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radiator removal?; with cowling
Topic Started: Jan 20 2013, 05:55 PM (1,704 Views)
gianas
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Larry, for me, this is a learning process. Learning involves making mistakes. You were trying to help. Intent counts. No sweat.

Perfection happens in Hollywood fantasies, no where else. Depression happens when someone believes in fantasies. Reality is one snafu after another, whether in war or peace. What matters is having people around like you, who give a "darn."

Greg

I don't doubt your advice to put in new fan-belt bolts. What I want and need to understand is why. Your answer is connected to my learning what I need to know about all this stuff—"basics" which I don't yet know. Your answer is related to the knowledge gained from experience, which I don't have. Thanks.
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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Rus Curtis
Member
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Larry (TX),Jan 21 2013
12:13 PM
Also, Id' recommend replacing the screws with new one's, being very sure the new screws are no longer than those being removed as if they're too long, they can easily puncture the outer cooling tubes.


Larry good point!

In case this becomes an issue the PM states:

GROUP 14-01 -- RADIATOR
GM-161857 Screw, pan hd. tapping, No. 8-15 x 3/8" (Radiator shroud to radiator)...........6

That 3/8" is the length. I've been known to stick a wire in a hole to check depth available too.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Larry (TX)
Member
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Greg, please re-read my last thread. I recommended replacing the screws (the sheet metal screws Rus gives specs for above) that secure the radiator shroud to the frame of the radiator, not the 1/4 - 20 fan blade bolts; (those however I'd recommend cleaning with a wire wheel on a bench grinder as it makes it much easier to re-install with one's fingers - hold them with vicegrip pliers while cleaning and add a drop or two of oil before re-inserting.

Okay (and I'll be precise), the reason for replacing the sheet metal screws (as there's not that much weight to the shroud, I use stainless steel hex-head screws as they don't rust) is that in most all cases I've dealt with on a great number of radiator repairs in my past experience, said screws from the factory, always being steel, have usually been rusted to the point that sometimes the screwdriver slot in the screws head (or even hex head screws) can no longer be used, thus one has to tediously use a very small set of channel-locks around the screw heads to extract them. Now do you see why I made that recommendation?
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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gianas
Member
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Larry: You're certainly right about the sheet-metal screws holding the shroud to the radiator. Unfortunately, I did the job before reading your explanation regarding why to replace them with stainless steel ones. I just went out and bought new, standard screws, believing you knew what you were talking about. I wish I would have bought stainless-steel screws, as you suggest, because I found what you described to be vividly and clearly the case.

Also, I wish I would/could have waited longer to read what you wrote about the bolts holding the thermostat housing. Although I had "little" trouble using the old bolts, I would have had zero trouble if I had done what you suggested to the bolts.



greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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Larry (TX)
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Hang in there buddy, at least you're learning, even if it is the hard way, and never fret, I feel sure that we'll all continue to help you as much as we can when you ask for assistance.

Regarding the use of stainless hardware, I generally use those fasteners on my own vehicles when re-installing items (i.e., mirrors, lamps, interior and some exteriopr parts, etc.) not requiring grade 8 bolts or high torque to secure whatever. When securing whichever part I happen to be dealing with at the time, I also use the correct size stainless flat (& lock) washers under the bolt and screw heads to prevent scarring of any bright and/or painted surfaces.
Larry Steed
Pearland, Texas
'53 Willys CJ3B
'52 Willys M38
'86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (K5 4x4 Military Blazer)
M100 1/4 ton jeep trailer
M416 1/4 ton jeep trailer (2 ea.)
M101 CDN 1/4 ton jeep trailer
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gianas
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Larry,Thanks,

greg
Greg Gianas
Redmond, Washington
1954 3B, daily driver; old, beat up but still strong,
last vehicle I'll probably ever own,
purchased May 2012;

first vehicle and jeep owned: back in 1965-66 (1965 CJ-5, Hurricane 134 engine); no better memories
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Bob
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Bob
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Hey Guys, I have to second the stainless bolts. I have them all over my jeep. Another trick I do is to use nylon washers under things, or gaskets I've made out of plastic under things like the mirror brackets to keep them from dinging the paint.

My spare tire has a gasket made out of a bottle of laundry detergent between the rim and the mount.
Bob
1953 CJ3B
1965(?) CJ5
1949 Jeepster
1947 Cj2A
2004 Kubota l3400
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For CJ-5 and Dauntless V6 postings, see the Early CJ-5 Bulletin Board.
The Old Willys Forum is dedicated to wagons and pickups.
Surrey Gala and Dispatcher Jeeps are under DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts.
The M38/M38A1/M606 Preservation Group has a forum.
For other CJ and military Jeeps, see the g503 Message Boards.
See the Forward Forum for Forward Control Jeeps.
To post ads for other Willys parts or Jeeps, see the WillysTech Buy/Sell/Swap Message Board.
For tech problems with other Willys models, try the WillysTech e-mail list.
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