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| welting | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 14 2013, 09:05 PM (773 Views) | |
| garyc1955 | Sep 14 2013, 09:05 PM Post #1 |
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Howdy,what have you guys used for welting between fenders and body?Reckon that reproduction asphalt saturated wiring loom might work? thanks Gary |
| 1964 cj3b ,extremely rust free seems mostly unmolested and starting a restore in southern New Mexico | |
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| Rus Curtis | Sep 14 2013, 10:50 PM Post #2 |
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I bought the welting kit from Beachwood. One for the radiator guard top, the fenders and the gas tank strap. They all look great but will need holes punched for the bolts/rivets. |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| ba25 | Sep 14 2013, 11:04 PM Post #3 |
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Ron at G503 parts also sells the anti squeak for between fenders and body, grille and steps.......anti squeak |
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BA Agan 46 Bantam T3-C 2953 46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red" 49 CJ-2A 222564 51 M38 MC 28115 52 M100 285896 62 CJ5 57548-148683 64 DJ3A 8204-24210 | |
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| Phil... | Sep 15 2013, 08:38 AM Post #4 |
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Well, if your're Ok with using modern materials, I pressed this nylon tie down strapping into service after I found it laying in the road. Obviously it had fallen off a truck - just hope the guy got home OK with his load intact. Anyway, when cleaned up and folded I found it was the same width as the top of the grill so I stitched it down, cut it to length and attached it. Does the job just fine. Tip: Assuming you don't have access to a hot knife or heated punch make sure you heat up and melt any cut and exposed ends to prevent fraying.
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Indian 3B England. | |
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| Ian's AC 3b | Sep 15 2013, 07:36 PM Post #5 |
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What is the green saucer shaped devive on the engine above the water pump? Also what are you using the two relays for on the fan shroud? BTW, nylon belting looks good. |
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J.I. Fraser, Nova Scotia, Canada 1956 Cj-3b originally a airport belt loader, second owner 2008 Patriot ltd. daily drive Selling as soon as new muffler installed 2016 Cherokee North uptrim 1952 Dunbar Kapple trailer with a 2013 frame Past: 1952 M38 Canadian ( basket case) | |
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| williams3b54 | Sep 15 2013, 11:09 PM Post #6 |
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Just an other idea. I have used the timing belt from a Ford or other late model vehicle, like a SHO, for the welting between the hood and the radiator. It is a cog type belt and it works great. The cogs are up and it is attatched with pop rivets. I think it looks a lot better than the canvas original. I used a Teflon tape material between the fenders and the tub. I also have used nylon washers between the diamond plate and the body. Two reasons, one is to provide an air space between the body and the aluminum diamond plate and one to be able to hose the junk out from between the body and the diamond plate, and it works. Some would say the space is a place for junk to get into, but so far I have been able to keep it clean. In the Northwest we use the diamond plate to spin around trees. You drive up tight to the tree and turn into the tree and power around the tree, the diamond plate takes the scraping, not the body. Dick W. Spokane Wa. |
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1954 CJ-3B Semi-modified for trail riding in the Northwest. See photos on CJ-3B page owners photos 1954. 1968 CJ-5/1975 231 odd fire V-6/ many other mods. ordered new from Toledo 1968. | |
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| Phil... | Sep 16 2013, 12:12 PM Post #7 |
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Hi Ian, the saucer thing is simply a belt driven vacuum pump for the braking system. Just checked the Haynes manual which describes it as a "Saginaw Type". The relays are for the headlights. One for normal beam the other for bright's. I think I've solved my overheating problem maybe I should move 'em to a better place or mount them in a box. |
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Indian 3B England. | |
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maybe I should move 'em to a better place or mount them in a box.
7:23 PM Jul 10