Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the discussion forums section of the website CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived in the Tech Tips section of the website. If you post a tech problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it may be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.
Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.
| You're currently viewing the forums as a guest. This means there are some features you can't use. If you register, you'll be able to post messages and use member-only features such as customizing your profile and sending personal messages. Registration is simple and free. Join the CJ-3B Bulletin Board! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,072 Views) | |
| PapaC | Feb 16 2015, 03:18 AM Post #286 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Working on one of the King Sealey TENS (Which even though they're pictured in the early parts list has NEVER actually been spotted on a DJ that I know of.) ![]() The two gears shown both had a light coat of dried oil on them. Now Cleaned up and ready to be put back into this main gear, shaft, and magnet housing.
|
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 16 2015, 04:29 AM Post #287 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Here's the first gear slid back in. Held in place by putting a tiny brass washer on the end and then a tiny pin snapped into place. I didn't try to remove the main shaft and magnet, that would have been too destructive. ![]() Next this gear set just slips into a hole with a thrust washer on this site only. ![]() Slip on the speedometer needle shaft assembly over the magnet once you've determined the spring isnt broke and have it cleaned up. Line the pins up in the plate that holds it and the gear, and put in the two screws to secure ![]() Up until just a few seconds ago, no kidding I was worried about getting the odometer put back correctly and set to zero. Now I'v figured out the gears can only go in one way.....and I betcha money if I take a small piece of wire and keep it threaded through all of them tiny holes in the number wheels, the gears, and the gear holders It'll line everything perfect!!! And then that wire will slip right out. That HAS to be the key, otherwise how could the factory workers have lined them up right??? (Fingers Crossed) ![]() I'm tired but we'll find out tomorrow!!! Charles |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 19 2015, 05:49 AM Post #288 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Lining up and putting together the odometer assembly pieces. The vice grips aren't clamped to the gear. That would ruin it. Everything's just kind of balancing there so I can pick up the next pieces. VERY delicate operation but they sure did shine up good!!![]() Back together ![]() And then I discovered putting the odometer back in the speedometer asembly itself correctly was the HARDEST PART OF THE WHOLE OPERATION !! There's a lot that's got to stay lined up until everything including the end pins and the little slots on the gear holders are all snapped into place. Securing part of the face and gear keepers with masking tape where I knew there was going to be a open area so that I could freely remove it later turned out to be the key. Otherwise everything tries to go all cattiwampus and makes you want to throw it all in the garbage!!! ![]() ps. I made and pre painted threaded rivets out of modified little brass screws to replace the factory rivets that hold the face on. My last surprise was that these odometers were likely factory installed just for a minute not set at 00000.0'but at 99999.9 miles!!! They were probably then bench tested for appx 1/10 of a mile. This would have engaged every single gear and wheel as it spun each number over exactly once to 00000.0 miles proving it worked per specifications and was put together and installed correctly. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| SteveK | Feb 19 2015, 08:29 AM Post #289 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
Charles, Interesting! What did you use to clean up the surfaces without destroying the coloring? |
|
SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 19 2015, 02:12 PM Post #290 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
There's only ONE very special method that I could think of that might not smear or destroy those old numbers and faces. They were pretty dirty. The corner of a folded paper towel 'barely' dampened with a tiny bit of warm water and Dawn dish washing soap cleaned them up pretty nice then polished dry with a very soft piece of cloth such as used to clean eye glasses.There's still a barely noticible off color tinge to the white on the numbers on the odometer but they're a 100% cleaner and more natural looking color now. Betcha there were used car dealers that were GOOD at this back in the day. Maybe not at getting it back to 00000.00 because they would have only had to change a couple of the higher numbers at the end to drop the mileage. And then there would have been the ones that 'weren't' so good. They would likely have spun the numbers forcing it over the gear or not getting the gear holders snapped back in place in the housing correctly. Those would have been the ones that left the odometer numbers forever slightly out of line once the gear re-engaged to move the wheel!!! |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 19 2015, 06:37 PM Post #291 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Learning curve beginning to kick in. A piece of tape holding the second one in alignment until I could get it snapped in This one went together quicker. I installed the odometer before I put everything back together. Here you can see how the gear holders are supposed to fit on the housing if you look closely. It also helped make it easier that the main spiral gear is not yet installed and in the way. Same as before it's going to come up 9's straight across. ![]() |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 20 2015, 12:03 AM Post #292 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Working on the 'EIGHT' King Seeley speedometer that HAS been seen on early DJ3A's. Well parts wise it's way less quality than the two TEN speedometers shown in the back of this image. ![]() P Cheaper material on both guage hands and the speedometer pointer itself. The housing is pinched where the main gears go in making them unserviceable except for cleaning and oiling in place Cardboard sleeves instead of rubber or plastic sleeves directing the light from the bulbs PLASTIC number wheels instead of steel alloy like on the TENS. Paper thin gear holders between the wheels Not sure yet if the odometer wheels can even be dissembled on the EIGHT. Instead of a removable pinch pin holding the wheels together like on the TEN's the cheaper number wheel set has a piece of brass press fit over the shaft holding it all together. EDIT: don't try taking the plastic King Seeley number wheels apart. Even being.....well apparently not careful enough... I broke a chip between the 0 and 9 out of one of the wheels. ![]() Now being repaired (the one with tape stuck to it) And then I got REALLY double crossed. Seems they failed to punch any line up holes in the paper thin gear holders. That's going to cause me to have to do some thinking by George!!! |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| SteveK | Feb 20 2015, 09:42 AM Post #293 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
Too bad about the chip. Did the chip go into the number area, and if so, how will you repair it? Can you interchange the odometers between "8"s and "10"s? How is it you have an "8" and two "10"s? What happened to the "9"s? When were "10"s used?...Cj5's???? |
|
SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 20 2015, 09:08 PM Post #294 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Ok luckily the chip was between the numbers when my pliers slipped. Even though it was small the piece that came out disintegrated. I primed the area to be repaired with a touch of super glue. Most glues don't like to stick to slick plastic. Then I used the masking tape as a backing piece and filled with JB weld. I haven't yet but later I'll trim and sand off the excess and touch up with black paint. Since the thing isn't NOS but just repaired I'm betting it won't be really noticible. Nos odometers pop up from time but they generally cost more than I paid for this one as it came free with some other parts that I actually bought. I'v got another EIGHT that started out better looking than this one that's out in my shop packed away with my wiring harness so at the very 'least' I expected this one would be good for parts. Little regulator and gauges are almost perfect. Awhile back I actually offered to GIVE this one to a person that had bought a early DJ on EWILLYS. He didn't seem interested so I'll just likely pack it away when I get it back together. I like having extra obscure parts whether they're worth anything or not. I'v got a total of two KING SEELEY TENS, two KING SEELEY EIGHTS, and two STEWARD WARNER NINES. Best I can tell? The EIGHTS with the external regulator have been seen used on 1956 and 1957 DJ3a's. My information is vague but after that for sure DJ3A's went to the standard 12v Steward Warner NINE speedometers without a external regulator and stayed with that right up until the end of their production run. The fancy King Seeley Ten's with external regulator are even more vague to ME. I'v found some posts on other sites that say they were used on some early CJ5's. I once saw one of these TEN's being advertised for sale as coming off of one of the Willys cars...maybe a aeros or wagon??? I'm not sure and I'm not even sure the seller was sure!! The numbers show that there were appx 2510 DJ3A's made in 1956. 1956 56337 10001 To 56337 12510 for a total of 2510 Of these 2510 only app. TWENTY [B/] remain on the production survivor chart!!! Of these TWENTY many are incomplete and missing gauges, parted out, and some converter to 4 wheel drive. One of these is even a factory floor shift instead of column shift! Of these TWENTY the ones listed as still having a early EIGHT speedometer drops down into the single digits!!! Do I believe the 1956 DJ3A's used a KING SEELEY 8 speedometer. The answer is positive YES Do I believe the 1956 DJ3A's NEVER EVER used a KING SEELEY 10 (100mph speedometer) or that it might have been a option??! PROBABLY NOT BUT INCONCLUSIVE WITHOUT FURTHER EVIDENCE. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 21 2015, 04:11 AM Post #295 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
The chip itself ready for trimming, sanding, and touch up.![]() It actually came out pretty nice ![]() This thing was a bugger to get together right. The first time I tried it came out BETWEEN all zeros and nines. The second time wasn't much better. Each gear holder and number wheel has to be exactly correctly timed. I was REALLY missing the line up holes like on the TEN speedometers. Next..... BENCH TESTING!!! |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 21 2015, 04:30 AM Post #296 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Here's the EIGHT with a drill driving it and holding steady at just under 40 mph.![]() Notice the odometer reading!!! As I ran it up to 1.5 miles It was tripping over pefectly!!! Here's one of the tens on the same drill. It's holding at just over 40mph. ![]() Notice the odometer wheels just starting to roll over And here's the other ten. This un here is getting it!! It's holding (same drill, same speed) at 45 mph... ![]() There is a way to 'slightly' adjust these speeds but that's close enough for me. Besides that if I do decide to ever use that one it'll maybe make me think I'm running FASTER than I am!!! Nah, I'll probably adjust it down just a fraction so it'll be closer to the other two. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 21 2015, 04:42 AM Post #297 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
![]() There. That's closer. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 21 2015, 08:33 AM Post #298 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Three down, three to go. [/URLNotice I painted the bezels black on one of the TENS, the chrome was too flakey to polish out decent, The eight is missing the connecter between the fuel and heat guage. That will have to be rectified. Backs not recoated. I gently wiper down the zinc plating with some phosporic acid which helped even out the color without completely destroying the plating. ![]() I reinforced the cracked gaskets for the glass with some carefully placed candle wax And I softened and straightened out the dried and almost crispy paper that insulated the fuel and heat gauge with some beeswax which I later wiped off clean after the cardboard had softened back up and ironed flat. Next I'll tear into this Ohio Steward Warner 12 v NINE and see what I get myself into. You can actually see dust and dirt floating around in it. ![]() Gotta be careful here, this is likely the one that may wind up in that old 62 one of these days. The one in it looks pretty rough but still, it may clear up one a lot. After this one I'll likely go through the EIGHT still hooked to my new wiring harness. The rusty 9 in the 62 will just have to wait for its day sometimes in the future. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| SteveK | Feb 21 2015, 08:55 AM Post #299 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
Very nice looking Speedometers. You mentioned 'adjusting' them. Could you show and explain how? Also, are the "10"s 6V or 12V or does it matter? Thanks! |
|
SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Feb 21 2015, 09:16 AM Post #300 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
THANKS. The TENS and the EIGHTS, are 6 volt. The 9 is 12v. Adjusting.... One of the 10's had the spring wound a notch too tight. I thought I had noticed the needle snapping too quick back to zero. The spinning wheel that goes over the magnet has a spring loaded notch that keeps tension on the main spring. At first it didn't even want to come up to speed. I pulled up the spring and let the pressure off one spin of the wheel and then readjusted the needle to 0. That may or may not be the one that was trying to hit 45, I kind of lost track there. To slow it down to the 40 range like the other two I just repositioned the pointer a little farther down towards the bottom of the 0. Several small adjustments moving that needle got it real close to where I wanted it. By then I noticed I had actually had that pointer installed a bit too high to begin with. By the time I got it set it was stopping the pointer at almost the exact same spot on the 0 as the other ten was.......thus equaling out the speed like it was supposed to. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts · Next Topic » |



![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)












then polished dry with a very soft piece of cloth such as used to clean eye glasses.








[/URL

3:52 AM Jul 11