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cleaning filter element in air cleaner; unclear to me
Topic Started: Jan 10 2013, 11:37 PM (509 Views)
gianas
Member
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It's unclear in the manual (to me) how to clean the air cleaner that sits on top of the oil bath and inside a housing, pictured on page 15 of the 1002 R5 service manual. I don't know how to remove the wire mesh element. Nothing budges after taking out the oil cup, the hoses, etc, as the manual describes. Having never taken one apart, I don't know what the separated parts look like to "use common sense" to remove the wire-mesh element to clean it.

The instructions in the manual say to not put oil on the wire mesh air cleaner but to put oil on the wire cause model. Fact: There's no dust where I drive this jeep (Seattle), compared to where I used to live (Phoenix).

Would someone, please, tell me what to do so that I don't bend or ruin something by trying to remove the wire-mesh element.

Thanks,

Greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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oldtime
Member Avatar
MODERATOR
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Cleaning the Donaldson is a very rare maintainance procedure for old jeeps with lots of miles.
The wire gauze was not designed for removal.
To clean the gauze of accumulated dirt you will have to fill a bucket with strong solvent and dip the complete assembly.
Be careful what type solvent you use because the wire gauze will rust very easily.
You might even consider baking the Donaldson if you wash in soap water.
Make sure that the gauze it is coated with an oil film after cleaning.

Due to hazard I cannot recommend this; but I wash them in old gasoline.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Galen
Member
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Oldtime- Please don't tell me you clean parts with gasoline- We wouldn't want you to go up in a puff of smoke!
1954 CJ3B -Transport Yellow-
1953 B4 Dodge Power Wagon
1941 Dodge WC 1/2 ton military
1967 Plymouth Valiant
Culpeper, VA
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gianas
Member
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Oldtime, thank you for the instructions regarding cleaning it. What's equally important to me is how to take it out; that's my greatest concern. The manual doesn't show or explain that. It appears that certain parts separate, but they're not separating on mine, probably because of rust. Because the parts that might separate are not shown in the manual, I don't want to force something that's not supposed to separate to take out the filtering element. It IS dirty, to be sure; I confirmed that.

Thanks,

Greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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oldtime
Member Avatar
MODERATOR
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The wire gauze was not designed for removal.
You must remove / clean the complete assembly in one piece.
All outer parts are spot welded together.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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Rus Curtis
Member
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Greg,
I had a problem of "over cleaning" mine early on. I had no guidance and was unfamiliar with this thing. I used a very strong parts cleaner solution to clean the top and bottom. This cleaning solution was an excellent degreaser but stripped the upper element (mesh) completely and it began to rust up at the very top. Note: If you have water pooled in the bottom cup, it is possible for that to rust through also.

I've read that cleaning the top with Kerosene is effective and won't make the element rust. I like this better. Perhaps others have a favorite cleaning solution that works well.

The SM describes the cleaning process but if you're not getting in a lot of dust/contaminates, it may be possible to wipe the empty cup clean and refill without an elaborate cleaning.

After you take the bottom cup off and empty the used oil out (this oil is just poured in with the old engine oil in the catch pan or container you're going to take in to recycle the oil with). Scrape any stuck on deposits off (a cleaner or solvent may help to loosen this caked on stuff up to help get it out). A plastic small paint scraper or spatula would work well without scratching up the bottom cup. Wipe clean, refill with engine oil.

The top can be unbolted from the firewall and all hoses disconnected before cleaning. A solution is poured into the cavity (maybe 1/2 cup). With your hand over the top opening where the breather hose goes, hold it inverted/sideways and slosh it around with the last slosh happening with you holding it right side up and the fluid emptying out through the bottom into a catch pan. Use compressed air from the top (to keep from blowing any unseen contaminate up higher) blow dry the element - or at least let it sit and air dry.

This is my technique and I’d like to hear other’s preferred method for cleaning the top part!

Don't pull this mesh element out! It's not intended to be removed.

Once dry, fasten back on the firewall and then reattach the bottom cup (with the new oil in it).

Hope this helps.

Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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gianas
Member
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holy moly, this information really helped Rus; sure didn't know the wire mesh couldn't come out (wasn't supposed to come out); glad I refused to force the issue; I could find no way to get it out, without undue force.

without this forum, I believe some pretty bad mistakes would be performed.

thanks,

greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
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