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Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic
Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,084 Views)
SteveK
Member
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PapaC,Apr 29 2014
03:43 AM
Welllll........

First ya gotta sort through em to figure out which ones for sale

(It's not thaaat hard)

Then you can't help but kinda notice


Wellll...... Just a few things that don't seem hardly 'xactly' right




Ebay item number


191153288771


Don't worry though, the owner DID say it's missing the

Well, this is what he said


Quote:
 
Willys is missing surrey top canvas, but I have material and complete frame is attached. Restored in 1997 but has minor surface rust in various areas. Carbeurator on vehicle is not the original and linkage is not complete for rebuilt carb. I have original carb in box.Have not found the original oil bath air cleaner, but might still have it. Fuel filter bowl is not functional and is not connected. Might need distributor, is running rough. Less than 19000 original miles with good compression.Tires have less than 1000 miles on them.



Do ya think there mighta been, oh, I don't know, a couple other things he somehow maybe 'forgot' to mention???

Quote:
 
(I can't figure out how to do the quote in a box???)
Ebay item number
191153288771

WOW, just had a scare. I went to the referenced Ebay item and saw the first picture, and it was definitely Bruce's in that picture, but the tailgate, and vent cover on the passenger side put me at ease, it is NOT Bruce's. Pretty good starter for someone, bids are waaaaay low right now, reserve still not met.
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Quote:
 
(I can't figure out how to do the quote in a box???)


I copy the part I want to quote. I also keep the box in the upper left hand corner of this page I'm doing the typing for the reply from Normal mode to a Guided Mode.

That way when I click the quote icon it gives you a little window to either paste or you can type there. Press done and it'll put the quote in the reply box all by itself!!!

It looks like this if you take out the dots.

[.Q.U.O.T.E]. (I can't figure out how to do the quote in a box???) [./.Q.U.O.T.E.]


________________________________________

In normal mode just check the quote button.


It'll paste [.Q.U.O.T.E]. (- Dots on the reply window)

Type or paste the quote in the reply window

And press the quote icon again and it'll automatically paste the second part of the code

[./.Q.U.O.T.E.]. ( - dots)

I like the guided mode and it's separate little window better, it's easier to me.







Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
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Quote:
 
And turn it into a CONVERTIBLE !!!! 

Either that or go all out and turn it into one of them DJ100 prototype replicas!!!!


OK, thanks for the lesson on quoting. First attempt did not work.

...and why not do the "sportif" which has the gate but is a convertible???
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Those Sportif' are pretty sharp but now I'v been thinking about something else.


Since I'v already got the makings of a convertible maybe we'll just skip the sportif, chop it up, streach it out some and make it into one of those dj100 half cab soft tops with the wood stakes on the side of the bed!!!

Then we could reuse the windshield along with the tailgate..

Of course we could always CHOP the top by changing out the windshield!!!


Yep, that oughta cause some head scratching for sure once we get it finished! B)


Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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div4gold
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That's a great choice. Way to go Shawn.
Old retired fart living in Ione, WA. I have a 1964 CJ3B. Recently overhauled original motor, transmission and overdrive. 11" Bronco drum brakes on all 4. Needs a new coat of paint but that will have to wait till next summer, it's next summer and I'm working on that now :) UPS & FEDEX will continue to profit :)
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PapaC
Papac
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Full blown better example

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
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PapaC, Interesting comparisons of the tail sections of various Dj's, including my own, but I don't see what you are talking about??????

Could you be a little more specific. We all know the Dj was made from 'leftovers' and most of the odd placements and extra holes were to accommodate 4WD options, and even right-hand drives, but I can't even see the rear "crossmember" you are talking about with these pics.

OK, while I'm responding... your 'bigger picture' came thru. I always thought of that as the 'bumper brace', but now I see what you're talking about. I've already matched mine to the passenger side as I didn't like the way it stuck out there.

Let's see what other replies you get now...interesting question. WHY did they do that?
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Quote:
 
Let's see what other replies you get now...interesting question. WHY did they do that?


My question exactly!!!

The passenger side on all the pics I posted if you go back and look at the original pics on EWillys show an offset it the placement of the rear bumper (crossmember)

The passenger side appears to line up with the seam above it and the drivers side goes almost to the edge if the tub!

HELP and WHY and maybe WHAT WERE THE THINKING???
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Found it along with a semi-reasonable explanation

From G503 http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=169660


Quote:
 
Re: M38 REAR CROSSMEMBER (Bumper) problem by Ben Dover » Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:23 pm Many have noticed this feature on the M-38 and m-38A1 WO-800605 Jeep Rear crossmember. The reason for it is that the Chassis manufacturer used the CJ-3A/CJ-5 rear crossmember stamping for the M-38 and the M-38A1. The reason for the offset is to allow the installation of the Civilian Licence Plate which is centered on the Taillight. The difference in the Civilian and M-38 crossmember is the Licence Plate Slots on the Civilian Jeep.


From Early CJ5.Net

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread....ear-crossmember


Quote:
 
Re: 1971 cj5 rear crossmember if I remember right, the driver's side is longer to allow for the licence plate mounting holes. I could be wrong.


From the same thread, page 2




Quote:
 
I just replaced the one on my M38A1 and it is to the edge of the tub on the drivers side, but just to the edge of the joint between the rear panel and passsengers quarter (tailgate opening for you CJ guys!) So 3" or so shorter on the pass side.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
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Charles, After all the trouble and research that you have gone to trying to make your 'convertible' like "original", why would you blow it with the rear cross member, an obvious item? The OD and associated parts are 'bolt in' and can easily be reversed. It is not 'your design' that you are restoring (easily explains the offset issue), you're just the self-appointed historian 'caretaker'. Food for thought?
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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That's an EXCELLENT question, especially because since these will be RIVITED to the frame I agree. I do have an answer or at least 'excuses' why I consider deviating from original but before I give it I'd really like to hear any others thoughts on the subject.

So, iIF anybody else is reading this even if you normally don't post on this section, no matter what kind of jeep you have

Please share with me whatever your thoughts are on this subject of importance of originality on the front bumper and rear crossmember?
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I'm thinking, replacing with 'original like replacement parts' such as from various Suppliers, or used, still keeps the vehicle 'original looking' even if not a 'truly documented ALL ORIGINAL vehicle' like a 'barn find' might be. Of course the perfect 'barn find' would be worth the most, but an 'original type restoration' would be right below it.

Then there's the purpose of what you are doing the project for??? Investment, iconic era representation, or personal pleasure. Only you can determine the best fit for 'you'. What ever makes your Willy right for you...go for it!
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Investment has never been part of the picture because I'v always KNOWN the best way to loose money is for an amateur to spend a bunch of time and money on a restoration and then try to profit from it. The money would be safer in the bank!!!

My goal is a jeep that could 'about' pass the test of a fully iconic documented restoration WITH the EXCEPTION of a 'few' personal touches that just kind of let's the world know I'v been there.

One is the overdrive. As you said fairly easily reversed and I will keep in my possession the parts to do so.

The second? I don't like the appearance of a off centered crossmember. I know my knowledge in such matters is limited but once I spotted it, it just looks wrong.

The front bumper and rear crossmember I'm fabricating WILL be tastefully done and are being made out of the UGLY four inch channel iron bumpers that was originally on the jeep.

The worst material in the world to work with. Cutting and grinding those horrendous pieces of metal down to willys specs is not only insane....it is a monumental task to even tackle.

ie. cut to length, outside corners ground from square to an acceptable radius. Squaring up the inside angled flanges with hand tools, don't even ask. If you did I'd tell you HOURS of grinding. Location of holes and slots for the tag, another few hours of work. OH. And since the flanges of the channel aren't WIDE enough on the front it's going to need some ears added top and bottom to get it closer to spec!!!

The rear crossmember is even WORSE to make out of four inch channel iron. All of the above. But then you'd have to cut and relocate the middle of the top flange to duplicate that little drop down. On top of THAT and on top of grinding square and flat the inside flanges you'd have to SPLIT the channel somewhere down the web, take out a chunk so it's not too wide to fit the frame and weld it back together. And THEN straighten and stabilize the curve caused from cutting and then the heat of the welding.

If all of the above was done you'd about wind up with original 'looking' pieces but out of slightly heavier steel than what was provided. AND insane as it might seem, re-frabicating those ugly pieces of steel, to me, has turned them into a work of art.


Seems to me final touches and to add even more character should be to center the the dadgum rear end piece up with the frame, stamp my name and date inside it some where, AND to top it all off to the left of where the drivers side bumperette is to actually reset into the member itself a very tastefully done '1956' and on the right side in the same location 'DJ3A.

Toying with the idea of clear expoxy and crushed colored glass to fill the rescessed 1957' and the DJ3A on each end of the crossmember so that it will appear like a reflector.

Yep, for someone to try something like that without a cnc machine and only hand tools truly borders on total insanity when for just a couple a hundred dollars or so he could go and maybe buy some stamped out look alike unoriginal bumpers with no age on them at all. AND I can maybe save that two hundred give or take to buy some paint or something one of these days.

rough out work in progress


Posted Image

Posted Image

Just saying.... :blink:
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
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The target is clear, the plan in progress, the results surely to be unique...and the white coats are on the way... lol Good Job!!!!!
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Still working on my insane rendition of a rear crossmember .

Guess I'm gonna have to blame the mistakes (need some kind of excuse, right) on being half blind and trying to grind out 3/4 inch tall letters.


Posted Image

I'll get both sides sorted out before I move on to something else.

The numbers and letters 'shouldn't' stick out too much and be obtrusive may be 'partially' hidden by the bumperettes.

Won't know for sure until they come in.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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