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Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic
Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,073 Views)
PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Update on wire colors after several dye baths and some experimenting.

Note. Keeping in mind I'm wiring for 6 volts which require more amps than 12v red wires are 10 guage. The majority rest are 12 guage, with enough 14 guage for the taillight and parking light pig tails,

All cloth covered wires I'v chosen are fine strand wires, not course, with a pvc type inside covering and cloth over that. The fine strand copper wires are also tinned, could be silver as old as it is???...but if you scrape it off you can see the pure copper.


Posted Image


Final note, that's probaby enough wire to make two or three wiring harness or so, it's just that I had some BIG rolls and heck I just decided to go ahead and dye up a bunch of it.

I also managed to get the steps and braces, the gas tank filler tube, and some nos brake and clutch pedals cleaned and primed and ready for final sanding and paint someday.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Copying this post from OLDTIME just so I can park it where I can find it again easily

Quote:
 
OLDTIME



You'll want 23 to 26 microfarads for a 6 volt Autolite system.
You'll want 25 to 28 microfarads for a 12 volt Autolite system.


PRECISION STATIC IGNITION TIMING

1) Remove all 4 spark plugs.
2) Remove distributor cap.
3) Manually rotate crankshaft by turning it clockwise.
4) Stop turning when breaker follower is on a flat side of the rotor cam.
5) The breaker points should be perfectly aligned and closed.
6) Again, manually rotate crankshaft by turning it clockwise.
7) Stop turning when breaker follower is on a high portion of the rotor cam.
8) Adjust breaker points gap. Feeler gauge should have slight drag at .020"
9) Continue rotating the crankshaft clockwise until you definitely hear or feel compression exiting the #1 spark plug hole.
10) Stop rotating crankshaft immediately and look at the timing marks.
11) Continue to turn crankshaft clockwise until the timing marks align at 5* BTC.
12) Now loosen the distributor advance arm.
13) Turn distributor body clockwise until it reaches it's adjustment limit.
14) Turn ignition on.
15) Rotate distributor body counterclockwise very slowly until you see a spark at the breaker points.
This spark at the points indicates the exact moment when points begin to open.
16) Tighten the advance arm in that exact position.
17) Retest and then turn off the ignition.
18) The ignition system is now precision static timed and should function very close to it's optimum dwell.





Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
For once NEW TOYS!!!

Posted Image


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Everything's new in the boxes with warranties, (pretty sure though there'd be nobody left to honor them) papers, and all attachments and extras. Hoping my jeep won't mind that the analizer isn't inductive pickup, especially since it cost a whole TEN DOLLARS!!


Still wanna come up with a timing light of some kind from somewhere.


Oh, better not forget, my wife bought me one of these (my old one bit the dust when my water heater went out and I had to have it last week when the dadgum washer went out.

Posted Image


Whatever happened to stuff that was actually made to last???
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Nothing like brand new old stuff with directions!

Remember when you were somebody if you actually owned an engine analyzer ?

Nice Compression Gage!
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Other Dj3a engine notes I'v put together for my own reference

Concerning early 6v systems etc

Correct carb carter
YF 2392s


Sub per ba carter yf 738s. yf 738sa

Like all Carter YF's the model 2392 is an excellent carburetor that is specifically calibrated for the L-134.
Basically it uses the same rebuild kit as the YF model 938.
Generally the calibrated restrictions are not serviced during a rebuild.
And modifying a restriction can effectively change the carburetors model number.

Correct starter

803867

(MCH 6203)6v
MCH. 6215 2nd 6v listed
Delco 118077?

Correct generator.....shunt 45 amps
Part number 809655
Replacement part number 942178

Pop parts. #

Ggw 4801D and 4801EN (45 amp)
Ggw 4802d 45amp (service standards)



GDz 6001d??? (Only 35 amp and different regulator) so wrong but besides the tag the only different number on the individual parts list is the armature.

The armature part number for the 35 amp GDZ 6001d is
GGY 2006F

The armature part number for the CORRECT 45 amp GGW 6001D armature is GGW 2006F





6 volt Voltage regulator for 45 amp 6 volt generator

Autolite vbe-6105-a....6 volt

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
F Bill,Nov 15 2014
07:31 AM
Nothing like brand new old stuff with directions!

Remember when you were somebody if you actually owned an engine analyzer ?

Nice Compression Gage!

Well, I never even actually owned a true engine Analizer before just a cheap tach and dwell meter. I did once have a pretty decent vacuum and compression gauge but that stuff has been long gone for years now so this stuff is definately a upgrade. :)


I didn't want to depend on a extra 12v battery to fire a timing light so of course I started searching for vintage.

This old vintage Sears precision instrument timing light fires off of a 120 v extension cord and for 5 bucks I mainly bought it because I thought it was Kool!

Posted Image



Just in case the electronics are buggered up I went ahead and got this 6/12 v combination as a back up. It cost in the neighborhood of 9 bucks so I figured I couldn't get hurt too bad either way.


Posted Image

Posted Image

Considering neither will likely have a bright focused xenon bulb I might have to dim the shop lights to even see the timing marks but that'll be ok. It's not something there should be a need for a lot of use anyway.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
DJ buyers beware. There's another YF 2392 S carb listed on eBay. Good 'looking' carb and probable rebuilt. Starting price 49.00

No pic of the casting # on the base so just for drill (as you know I no longer need one myself) I made a inquiry.

WRONG BASE on this carb. It's another one that sometimes when being rebuilt the (for whatever reason) correct 1-648 base has been replaced with a wrong 1-630 base.


Unlike the previous one I spotted he did not pull the listing, nor did he note that the base, which I can ASSURE you is calbrated differently from the 1-648 throttle base.

(see DJ carbureator thread on this site to verify)

Bottom line is while this carb will 'probably' work, it's not truly correct for a DJ, or anything else due to the mix and match parts.

Charles


Edit. This was his response to my inquiry.


Quote:
 
Quote:
 
Dear ctate1957, Mine is also a 1-630. I have many carburetors, and I have the one you are looking for with the base casting number of 1-648. I will list the carburetor, but it is more expensive I will notify you when I list it.


Ps again. I never told him I was looking for one (I'm not) when I made the inquiry but with him selling one wrong I would be nervous about the other not knowing what parts had been put into it.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
You know, this bracing is cleaning up a little better than even I expected.

I'v still got to weld up a few holes and replace part of the flanges where it's too rusty especially on the lower end and across the top of the fenders but it's starting to look like it's all going to work out.

Posted Image

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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glennstin
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I've been working with Papa C on these. More than likely they are from 6 cylinder Mustang and Falcon. 20+ years ago cheap 15"radials were not common, but 14" were very available. My Miss Willy (56337-10488) arrived from her California haunts with a full set. These 14" wheels were everywhere, cheap and bolted perfectly on our DJ3A's. Every DJ3A owner is searching for 15" original wheels. Probably all those were just thrown away. DJ3A, Aero Willys , Fleetvan and 4 cylinder 2WD Scouts seems to be the interchange list. Early Rambler wheels work fine, take the W dog dish caps, but are not a perfect match.
1963 CJ3B, 1962 Surrey Project, 1961 DJ3A, 1956 DJ3A, 1953 CJ3A Farm Jeep, 1949 Jeepster, 1948 Station Wagon Project, Al-Toy Model Jeeps, Willys Special Equipment Galore, Willys History and Literature. WILLYS BLOOD Runs in My VEINS.
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
glennstin,Feb 2 2015
10:49 AM
I've been working with Papa C on these.  More than likely they are from 6 cylinder Mustang and Falcon.  20+ years ago cheap 15"radials were not common, but 14" were very available.  My Miss Willy (56337-10488) arrived from her California haunts with a full set.  These 14" wheels were everywhere, cheap and bolted perfectly on our DJ3A's.  Every DJ3A owner is searching for 15" original wheels.  Probably all those were just thrown away.  DJ3A, Aero Willys , Fleetvan and 4 cylinder 2WD Scouts seems to be the interchange list.  Early Rambler wheels work fine, take the W dog dish caps, but are not a perfect match.



Thanks Glen and others for helping me clear this up in my mind. Especially for verifying that the rambler wheels would accept the smaller DJ3A 'w' hubcaps. I'm not forgetting Steve either who managed to show us how to adapt some of these ford hubs to replace worn hubs on his DJ in a previous thread.

Here's the stamped impressions, both inside and out on known Kelsey-Hayes (KH) 15" DJ3A rims.


Inside

Posted Image


Inside

Posted Image


Outside



Posted Image

Overall


Posted Image


Both DJ3A small 'W' dog dish and the larger Surrey full hubcaps fit these wheels.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
And THEN.....

There are these 15" MYSTERY WHEELS

Posted Image


KH on the right, MYSTERY WHEEL on the left

Posted Image

MYSTERY WHEELS], lower picture have no outside markings or stampings and a deeper groove down the middle. They fit a DJ3A hub perfectly

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
The smaller 'W' DJ3A hubcaps will NOT fit these MYSTERY WHEELS but I suspect the larger Surrey hubcaps will. (I haven't tried to test fit the larger hubcaps yet)

Markings INSIDE the MYSTERY WHEELS

Posted Image

Posted Image

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Both of mine of this type appear to say

'ELECT OFUSE which may actually should be
'ELECTROFUSE'????

And below that

'MADE'.... Before it fades out
Which may should be MADE IN USA???


FBill was recently kind enough to point out that the encircled 'MW' likely might stand for


MOTOR WHEEL

I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him



Quote:
 
FBILL: The logo in your last picture appears to be MW.....which may be Motor Wheel....a supplier to Willys during early 2A times...Both KH and MW made rims for willys but they are definitely different....I wonder if MW made th rim you have for another willys product....??


So now I can officially 'or unofficially' refer to them as
MOTOR WHEEL MYSTERY WHEELS!

Yet no idea what they actually were made for or when.

Again, the smaller Willys DJ3A Dog Dish Hupcaps do NOT fit these rims.


EDITED TO ADD THIS IMAGE OF MOTOR WHEELS TRADEMARK

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Rambler WHEEL part number X-40071



Posted Image

DJ3A WHEEL part number X-40135


Posted Image




http://jholst.net/tires-wheels/MotorWheelCat_1964a.pdf




Posted Image



now convinced this 15x4J

Posted Image[/UR]

has to be the 2 wheels I have. Still don't know the exact and correct application.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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Joe Friday
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Just to add to your confusion, that "X" number was a national wheel and rim sales association number, sort of like a hollander exchange for wheels. It wasn't a manufacturers number, although many times the manufacturer applied a label with both that number and their own.
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
This is definitely more fun than roofing houses!!!

SPEEDOMETER RESTORATION SHOP

Luckily nothing's broke. One of the TENS was locked up due to dried oil around the main shaft. It took a little bit amount of heat to get it unstuck and freed up.

The other Ten and the Eight are just a bit sluggish. Enough fresh oil might have been good enough but I supposed a good cleaning and refreshing might be in order from for all of them while I was at it.

None of the main springs were broke.

The only destructive thing I had to do was drill out the back side of the rivets holding the face plate to get into the gears but I'll figure out a way to replace them.

Also I want to reset the odometers to zero and polish and clean everything up as best as I can.

And this isn't all, I'v got another EIGHT packed away with my wiring harness and another 9 on the last DJ I bought.


Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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