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| U joints; how to install | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 12 2013, 03:15 PM (666 Views) | |
| jking | Oct 12 2013, 03:15 PM Post #1 |
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First, I apologize for submitting so many posts. Whenever I hit a snag, I post the issue and move on to the next thing. So right now I've got the dist, the tank, the shafts, the carb, and the Ross all going at once! I don't know what I'd do without the help from you guys and my local expert Bob. Thank you all. I've got all new ujoints for the propeller shafts. What is the proper installation procedure? This is what I know - Lube the caps - with lithium? make sure the zerk will be accessable What's this about "in phase"? The caps were very tight coming out and the new ones are very tight on a trial fit. The shafts and the flange were epoxy coated and painted. Do I need to sand the interior where the caps go to make the caps fit in better? I used a big vice to take them out using misc sockets. How do I put them back in? One cap at at time, or 2 opposing at a time? |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| binthere | Oct 12 2013, 04:48 PM Post #2 |
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Your on the right track jking. I usually put the cup in one side, then set the cross in and the set the other cup in and squeeze it in useing the vice. Just tap one side in enough to get the ring in and then tap on the other end to get the other ring in. Sounds easy eh!! Your other question about "in phase" or "in time" referes to the crosses on the u-joint are running the same direction on both ends of the driveshaft. The only way it can get out of time is if someone takes the driveshaft apart at the spline, and does not put it back together on exactly the same splines so that the crosses line up the same at both ends. Hope that is clear enough for you!!
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somedays your the windsheild--somedays your the bug Chuck - Cherryville B.C. Canada 53 3b [0IIIII0] stock except for wheel's and seats " a fistfull of dollars" 49 willys jeepster " a few dollars more" and a few other retirement toys | |
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| Rus Curtis | Oct 13 2013, 07:42 AM Post #3 |
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jking, First let me commend you on your posting technique. I think it will help many later on when searching for a specific topic. Plus it helps when others post in attempts to help. It keeps the comments topic specific. I personally like it. To add to comments already, I'd also suggest removing painting inside the area where the cups go. I had a real problem until I figured that out. Regular grease (whatever you're going to lube with) is fine for keeping the rolling pins in place until assembly is complete. I also use tape around the opposing caps while installing; Keeps them clean and in place until ready for the final U-bolt attachments. |
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Rus Curtis Alabama '54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt" Bantam T3-C | |
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| oldtime | Oct 13 2013, 02:10 PM Post #4 |
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Chucks installation procedure is an excellent recommendation. You can assemble the propeller shaft Cardan crosses using a large vise, a press or a large "C" clamp. Dissassemble and clean the Cardan cross assemblies as required. After cleaning re-assemble the Cardan cross type universal joints. If already assembled; remove / pull the bearing caps from the trunions. Dab some grease onto your index finger and lube the needle rollers inside the cup. I like to use either Mobil One synthetic or pure lithium grease. Each cup will contain a quantity of rollers. Anywhere from 23 to 32 rollers per cup. Install the neoprene cup seals. Install the first cup into the yoke. Carefully install the Cardin cross trunion into that cup being certain that no rollers are dislodged. Carefully squeeze or press cup into yoke as far as possible. Place a thick washer behind the bearing cap and press the first cap a little further into the yoke. Now carefully add the opposing cap being certain that no rollers are dislodged. Press this cap in and position so both bearing cap retaining clips can be installed into the yokes groove. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| jking | Oct 13 2013, 03:37 PM Post #5 |
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That procedure worked fine on the rear flange(?) that attaches at the eb drum. Can't find definitive pictures so next question - the spline ends of each shaft should be at the tc front and back? |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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| oldtime | Oct 13 2013, 04:20 PM Post #6 |
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The splined yokes of each propeller shaft are up toward the transfer case. The correct position elevates them up as high as possible. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| jking | Oct 14 2013, 07:56 AM Post #7 |
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Ok, thank you. I think I'm done with the questions on this. I'll finish up tonight. Boy Rus, you were right, the removal of the paint made a big difference. Note to anyone painting the shafts - tape the inside diameters where the u joint caps go, you'll save a lot of time not having to remove it. That epoxy primer is tough stuff! |
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1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
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7:23 PM Jul 10