Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the discussion forums section of the website CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived in the Tech Tips section of the website. If you post a tech problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it may be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.
Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.
| You're currently viewing the forums as a guest. This means there are some features you can't use. If you register, you'll be able to post messages and use member-only features such as customizing your profile and sending personal messages. Registration is simple and free. Join the CJ-3B Bulletin Board! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,077 Views) | |
| F Bill | Jul 30 2014, 09:17 AM Post #211 |
|
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
![]() ![]()
|
I used to think the resistor wires/carbon core ones were just fine but I was edumacated by a thread on another board that the solid core is more suited to our jeeps.. If you plan on being around lots of two way radios or near a TV a lot, go with resistor wires (most sets are this style nowadays..) but if not stick with the solid core ..That is what the general consensus was. You had me worried on the distributor cap. Glad you got it straightened out., By the time I start working on my DJ you guys will have done all the research for me!!THANK YOU for sharing it! |
|
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
![]() |
|
| SteveK | Jul 30 2014, 10:32 AM Post #212 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
The great thing about the J8, it it used in my weedeater, edger, and lawnmower, and 'no', I'm not using the Jeep for all that... lol. The solid core is what I used in drag racing. Vibrations, excessive temp changes, and multiple on/offs can sometimes break the continuity of a 'carbon wire', especially cheap ones. Now they use big EXPENSIVE 8-10mm silicone insulated wires, and LOTS OF COMPUTERS and sensors around them seemingly without interference. In my 'fading memory' somewhere, it seems that there is also a shield available to prevent the radio interference, but unfortunately, I can't swear to it or direct you to that info . As stated, the "R" plugs were designed for that. Maybe someone else has the latest info. |
|
SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 30 2014, 12:49 PM Post #213 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Another problem solved. No computers on these engines soooo. I'm thinking keep it simple . For out DJ3A engine.... Solid core wires it is... Ps. Found this on one of Kens write ups on a CJ3B hurricane engine and 'betcha' this is the same as our DJ's. Quote from Ken. (Concerning Hurricane Engine on a CJ3B)
Ps. Didn't price the 12v battery but uh, hold yer breath when you go and price the 6 volt one!! |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 30 2014, 01:44 PM Post #214 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
When I went into my motor there's a few things I didn't touch that still need to be seen too. First One was lapping the valves and setting clearance. That's now of course been seen too. Second was the was the camshaft which looked extremely crisp and clean. Also 'oddly enough' the rod and crank main bearings were in good shape. Note: one problem was finding the little tiny alignment dots on the timing gears but they ARE there. Based on this information I didn't remove the cam or check the cam bearings under my 'assumption' that since they're the first thing to get oil?....they'll 'probably' be ok. Third, and this still wants to be seen to is removing the distributer (luckily it still turns freely) and clean and see to the guts and springs and weights inside the distributer itself, and removing and dissembling and the oil pump for inspection, fill it up with oil, and reinstall everything. All of this I will try to document with pictures, including all of the timing marks. Pre comments or advice welcome and give me a couple of days. First Ps..... If some of my assumptions ARE wrong I will have no qualms about going back into it if it doesn't hold oil pressure or if the cylinder compressions don't come up to specs so continually keeping my fingers crossed. Second PS. Lots to do yet, including going through and refreshing the starter, the same for the generator and.....verifying the generator, coil, and voltage regulator are indeed 6volt...which I don't know how to do, yet. Also note, when I 'do' get the motor ready to crank I WILL be temporarily using heat and oil senders and gauges instead of the factory idiot lights. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Jul 30 2014, 06:55 PM Post #215 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Yes I fully agree with F Bill. If your around radios then use the carbon resistor cables or else the interference will be unbearable on CB and AM / FM radio bands. The range of interference is roughly a city block. Copper core spark cables are certainly not mandatory yet they can be a big advantage. Imajine that you have a cracked distributor cap and the Jeep misfires and runs very poorly with common resistor cables.. If you was to switch to copper core ignition cables you might not even notice the arcing / misfiring of the cracked cap. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 30 2014, 09:40 PM Post #216 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Dj3A engine paint. That one actually gave me FITS. First couple of try's it didn't suit me because ....it looked too much like fresh paint. What I wanted was a clean and BRAND new look..... nicely done, but not so much of a fresh spray can look to it. Also I imagined a durable finish that could start all over gathering up its own patina over the coming years. My first attempts were, to me, a failure. Enamel made everything just 'paintie looking) so I took it off. High heat engine paint was better but came out 'splotchy' looking and the more I tried to even it out the worse it got, so I took that off too. Since there's no oil, gas, or rubber to worry about this time I sprayed several 'lighter' coats of the high heat paint, splotches and all. THEN, I heat cured it with a pretty good flame on a hand held propane torch. It took three separate times heating to cure to suit me. At first the ceramics in the paint would 'look' sugary when the flame hit it. I'd keep the torch moving and not concentrate on one spot. Eventually the paint cleared up and laid down. Especially nice around the lettering and nuts and studs. Remember I only flame licked it, I never tried to cook it or burn it off. Here's the result and we'll see how it holds up. ![]() It's much blacker than the picture shows but not 'shiny shiny' spray can black. I'll offset that look with more of a gloss black on some of the other non cast engine external parts. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 31 2014, 06:20 PM Post #217 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
This is UGLY. It seems that 'maybe' the same heavy handed yaaaahoooo who about twisted my valve adjuster in two, shown in a previous post, has also been into my DJ's 6 volt starter. First I did find a number on its bent up and badly abused autolite tag that was barely legible after a lot of gentle cleaning. Appears to be MCH 6203. Anyways this is what I found as I was taking it apart. These copper strips coming off of the two windings ![]() That are supposed to go into the slots on the backside of this bolt ![]() Well at some point while taking off the battery cable he spun the bolt and broke the copper strips. An attempted, badly done soldering repair was barely holding everything together and fell apart upon disassembly. Here's the bolt after removing some of the old solder and you can see the ends of the broken copper strips. ![]() The worse thing is everything else in the starter appears to be serviceable and is in pretty decent shape. One of the windings still has enough length on it to reattach somewhat correctly. Reattaching a piece of copper for a suitable repair on the short one that will hold up, and not overheat the smaller wires inside may be dicey, but unless I find a suitable replacement without spending a arm and a leg will be attempted. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 31 2014, 09:18 PM Post #218 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Well, an eBay search revealed a few autolite field coils but without knowing the right number and since non of them looked exactly right I cyphered up a way to attempt a repair. First I took a piece of copper and cleaned and softened it up and made some bends and cuts in it. ![]() Then I pre-tinned it and started forming the flap around the broken piece coming out of the field winding ![]() Then I clamped it tight with some pliers and formed a twist in it ![]() |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Jul 31 2014, 09:35 PM Post #219 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Here's what my joint looked like after soldering![]() Slid a piece of 6 to 1 shrink wrap over it ![]() And this is what it looks like now ![]() A little bit of tweaking and I'll solder them, hopefully more correctly than when I started :), back in the slot of that bolt. If I've been lucky hopefully I haven't shorted out the field coil and it'll reinstall as good as new. Hey, I CAN wish can't I??? I am thinking that a fresh coat of shellac on that old tape couldn't hurt anything before reinstall??? |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 1 2014, 12:58 AM Post #220 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
So I looked up varnishes and paints and enamels and epoxies and insulating properties for field windings and it's like everything else. There's supposed to be the best and then there's arguments for every combination you could think of that others have used. Here's the preferred options that stuck out the most for me . Good penetration, needs heat to dry, and should have insulating properties. Then I said to myself , "self, whatcha got on hand to try yer own experamentaintions . And , whatch got to loose if it didn't actually work. Sooo 1. What do I have that cures with heat Answer: high heat engine paint 2. What's a good insulator Answer: Ceramics 3. Wonder how good it'd soak in Answer. That tape and old windings soaked up a LOT. The other day at the parts store I had to buy a whole can of Chevy orange just to paint my oil filter housing. I recon that's the only thing orange on the whole jeep. The only Chevy orange they had was. 500 degree engine paint with ceramics mixed in with it. Now it may not work, but those field coils soaked up near about another a BUNCH of that paint, right through that old tape. Curing under a hair dryer now and leaving them a purty Chevrolet orange.
|
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 1 2014, 01:42 AM Post #221 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Oh. Didn't answer the question what have I got to lose. 1. Time 2. If it ever quits on the road try to talk my wife into pushing 3. I've got an old 24 volt john deer tractor starter, doesn't really look that much different 'but it's a thought of something to look at what kind of coils it's got in it 4. Never done this before but could definitely be doable. Make a jig, get some magnet wire, tape, and the right kind of varnish and wind one from scratch 5. Keep a lookout for cheap starter that might have some better field coils 6. Actually manage to find some nos field coils that'll fit the starter. 7. Got a bunch of willys generators, both 6 and 12v. Wonder how those coils would compare?? Ps. Even if this repair works will keep an eye out a bargain on 5 or 6 as a back up ....hint, hint, hint...
|
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 1 2014, 03:37 PM Post #222 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
So, this evening little Thomas was here and I was in the kitchen tinkering with this old starter plate![]() Anyways here it is now but not through, something else came up more important. ![]() First though, still rambling. The other day when I put my oil filter bracket on I REALIZED something wasn't right. After looking I KNEW IN MY HEART that even Willis wouldn't have mixed these nuts and brackets on the bottom and regular nuts and bolts and washers on the top one. 'That' just didn't make any sense or look right. ![]() On the bottom oil filter strap and them used nuts and bolts on the top strap. That's just a little toooo mixed up I said to my myself. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 1 2014, 03:54 PM Post #223 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
So anyway that's when I realized something had to be done and it's been rolling around in my head ever since. Well, today I got a box AND a unmarked envelope in the mail. I was 'hoping' the box had the iay distributer caps in it but had NO IDEA WHAT might be in the envelope so I opened it first. A IAY distributer tag fell out first and I'm like HUH?? And then THESE fell out and once again, I'm very slow sometimes not kidding , and NEWS FLASH Well, here's the pictures of the contents of that envelope that some SLY DEVIL sent to me![]() An ORIGINAL IAY distributer tag (much cleaner and nicer and with clear lettering than the pic shows)....AND more than enough SCREW BOLTS and PAL NUTS to correctly attach my oil filter.....!!!! Steve, thank you Soooo Much and you know I've got tons of extra parts and if there's ANYTHING I've got that you need for your DJ it's yours!! Ps. The other box did indeed have the NOS IAY distributer caps with the shiney brass terminals. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 2 2014, 03:08 AM Post #224 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
After cleaning,cutting down insulating fiber strips separating the copper contact strips for the brushes and hand machining (sanding the strips smooth and round and detailing the whole assenbly.
|
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Aug 2 2014, 02:19 PM Post #225 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
UPDATE: new information provided by Steve indicates the correct terminology for these are indeed NOT described as PALNUTS . Thanks to his new research and correct information I now that know that correct way to describe them is to refer to them as 'Clip On nuts !!! ![]() Whaoooo Hoooooo! Also I managed to get my hands on one of these ![]() Close enough! |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts · Next Topic » |



![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)

















sent to me


3:52 AM Jul 11