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New Discoveries after removing crossmember; fix now?
Topic Started: Dec 21 2012, 11:18 AM (998 Views)
jking
Member
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Well, I decided to replace the rear crossmember while I have the tub off. That took a bit of work but it was bent, rusted thru, and just in bad shape. My new one is on the way.

However, here's a couple of new issues I found. I don't think the first is too bad, the second is at the very least unattractive and that's good reason alone to address it. But this is new territory for me, please advise if it is worse than unattractive. I'm not sure me and my MIG can do this one ourselves. Although the assembly is off and that makes it easier work on in the garage or to take to someone.

The first is that v bracket from the frame back to the rear crossmember.

The second is on the "towbar"? assembly that was removed, it is laying on the frame for the shot. Bascially, the two bars that come from the back of the jeep and attach to the frame up over the axle. Pic is of one of those bars, obviously previosly broken and repaired. This is the end at the rear crossmember.

Posted Image

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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

Northest Ohio
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oldtime
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The strange looking indentation or bend seen in the diagonal brace is correct.
That is intended to provide clearance for the optional rear P.T.O. shaft.

The scabs used on the lower draw bar braces should be cut off.
Correct repairs should be made.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Rus Curtis
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jking,
I'm picking up on 2 concerns.

jking,Dec 21 2012
10:18 AM
However, here's a couple of new issues I found.  I don't think the first is too bad,  The first is that v bracket from the frame back to the rear crossmember.


Based on your first image, I'd assume you are questioning the "divot" or bend in one of the "V" crossmembers running from the side rail (at the rear intermediate crossmember) to the rear crossmember reinforcement plate, right? If so, that is a factory design

Quote:
 
the second is at the very least unattractive and that's good reason alone to address it.
The second is on the "towbar"? assembly that was removed, it is laying on the frame for the shot.  Basically, the two bars that come from the back of the jeep and attach to the frame up over the axle. Pic is of one of those bars, obviously previosly broken and repaired.  This is the end at the rear crossmember.


The towbar/ trailer hitch is actually the drawbar - I assume since it is the attachment point for multiple implements that you draw (drag) behind the jeep on the farm. One of those attachments is a trailer hitch.

Based on your images, I'd agree that a rough patch had been performed along the way. It may be a bit over the top to remove them and clean up the repair - especially if the supports were severed clean through. How strong could it be? However, those could easily be cleaned up and have some additional welding done for cosmetic reasons. If the looks bother you, keep an eye out for a drawbar sale. Sometimes there are several at the Willys Reunions (I got a replacement for my bent drawbar).
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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jking
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I am possibly limited in my tools to address this. I have a sawsall, jigsaw and 4 1/2 angle grinder. My friend down the street has a big angle grinder. Again, without experience that looks like something that would need to be torched off.

I'm guessing that the piece on top is to make up for some shortness of length in the original as a result of the failure. Should the entire length be repaced or only enough to restore the proper design - meaning a butt weld. Will my 120 MIG handle that, is that a correct technique?
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

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Larry (TX)
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From the way your photo is situated, the drawbar brace should be cut flush with the rear face of the bar, then re-welded to the flatbar further south (the piece that's already welded) as that's where the brace would have origionally been; (from the factory). Probably a previous owner, for unknown reasons, cut the brace and welded it where it is now.

And yes, your MIG should take care of that chore quite easily, but before welding it back in place, I'd recommend that you try to locating another factory drawbar, (either in place on a jeep or separated) to ensure you get the proper alignment and angle of the brace. As it cannot be determined from the photo you've posted, there should be another brace on the opposite side of the drawbar.
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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oldtime
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I would repair what you have.
A 4-1/2 " disk grinder is sufficient to remove the scab.
A larger grinder is preferred.
Grind off one side of the welded scab and break off the other weld by hammering the scab off.
"VEE" out the broken crack with a hard wheel grinding disk and re-weld.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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jking
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Thank you all for your helpful comments. I've had so many problem areas to deal with that now I'm seeing stock design points as issues. Glad to hear that there is no problem there.

Yes, the other brace is in place and appears to be fine with no signs of repair or relocation.

I'm probably going to torture the neighbors again the weekend with my grinding - why stop now I guess. Whoever called the police two years ago and forced me to start this project is probably regretting that call now or at least will after tomorrow!.

So my initial plan will be to grind that scab off and see what I've got. I'm assuming that aptly named "scab" is the short piece welded on top the brace. I'll post after that. There's a very nice Jeep down in Green that I may be able to inspect for proper placement of that drawbar brace - if I stop antagnizing him on this forum he may let me come down.
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

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oldtime
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"SCAB" is a common term used among welders to indicate a sloppy cover patch.

So I Ask ..... Hoghead, are you familiar with that welders term ?
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Bob
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Bob
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Hey John, you bring that over to my house and we can fix it..."my dad is a tv repairman...he's got the ultimate set if tools!" That was spicoli from fast times at ridgemont high.

Seriously, bring the over and we will take care of it
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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jeeper50
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I replaced my rear crossmember several years ago on my spare frame, I have s good thread for info on how to shoot the steel rivets. I have not installed my hitch yet. I'll see if I can find the thread.


EDIT-

Here's my thread


http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php...ear+crossmember
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country


Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt...
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Bob
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Bob
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Hey John, I also have mine off right now to install my newgren three point hitch.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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jeeper50
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ol' skool jeeper jeff
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I forgot to add, I installed the steel rivets thru the hole and then heated the "tail of the rivet cherry red with a torch, then used the rivet gun to smash the tail of the rivet while holding a bar or BFH on the head of the rivet.
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, Hot-Spark electronic module,11"self energizing brakes, Belleview winch, Beachwood summertop, OD color, built to honor all Veterans of this great country


Kayaks- Hobie Revo 13, Hobie Outback 12' both ready for the salt...
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jking
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Drawbar, old bumper, new bumper and reinforcement all now laying around in the garage.

Got a crooked look from my wife - "aren't you supposed to be putting things together"?

Jeeper, I'll catch that thread. Rivets came with the new bumper. Bob, thanks for the offer. Maybe next week, would love to see your 53 up close.
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case.

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Bob
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Bob
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Yup. With that whole "won't have bob over again" attitude you can't come over until Thursday! Actually that's the first day I have available. Saturday is out too, so what I'm saying is Thursday or Friday. I'm a little loopy from sandblasting right now!
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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