till next summer, it's next summer and I'm working on that now :) UPS & FEDEX will continue to profit :)
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oldtime
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I try to save ALL original parts.
If rust on I heat the nuts to a dull red.
Remove and let all parts air cool.
Do not quench when hot..
Rethread all clips and nuts bebore re-use.
Clean, paint and use anti seize !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jking
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Well, it appears that I have a problem in both the front and rear on the passenger side. The other side appears ok. A couple further questions

1) It looks like it is just the top leaf or am I mistaken. Can (or should) one leaf be repaired? Are there good reasons to place the entine assembly.

2) Can and should original springs be reconditioned and what is the repercussion of just doing one side?

3) I'm not a math major but I do have my fingers! I only count 9 leaves on that drivers rear but 10 on all the others?! :blink:
Pic's below:

front passenger

Posted Image

front drivers

Posted Image

Rear Passenger

Posted Image

Rear Drivers

Posted Image

Posted Image
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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Larry (TX)
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Yes JK, you can have your original springs re-conditioned by having them re-arched, preferrably by a reputable and well experienced spring vendor; (I'd suggest you look for a vendor who regularly performs this service on 18 wheel trucks and trailers).

These vendors can even add spring leaves as needed for strengthening, but you should know that the more leaves you have, the harder the ride. As for having just one side done, I'd recommend further that you have both sides done at the same time, but the driver's side spring should be arched approximately one and a half inches or more than the right side (to compensate for the weight of the engine since it's mounted off-center).

With the above being said however, some fellows on this board have experienced spring sag with this method within too short of a period of time after having it done, while others like myself have never had any problems whatsoever after having it done. I have to assume that its all in the individual actually performing the work and how much experience that fellow has as to how long the springs stay arched. The alternative of course would be to purchase new spring sets, but those also should be bought and installed in pairs rather than just one side at a time.

Hope this helps you decide what to do.
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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Rus Curtis
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Here's my perspective.

I see bulging affecting more than one leaf. Most probably due to rust over the years pushing against the leaves. They may or may not be salvageable. There's only one way to find out.

I agree on locating a local spring shop. I found one up the road in "the city" 40 miles away. They rebuilt my T3-C trailer springs (look real good!).

They will be able to tell you a lot more after disassembly. I also agree to doing both sides. I've read mixed reports on the success of re-arching. The resulting price for what you end up with should be your deciding factor.

I got a HD set years ago and they were way too stiff. The frame did all the flexing and broke other things on the jeep when 4 wheeling. I had to get rid of those.

I've got replacement springs from Walck's now and am very happy with them. The only caveat is they are arched and I've got a slight lift and had to go to longer shocks just so they'd fit.

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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oldtime
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Standard for CJ-3B is 10 leafs up front and 9 at the rear.

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=3889

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...p?showtopic=513
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Terry Fairchild
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Maybe it's just the photos, but the brake lines appear to be copper.
Tell me it aint'so!
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Bob
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Bob
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I was over last week and looked over his jeep. Those lines are the new nickel ones that bend easily. Lot of people are using them now.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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johnrb
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I may get some flack for saying this.
Depending on what you use the 3B for, you could probably keep those springs for another 10 years.
If all you do is drive around town for fun, then save your money.

If it's a daily driver on fast roads, then you should probably get all new springs.
If you're going to load up the back with firewood or other heavy stuff, you may eventually break a spring - then it'll be time for all new ones.
If you're going to go off-road on some serious trails, get all new springs.

Don't replace both springs on only one side. You can do fronts or rears alone but not one side alone.

And a heads-up. The springs you can get from Carl Walck (and others) will seem really harsh compared to your old, soft, sagged springs. My 3B with new rear springs from Carl rides like an empty dump truck. Those springs are stiff. I'm sure that 500 lbs of stuff in the back with smooth out the ride quite nicely.
John Burch - west burbs of Chicago
1946 2A - now I have one older than me
1949 - me - no longer older than all my vehicles
1954 3B - mostly stock - fun driver and snow plowing
1957 - 6 cyl Station Wagon - hope for the future

past Willys
1954 3B - no tub | 1959 3B - engine in pieces in a box

past addiction - VW
1969 Bus | 1970 Westfalia Camper | 1984 Westfalia Camper
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oldtime
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In the pic they appear to be in fairly good condition.
If the shackles are less than 45* at rest then they remain servicable.

I would dissassemble the spring packs and remove the apparent rust build up from between the leaves.

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=3889
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jking
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Terry,

Thanks for the comment. As Bob says they are nickel. But not to worry, Bob found plenty of other defeciencies that I missed. In fact, I haven't posted the additional ones I found when starting to address the ones he saw. I figure Bob has thus only added another 2 or 3 months to however long this project is going to take.

As a result though, I have decided one thing - Bob is no longer welcome at my house! I don't even want him to drive by as he might see something else from the street! :P

In all seriousness though - with regard to the springs. JohnRB, I don't know how I am going to use it, I've never driven it yet. I would expect that I'll start out just driving it around town. It has no OD, so not likely on the highway. I certainly could see myself having some fun on the trails though.

OT, I'm glad they appear serviceable, I'd like to keep as much original as possible. I'm not sure I want stiff springs anyway, my old back may not be able to take it. It still hurts from taking out the rear crossmember last weekend. I'll check the angle on the shackles.

I think the key question for me then is this - how much harder is it to service the springs when the project is back together and complete versus now when all I've got to deal with is the chassis. If I'm looking at a lot more work, it may be best to do it now.

Some thoughts on that one?

Thanks

John
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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