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| Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,070 Views) | |
| PapaC | Mar 3 2015, 08:29 PM Post #316 |
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Papac
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Whew, thanks for the rescue. This was starting to get over my head completely figuring these things out! |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 4 2015, 03:32 AM Post #317 |
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Papac
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Neat trick. I found a easier way to take apart, get the dried grease out and service these IF the gaskets haven't been damaged. This is from the black better looking one. It was Not working. 1. The bottom hook on this sliding piece will hold the bottom plate on the wiper motor even with the screws all out. It's spring loaded........a spring that is VERY difficult to remove and put back as previously shown. ![]() 2. Using both a small screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers gently pull down on the hook... unhook it......and ease it out of the way as shown. Careful, no need to get rude or bend anything. ![]() 3. This releases the bottom plate so that you can completely remove it from the main housing. ![]() 4. Swipe out all of the old grease you can and then completely clean with a can of carb or brake spray cleaner. If the main gasket on the paddle hasn't ever been buggered up you're golden and don't even have to remove it. Re-lube everything, and reverse the steps to reassemble. ![]() Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 4 2015, 03:47 AM Post #318 |
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Papac
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Likely I won't repaint this (the black one with the numbers on it until after I see if I can somehow come up with the right part number motor for the drivers side. I'm GOING to run dual wipers even if I have to invent or come up with a cut off to the motor on the right side to stop the vacuum and park it by hand. In the meantime ANY help would be appreciated in locating a SF 616-1 optional right side motor. Working or not as long as it's not too beat up. If so please post or PM. Thanks!!! Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 4 2015, 01:35 PM Post #319 |
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Papac
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So I figured out a little 1/4" gas inline valve would kill vacuum to the right hand side so it could be parked by hand until that valve was back opened. That just keeps getting wronger and wronger though. So I broke down and called Midwest Willys. No joy. He did give me a # for Willys Overland and they're not sure but checking. Seems those SF 616-1's are gonna be another one if them sneaky little items to find and get yet hands on. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| SteveK | Mar 4 2015, 09:30 PM Post #320 |
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Member
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Charles, Have you considered posting a WTB on the 3B section? Lots of people with lots of info and contacts...cooperative too. |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| PapaC | Mar 7 2015, 02:30 AM Post #321 |
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Papac
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Well Steve, alls well that ends well and it's been some pretty valuable stuff I'v learned. Thanks to div4gold we figured out he was in possession of one that he didn't need and I did. a TRICO SF 616-1 passenger side vacuum wiper motor that is. And that the drivers side base has a 2 cast on it in the bottom curve and the passenger side has a 1 cast in the same place. I'll have to borrow the handle off of one of the SF 616's so that my opposing pair will match but that's ok. I'll keep the extra handle-less one around until I can see what kind of shape the one is on the RUSTY jeep that I have. Then I got to thinking crazy again. Wondering how hard it would be to smelt down and make a pair of sterling silver handles for the pair. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 10 2015, 11:41 PM Post #322 |
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Papac
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Took out a little bit of time to work on a FUN project for a friend. Restoring and spit shining a DJ3A data tag for him to help repay some favors he's done for me almost through ![]()
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 14 2015, 12:53 AM Post #323 |
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Papac
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Final version of the restored dj3a serial number tag came out like this ![]() (Not mine) Looks better in person, most especially the color which the flash messed with a bit Cleaned, A thin coat of self etching primer Polished out with a used SOS pad A spec of spot putty across a scratch Carefully sanded with 600 grit A thin coat of black enamel Semi baked on and then polished out with both the 600 grit (wet work) and the sos pad A final coat of gloss black enamel Heated and re-baked on several times during the number cleaning process Ready to ship back to its rightful owner Letters and Numbers are the natural punched out fnish, no paint or clearcoat Would suggest a final polishing with some wax after the paint ages a bit more for maximum effect. better shine and protection |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 15 2015, 09:23 PM Post #324 |
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Papac
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Un-finished weld seam and pitted metal![]() LEADING REVISITED With better tools and tinning fluid than I used back when I was working with my bed floor things are going easier, better, and faster. Various photos of yet unfinished lead body solder in the weld seams on my recently replaced hand made passenger side floorboard. ![]() ![]() ![]() Tinning fluid, paddles, and real beef tallow home made. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 16 2015, 01:06 AM Post #325 |
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Papac
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Things I did different this time 1. Made better tinning fluid. Instead of using zinc recovered from pennies I put a pure zinc ingot in with my muratic acid. I did take precautions because the initial reaction is pretty violent. I let this set several weeks before removing what was left of the ingot and strained. When applied, heated, and scrubbed off this fluid leaves a shiny zinc coating that is perfect for hot lead to stick to. 2. I melted my body solder and added to the lead content so as to lower the working temperature. Then I poured and molded 1/4" by 1/8" dia. Square sticks. Much better than thick heavy sticks for small repairs or doing a little bit at a time 3. Carved out my paddles more to the shape of what they were supposed to look like. 4. Saved unsalted beef fat to cook down into tallow and strained and put in the freezer until needed. This made a tremendous improvement in how the hot paddles pushed the molten lead around and smoothed it out and feather edged it compared to the last time I tried leading. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 16 2015, 10:17 PM Post #326 |
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Papac
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LIGHT READING excerpts from a early DJ3A a Willys Dispatcher Brochure with specifications and tire size ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now if I could just spot one of them 'souped up?' law enforcement dispatchers!!
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Mar 19 2015, 09:47 PM Post #327 |
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Papac
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Updated to my next project. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Heavy and in better shape than imaged from a picture. No patchwork, extremely solid, mid 50's, cj3b fan shroud and radiator. I just boiled out with a caustic solution, cleaned and straightened the fins from one of my DJ radiators and refinished. This radiator physically looks the same except for a couple of numbers. That fan shrouds too solid and in original shape to even consider cutting up or modifying in my opinion. DJ's due to a cost savings didn't come with fan shrouds but I wanted one on mine. I can't wait to check. Does anyone know if it's going to fit or not? |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| oldtime | Mar 20 2015, 10:17 AM Post #328 |
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MODERATOR
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Basically the side mount CJ-3A and CJ-3B radiators are identical. The shrouds are different. I believe you may need to locate a 3A shroud. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| PapaC | Mar 20 2015, 07:44 PM Post #329 |
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Papac
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Your exactly right. It won't fit. Even though I was hoping to get lucky somehow that answer was comforting to know before I actually carried it outside to check. Though it's nothing to cry about I find myself in somewhat of an embarrassing pickle by not doing all needed research first and now have to consider my options. Before I commit myself to the actual crime of altering the shroud I'll see if anyone is interested in a trade. ![]() |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Apr 26 2015, 12:40 PM Post #330 |
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Papac
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This was pretty fun if time consuming, especially considering what I had to work with. Notice I took the cowards way out by drilling enough holes to weld it to the DJ from the easy side. Also there's still four extra holes in the used up right brace that still needs welding closed. ![]() ![]() |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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3:52 AM Jul 11