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| tailgate and windshield frame repairs; how to approach? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 10 2013, 02:53 PM (550 Views) | |
| jking | Jan 10 2013, 02:53 PM Post #1 |
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Here's the tailgate, top looks like it took a hit, bottom is straight (but rusted). What's the best technique for getting it back in line?![]() ![]() The windshield frames has cracks and then a split on each side in the arm that attaches to the body. ![]() ![]()
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| Rus Curtis | Jan 10 2013, 03:59 PM Post #2 |
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kjing, Wow! you've got a full plate! I’m not a welder but can offer ideas and relay what I’ve done using qualified welders to do the work. Tailgate: There is a guy, Mike, on the 2A Forums that makes repair panels for the base of the tailgate - either A or B kit depending on the amount of damage. http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tailgate...tailgate+repair The top could be bent back in position depending on how you wanted to do it. If you're a big fella, you could block up the ends - not on the chain hook tabs – (like one 2x4) and bounce on the center. You could fabricate or use a press using a scissor or hydraulic jack to press it back into position. I've heard of filling tubes with sand or coil springs to keep them from collapsing but don't think you'll need to go that elaborate. Just gently bend it back. If it does develop a flat spot, a metal rod could be forced inside to push the flat spot back out with the help of a good hammer. Windshield: I had cracks in my arms too. I suspect they develop due to pulling on the windshield frame to get in and out of the vehicle over a 50 year period. I had them welded up and a reinforcement plate welded over the top to stiffen it up. For all repairs, removing all rust and paint is the best way to see what needs repairing. Sometimes, the time and money spent on repairing is more than a replacement part. For me, I located a very good replacement tailgate for cheap. Good luck! |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| Bob_webber | Jan 10 2013, 05:43 PM Post #3 |
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for the tailgate you could find 2 pipes to fit inside the top lip. i would put them in as far as you can get them toward the bowed middle section. they will need to be long enough to stick out both sides for leverage. put 2 4x4 blocks on the concrete floor, lay the tailgate with pipes inserted flat on the floor. raise the pipes onto the blocks, and progressively apply pressure down with your foot until it straightens. the longer the pipes stick out the ends the more advantage you have over the work piece, as you go you may also have to work the pipes in toward the center. at least that is how i would try it, just make sure to watch for distortion of the ends. i have never tried this idea, but it sounds good to me.
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53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was bob, north east Ohio | |
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| Bob_webber | Jan 10 2013, 05:50 PM Post #4 |
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if the factory welds are weak on the other side of the lip, you might want to clamp them with c clamp vice grips, if needed. |
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53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was bob, north east Ohio | |
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| Rus Curtis | Jan 10 2013, 06:30 PM Post #5 |
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I like Bob's idea better - leverage will help make the bending easier!! |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| oldtime | Jan 10 2013, 08:50 PM Post #6 |
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It looks like the upper tube can be straightened merely by carefully standing on the high spot. If it has a kink or dent then I suggest driving a solid 1" diameter rod through the formed tube. A solid rod or a heavy walled pipe will act as a mandrel in case you need to hammer out any kinks / dents. The lower rusted section will require carefully welding in some new metal. Electrical conduit will work well for the lower tube portion.. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| jking | Jan 11 2013, 04:14 PM Post #7 |
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Yes Rus, I feel like that guy who fills his plate up 8 inches tall on Thanksgiving and must now eat it all. But I try to take it one small 'bite' at at time, that helps. That's a nice peice that guy has manufactured and the story of how it came about was very interesting. BTW - anyone needs that peice seach 'willys tailgate' on Ebay. I like Bob's idea too, Although it seems like it may be that a pretty wide stance is required, I may end up falling on my a.... Perhaps I can get a fellow enthusiast to stand on one end with me on the other. That's a good idea OT, I should have a solid pipe lay around. I am attempting to fabricate and weld new patches for the bottom section. We'll see how it comes out. If good, I'll post pics , If not, no pics and an order to Mike on ebay.
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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, If not, no pics and an order to Mike on ebay.
3:45 AM Jul 11