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| Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,090 Views) | |
| PapaC | Feb 13 2014, 12:49 AM Post #16 |
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Papac
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The wheel back on its holding pin![]() The cancel mechanism back in place ![]() The larger inside diameter washer that separates the mechanism and the turn arm in place
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 13 2014, 12:54 AM Post #17 |
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Papac
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Now for the turn arm and spring![]() The smaller of the two washers ![]() And finally the bulb housing and the last inside screw ![]() |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 13 2014, 01:40 AM Post #18 |
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Papac
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Touched up the green, re-installed the lens and now it's time to box it up for someday when I get my dj far enough along to install it. When I get bulbs for my speedometer etc I'll get one for this too. ![]() Speaking of, I want to go into and do the same type of maintenance, part replacement as needed and restoration to my speedometer, my generator, starter, carb, motor....., Well, pretty much everything that comes apart that I can. If I live long enough that is!!!
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| SteveK | Feb 13 2014, 07:37 AM Post #19 |
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WOW, what a detailed and precise process and description. Excellent! Related, I thought I would share how I straightened out the rubber on the wheel for this turnsignal that PapaC has. When I got it, the Jeep had been parked mostly under a tarp in South Florida heat and humidity for 16 years. That caused the rubber on the wheel to conform to the position it sat against the steering shaft, along with the typical dryrot of the rubber over time. My method was to first put the wheel out in the sun all day and let it warm up. Then I used sockets large enough to fit the rubber area starting at the disk edge, then clamped the 'socket sandwich' into my vise over night. The next day repeat with the next size up sockets. The third day towards the edge of the rubber, I left it in place for several days in the vise. Eventually it straightened out. I was afraid to try forcefully too fast for fear of breaking the brittle rubber. From the looks in the pictures, it has retained its flat shape. My only concern was, Is the center pivot-cancellation-tip too worn to work, and just what did it look like new? I had asked for anyone that had pics of a good one earlier on the site, but got no replies. I would love to see what that tip started out like. Papac, you sure are going at it strong for a true 'total restoration'. Thanks for your teaching lessons, and Good Luck with the rest of the project. SteveK |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| PapaC | Feb 13 2014, 01:26 PM Post #20 |
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Papac
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The thing is, I don't think the extremely offset pointed tip was worn at all like we originally thought . I think I determined that it was made that way on purpose, even though I didn't have another to look at. This thing is very very sensitive to tolerances. It's also going to depend on having just the right pressure when installed so that the wheel is touching the steering shaft. The real problem with it functioning (after Steve and I repaired the rubber wheel) was inside the switch itself as I discovered while studying it. The toasted contact pressure springs contributed, but the 'main' problem was the looseness caused where the solder had broken loose that holds the pin tight in its slot that it's attached too. This allowed that pin to 'wiggle' just enough that it wouldn't engage and disengage correctly. Now, with just a bit of pressure on the wheel, mimicking the pressure that would be applied against the steering shaft, it seems to be working perfectly as the wheel is turned. When the switch is engaged, right or left, the mechanism that is underneath the arm holds in place. After turning as the direction of the steering shaft is reversed, (straightening up in the road) that tiny offset point or cam in the center of the rubber wheel nudges that mechanism back towards the center position, essentially turning off the switch. To 'fix' it I had to learn to understand how it all worked. Before repair that little bit of wiggle in the switch pin itself would have prevented that function from working. Steve, Thanks for straightening out the rubber wheel and throwing this in with the other stuff!!! As a note, different versions of these things are often on ebay, sometimes nos for way less than a hundred dollars or much cheaper. But 'those' aren't 'mine' and weren't 'free' so I decided to tear into it and figure it out.
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 13 2014, 01:55 PM Post #21 |
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Papac
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Follow up. This is a close up of the pointed pin which served as a cam. This pin is actually freewheeling with no or very little contact unless the turn signal is engaged, right or left.
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| SteveK | Feb 13 2014, 06:54 PM Post #22 |
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That very well may be the correct shape. My Dispatcher only has 87K miles on it. The bent rubber was the main problem I saw when I took the signal cover off. THAT certainly wasn't going to work bent. The tip, not knowing what it should look like, just looked worn to me, but I didn't work on it beyond the rubber wheel part. I'm glad you are taking care of it. Now my Uncle has two Willys rides representing him. He may even be more proud to be a part of what all you are doing to your 'restoration', than what I've done to mine. |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| F Bill | Feb 13 2014, 08:47 PM Post #23 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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Great stuff....Someday I will get a peek inside my Sparton switches....and when that time comes I'm coming back to this thread. |
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| PapaC | Feb 14 2014, 02:05 AM Post #24 |
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Papac
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Well, that was fun. Intense at times, but fun. Let's do a horn. REFRESHING A 6 VOLT WILLYS HORN for my 1956 DJ3A DISPATCHER I didn't and kinda still don't know exactly what one is correct for my dj. Here's what I finally decided to use. ![]() ![]() If it's not correct at least it's authentically old....and has a cool look to it. If I had a different model of willys ( older, patched up, cool) I'd use it as is because of the smooth even rust covered patina. Unfortunately for this project that's not a option. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 14 2014, 04:28 AM Post #25 |
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Papac
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Cracking this horn open is a slow process. I can guarantee you from the feel that trying to loosen these nuts without preparation the studs would twist off. I'm trying to prevent that from happening. Here's what I've been working with ![]() Controlled applications of acid, wire brushing, cleaning, heating and cooling.....all multiple times (without ever letting everything get too hot' have got me to this point. ![]() Now I'll just spray with some thin oil and let them soak awhile. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| SteveK | Feb 14 2014, 08:01 AM Post #26 |
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That looks like my 12Volt horn. I thought you were going to stick with the 6Volt? The 6V ones I've seen are longer trumpet style. I just polished my aluminum back plate, and sanded the front and painted it, instead of taking it apart. I don't have the patience you do, nor the skills and knowledge of chemicals, etc. I hope the membrane is good. Good Luck! |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| F Bill | Feb 14 2014, 04:37 PM Post #27 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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I've heard of amazing results with oxalic acid, and have been using Evaporust on my bike parts lately but it isn't cheap. It doesn't seem to damage the metal at all , and doesn't damage paint either. But.. non ferrous metal can be an issue. If you were to set it in a pan so it was soaking only the edge of the horn up to the nuts I think it might do the trick. BTW I wouldn't consider any of this to be off topic anymore..
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| PapaC | Feb 14 2014, 05:43 PM Post #28 |
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Papac
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The operation has been a success.![]() Direct pressure with a open end wrench didn't work and the round headed bolt immediately began to spin. They were not pressed in at all, just stuck through there loose and then tightened . Working with 'two' small wrenches was the answer. I held one on the nut and began to bump that wrench with the other.....back and forth. Bump gently but steadily...first towards the tightening position and then bump back towards loosening. Did this back and forth and back and forth. In the scheme of things it only took a few minutes and all were free. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 14 2014, 06:00 PM Post #29 |
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Papac
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I was using q-tips and undiluted muratic acid, and then wire brush, and then heat enough to burn the acid off. Then repeat until it got shiny. Towards the end I could actually see the acid steaming out from the edges of the joints in the threads and from around the washers. Used a little fan to keep what fumes there were away ................................................ I was expecting the off topic remark any time now. But what do ya do?? Litter the site with new topics about fixing 'parts'???? |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Feb 15 2014, 02:28 AM Post #30 |
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Papac
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Now I know why the 4 rivet head screws didn't need a shoulder on them or pressed in so the nuts would tighten during the original installation. It was because they have tiny little upraised locking divots underneath their heads. I wonder what the person who put this together the first time would have thought if he had knew at the time that this would be being worked on this many years later.
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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3:52 AM Jul 11