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Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic
Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,089 Views)
SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Since I can't post pics here, I found pics of the 6Volt style horn I was thinking of. The first link is to a KW new horn at $225!!!!! Be careful with yours. Also, while there I also saw 6V instrument bulbs at $5 each !!! Better look at NAPA.

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/2594/w...rts-accessories

The next link is to a beautiful restoration of a Cj3A 6Volt still. Most I looked at were converted to 12V. This set of pictures has a clear view of the horn. All you have to do is fabricate/find the megaphone part and add it to yours to appear original...and even louder!!!

http://blog.kaiserwillys.com/cj-3a-custome...os/glen-heitman


I'm also wondering if the backing is the difference between the 12Volt and 6Volt base? Does anyone but me have the aluminum backing plate on their horn. I wish I could post a pic of mine to show what I'm talking about. Or for that matter, does anyone have a pic of a 12Volt with the aluminum, or a 6Volt horn on theirs that they can post? I also saw different front hole patterns on various installations. Some just round holes all over the face plate. Hmmmm, I wonder just how many horn variations there are out there....????
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Ok, now you guys are gonna have me checking every DJ in the line for a horn. Just what I need, another distraction. :rolleyes: I don't have any 6 volt DJ's however.(I think)

I thought maybe those were miniature carriage bolts but I see the textured heads and that explains a lot. The guy building them or the machine, would have used a high speed impact set at a predetermined torque setting and those would have spun right up. They sure aren't designed for easy removal, and they probably didn't care that you'd have to work so hard removing them.. Now if you ever gat to work on an old Sparton off Model A Ford, you see a well built horn designed to be serviced.

Good stuff. We need to rename this Papa C's tips and tricks and homespun lore..or Zen and the art of Jeep maintenance...(wait, that's been done..)
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]


Cleaned, rust removed, metal treated, primed and glazed, sanded and two coats of lacquer on the black. So I'm getting there slowly.

Posted Image

The aluminum piece is still in the process of being polished and I invented a new method of coating them little screws and washers with silver paint and clear coat without getting a big build up on the threads. I call it the 'spray and shake and heat and hope for the best method!!

They came out almost looking like they were bright galvanized but of course they aren't. I had already tried actually galvanizing some before but it didn't work out so hot.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
It's a shame all the details for the turn signal rebuild, and the horn too, included within this Topic won't be easy to find and retrieve some time later. Interesting and informative stuff!

I dug out my horn from my 12 Volt '62 and looked at it closer. It has the same cutouts in the face plate, but besides the aluminum back plate, I have brass looking rivets holding it together to be different. I measured 12.3 ohms across the terminals if that helps indicate anything??????? No stampings or branding to see the manufacturer or part number potential, or even the voltage required. That's all I got.
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I think the only ones you've really got to look out for if you're looking for something authentic is the ones stamped sparton. Lots of them, including all of the newer horns are just some kind of modern horn stuck inside a sparton housing.

I finally put mine back together. Lots of different washers some non insulating, some steel. It took me a bit to sort all of that back out. Placement is critical to keep the dc volts going like they should.

Here's an example

Posted Image

Those are one half of the points. You can see unstuck paint at the bottom where I accidentally put it together with the hole insulator 'now put on the back side where it belongs) on the wrong side.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
All contact points meticulously cleaned and a tiny tiny bit of vasolene to help keep connections from corroding. Regular electrical grease might have been better.


Here's what it looks like now

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Is it 'perfect'. Nope. Looks real good for 50 year old plus is what I'm thinking! Real close examination shows just a bit of imperfections and to me, authenticating the age of the piece and letting it still have a touch of character.

(Gotta have some kind of excuse, right?)
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I made sure that I returned the adjustments to their original settings. Tested momentarily with 12 v and it sounded!

It still sounds like 12v is a bit much so i have high hopes that when I actually can hook it to 6v it'll be just right.

Next problem is the mount.

Take a look, looks like some low life tried to rip it off the fender at some point and bent and cracked the spring isolators.

Posted Image


Posted Image


Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Spring steel is tricky . If it bends without breaking you're lucky. As you could see this was cracked. If I'd tried to just straighten, well, it just wouldn't have worked without causing more damage and cracking worse.


First I took a piece of flat steel and put it between the two sets of spring plates because I only wanted to heat one set (the bent and broke side. Then I took the temper out of that side by heating to just red hot and straightened.

Next I slid in a scrap piece of copper on as a backup plate. Made sure it was wedged tight.


Then I touched up the creases and breaks with a mig

Then I ground down the welds

Then I reheated to equalize any stress created

And this is where I'm out


Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Here's part of what I went through along the way

Posted Image


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Posted Image

I have strong suspicions that is a silver coating on the copper wire wrapped around the coil.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I recon this'll do for now

Posted Image

It is several several coats of lacquer so it can be polished out later but for now it just needs to set and let the paint cure awhile .
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Ah yes, but doth it beepeth? :D

I'll have to send you a box full of Autolites, you do nice work. I have about ten of them awaiting service. Seems I always find them in flea markets and if they are cheap I buy as they are a good subsititute for the 2A horns.. Spartons are much harder to find. For me anyway. I still haven't looked under my hoods to see what all I have in the DJ fleet, been too busy getting the 2A fleet cleaned up.
Posted Image
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Having a lot of fun, it's like Christmas all over again, discovering what I still have and what is worth fixing. The turquoise and camo jeeps are for sale if anyone needs another project.
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
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F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I have exactly ONE of those tail light spacers with all the jeeps I own. I will have to get it photographed for you...It is safely removed from the surrey tub and now sitting in the china cabinet.

Steering wheel nuts and horn buttons might be better sourced new as the old ones are usually pretty well trashed.

I have never seen one of those small air filters without a jeep attached. If you find TWO, let me know. I don' t think there would be any crime to using an oil bath but if the holes aren't there for that I understand the need for original. Perhaps an aftermarket unit for now until you find the right one the week after you buy the aftermarket one.

I dunno about what to do next... Are you getting close to driving a rolling chassis around soon? In that case I'd be doing the charging and starting system.
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Here's the light off the Surrey tub:

Posted Image

Posted Image
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I always, always pre heat or anneal higher carbon spring or hard steel before welding. When it's bent or broken there is a tremendous amount of stress created. Trying to weld without first relieving this stress inside the metal both before and after will cause it to break again,

Since I didn't heat beyond just barely soft red hot I never got it hot enough that it completely destroyed, or burnt out the existing carbon within the high carbon steel.

Thus, when I reheated it the least time by letting it cool down slowly those high carbon molecules would have somewhat realigned, bringing back 'some' of the original temper to the spring. Of this I am confident in this case .

Had I of cooled the spring in either oil, or water, or not annealed, it would have likely gotten so hard that it would have shattered at the least amount of stress put on it. If I had of heated it ever, beyond a glow or just red, it would have destroyed any hopes of ever holding up because the carbon would have been completely burnt out of the spring, making it just soft and mushy steel.
break or chip.




Later today I'll dig out the halls and take some pictures.

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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