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Brake Adjustment; Looking for tips
Topic Started: Oct 13 2013, 11:53 AM (703 Views)
ehrawn
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I tried to do a quick brake adjustment, but ran into a little trouble. The steps outlined in the service manual worked great on right side, but on the left front, the pad were dragging on the drum no matter where the cams were turned. On the left rear, I had the opposite problem: the cams could turn all of the way around and never stop the drum from turning. I checked the thickness of the pads on the rear (~.2"), but didn't have a good way to checking the drums. I could see they were a little out of round, but nothing too excessive. I need to do a longer drive to check to see if the brakes pull and if there's any excessive heating, but is there any thing I should check before the road test?
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oldtime
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.2 pad thickness seems perfectly acceptable.
I suggest you remove and measure drum inside diameter (I.D.).
You can check it for oversize (O.S.) using a common steel rule.
The brake drum I.D. is either standard or else they are typically turned either .030 (1/32") or .060 (1/16") O.S.

See: http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...topic=4233&st=0
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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63owner
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Ehrawn,
I had issues such as yours when trying to understand how to adjust the brakes. On the one that's dragging, try turning both top and bottom cams, going back and forth between the two. It's kind of hard to describe, but sometimes you have to sort of "walk" the shoe away from the drum.
Same on the one that won't drag. Turn the top cam, then the bottom, then the top and the bottom again.
There should be a small dimple in the cam end to let you know where maximum cam is. You may need to wire brush it to find it.
If you've loosened the bottom cam too much, you may have pulled the adjuster out of the shoe.
"Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened." Dr. Seuss
Western Kentucky
63 Cj3b, F-134, original top
64 DJ3a parts vehicle
1948 CJ2A
Late 1940s Spen Model S trailer
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oldtime
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The 3B's never used the early 9" Bendix type brakes.
Early 9" Bendix type brakes were used on CJ-2A and CJ-3A.
Early 9" Bendix type brakes have 4 eccentrics per drum.
Late 9" Bendix type brakes have 2 eccentrics per drum.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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63owner
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I stand corrected Oldtime. I got my Jeeps confused. I was thinking of my 2A brakes.
"Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened." Dr. Seuss
Western Kentucky
63 Cj3b, F-134, original top
64 DJ3a parts vehicle
1948 CJ2A
Late 1940s Spen Model S trailer
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oldtime
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63 owner
I'm only attempting here to correct mistakes or misadvice.
Please continue replying to posts as you are able.
Your input is appreciated.

As always, thanks for posting on the CJ-3B B.B.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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63owner
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No problem Oldtime. For many of us, your expertise here is what keeps our Jeeps on the road, and it is greatly appreciated.
As I learn more about these Jeeps, I want to be as helpful to others as you guys have been to me. Since I own a 3B and a 2A, and working on both, I frequently jump back and forth between the two websites as I jump back and forth between working on the two Jeeps.
As I get older and busier, keeping things organized correctly in my brain gets harder and harder. :)
"Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened." Dr. Seuss
Western Kentucky
63 Cj3b, F-134, original top
64 DJ3a parts vehicle
1948 CJ2A
Late 1940s Spen Model S trailer
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