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| Ross assembly; Correct | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 11 2013, 10:34 AM (590 Views) | |
| jking | Oct 11 2013, 10:34 AM Post #1 |
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Assembling the Ross. The clips that go behind the bearing cups just don't seem like they fit right. They go around the shaft just fine but the back edge drops into the gap. Seems like they really don't matter once the cups are secured in place but wanted to see if I'm missing anything. Although, it seems to be correct based on the rebuilder's book and the parts manual. Secondly the new bottom cup doesn't slide into the recess very easily like the original. It will go in but has to be driven in by using a rubber mallet on the top end of the shaft - is that ok?![]() ![]() ![]() |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| oldtime | Oct 11 2013, 03:33 PM Post #2 |
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Yes John, Those snap rings are a very loose fit. That is the normal fit. The lower bearing cup will normally fall into position without any driving force. If it's just too tight you may want to sand some on the bearing cups O.D. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| jking | Oct 12 2013, 07:46 AM Post #3 |
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Thanks OT. |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| jking | Oct 12 2013, 03:05 PM Post #4 |
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Ok, so sanding the cup allowed it to slide in. However, even when I used all the new shims, the shaft gets locked up long before I get the 3 bolts to 20 flbs. The old caps are taller but I can get my caliper inside the old or new cup to measure whether the cups cause a tighter fit. The bearings are from Walck's. Do I just need more shims? (no I can't find the old ones ) ![]() ![]()
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| garyc1955 | Oct 12 2013, 09:05 PM Post #5 |
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Bearings may look different but as long as the" stack height" is the same all should work.The bearing kit I got for my Ross was of such poor quality I reused the bearings,they were in ok shape.Try a trial fit with the old bearings and see what happens.Gary |
| 1964 cj3b ,extremely rust free seems mostly unmolested and starting a restore in southern New Mexico | |
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| oldtime | Oct 13 2013, 01:52 PM Post #6 |
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Garys advice is valid. I can only recommend original replacement components. Meaning the excluseive use of Genuine Willys Motors Approved Parts and Accessories. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| jking | Oct 13 2013, 04:52 PM Post #7 |
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There is a lot of old grease inside the tube where the horn wire goes. Also the column is full of grease. The rebuilder's book makes no mention of this grease. I really don't see what either might provide for, yet can't see any problem with it there. Replace with new, leave alone, or remove? Thanks. |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| oldtime | Oct 14 2013, 09:20 AM Post #8 |
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I would wipe out all of the excess grease. Leaving a thin film in place would be a great way to deturr any possible rust. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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7:23 PM Jul 10