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| Various DJ Parts Restorations ; intertwined with Off Topic | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 19 2014, 01:23 AM (16,083 Views) | |
| SteveK | May 13 2014, 06:24 AM Post #121 |
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Funny how in the pics it looks like welds..From the pics you submitted previously, it looks like if it is beyond (outside) the center line of the taillight mounts, it should be clear of the bumperettes. For a seemingly 'hyper-guy' always on the go, you sure must have a lot of patience.
Don't you think it is so when the tailgate is put down it doesn't get creased by the thin edge if it were facing up, plus they might sit lower (more clearance) 'upside down' if mounts are centered? Another way Willys maximized use of one part for multiple applications, and the Dj's have gathered a little from ALL of them... |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| PapaC | May 14 2014, 09:43 PM Post #122 |
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Papac
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Pretty sure I now hold the WORLDS RECORD for most time spent making willys bumpers!!! 'Part' of the problem has been lack of diagrams and measurments which apparently don't exactly exist and trying to get measurments from pictures. I figured out my tag slots were too high up and too close to the top flange on the front bumper. Welded them up, ground them smooth and recut them. Figured out the big hole in the front bumper (the useless hole for a hand crank which a dj doesn't have' was 1" diameter instead of a inch and a quarter like the trailer connector hole on the back crossmember is. Welded it up and fixed it. Figured out I had the little drop down in the rear crossmember a inch too wide. Fixed it. Still got to make the flange extensions so the ears on the front bumper will be wide enough. I'v got a piece of a big sheet of 1/4 inch plate I'm going to cut them out of to add to the channel hopefully sometime tomorrow. I expect that'll be interesting. Before I attach them I'll straighten the channel I'm attaching them too. That I don't mind so much, already have a plan and have straightened worse. Still gotta do the little bend back on each end of the front bumper. That I don't mind but I wish I had a real one so I'd know exactly what it looked like other than a picture. Best measurement I actually found was "slight bend, not measured" so I'm thinking it's kinda like a ' pinch of salt' when you're cooking. hopefully I'll get it close. But but but....got the numbers and letters and everything else looking good! also hope to have the rivets made and get en attached to the frame sometimes pretty soon. Anybody got a pinch of salt I can borrow??
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | May 15 2014, 03:19 AM Post #123 |
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Papac
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Wow! Just when I thought I was going to have to completely GUESS at that little kickback....56dj (thanks for that sooo much)....posted a picture of his original ALA tail lights . From that picture I learned there's a elbow shaped piece of rubber on the back of them that the wires go through!!! Then I clicked on his picture and looked at his album (hope that was ok) and there it was. The pinch of salt I was looking for!!! In his album was the BEST picture on the internet of a dj front bumper and on the left side, looking down, was a PERFECT picture of that kick back on the end of the front bumper I was looking for!!! THANKS 56 DJ without even knowing it you probably just saved my life!!!! |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | May 21 2014, 12:36 PM Post #124 |
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Papac
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Busted phone.... Lost Internet... Lost appx. 900 plus pictures, most Dj stuff Lost BUNCH of bookmarks Lost ALL pics of my research, thank God for this site and photobucket even if they are low resolution pics, at least that's something Managed to save contacts..that's good Still working on what I 'can' recover Saved emails and addresses waas hooo Repaired iPhone STILL has bugs that are aggravating and constantly having to power reboot to make it work Thanks STEVE for helping me with correct measurements on bumperett holes and hope your feeling better! 'Hopefully' pics tonight of completed handmade bumpers if this phone doesn't blow up between now and then |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| F Bill | May 22 2014, 06:27 PM Post #125 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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Dual picture storage or even triple is always a good plan.. I have Photobucket, the flash memory SD cards I took the pics on, and download to my computer too. I don't have a smart phone but there must be a way to save to the computer that isn't too clunky.... I learned my lesson with Webshots that you can't depend on any one source any more...RIP Webshots.........wherever you are. (I had one of the top 5 jeep related collections on Webshots....and lost it all when Webshots decided their business model was not working. |
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| PapaC | May 28 2014, 01:04 AM Post #126 |
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Papac
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Phone 'sorta fixed' Finished handmade bumper and crossmember ![]() ![]() Among other things right proud of my home made (from concrete anchor bolts) heated and flattened with a ball peen hammer and a piece of steel for a backing plate hand rivets ![]() Many more finished frame photos on the How I bought a Dj thread |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| SteveK | Jun 24 2014, 12:27 PM Post #127 |
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Charles, Just this last week I was tempted to bid on another Borg Warner Overdrive from a Nash because it had the slanted governor like yours. Mine is straight up and is verrrry close to the floor, even after I stretched the floor up a little. Any way, not only did the bellhousing it was bolted to look like a skeleton with three huge open areas around it, but I finally noticed there were no mounting ears visible. It bolts from inside the bellhousing. I decided against bidding for the unknown fitment. Obviously, not all Borg Warner overdrive R10 transmissions are exactly the same. My BW overdrive came from a 49 Jeeepster, and I was surprised to see the engine side bolt pattern for it is different from the Dj bellhousing. I had just 'assumed' all L-4's were the same boltup patterns, but I guess not. Sooo, if anyone needs a Jeepster bellhousing, I've got one available I can't use. P.S. the clutch arm is longer as well, and sticks out the side, where my Dj arm is contained inside the bellhousing and shorter. The bearing flange and pivot are the same for both, so the Jeepster must have a longer pedal action than the Dispatcher (assuming clutch bellcranks are the same). Live and Learn... |
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SteveK 62 Dispatcher South Florida | |
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| F Bill | Jun 25 2014, 11:52 AM Post #128 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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I'm pretty sure the floor shift was used on some DJ3A delivery style models as a normal option.... T-84 is WWII stuff....I wonder if is that part actually marked as fitting a T-84 or is it part of a part number or casting number that just happened to have t-84 in it? I don't have my parts books here to check what the actual part number is..A lot of WWII stuff ended up on later jeeps, but by the time the DJ3A appeared most of it had been reengineered to different specs and different numbers...In the WWII jeep a t-84 tranny was used, small and light, but when the 2A came out they changed to the T-90 which is larger and stronger. The T-96 I am familiar with 2WD versions only..with and without OD. |
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| PapaC | Jun 29 2014, 11:46 AM Post #129 |
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Papac
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Ok here we go Extra t96's.....filled with goodies ![]() Figured out these were probably t90 transmission assorted gears and as yet still unknown rear end gears (kinda 'hoping'Dj because this batch also came with a couple of odd Dj axels, with one slightly twisted 'ruined' (Ohio) ![]() Another table full of parts from the t96 overdrive ![]() The overdrive has been taken apart, inspected, and cleaned AND I practiced (quite a few times) sliding the internals back together, sans needle bearings and the two speedometer gears just to get the practice. It's tricky let me tell you and takes two people and I wanted to get good at it because the trans part needs to be built first because of the 'little' needle bearings and the 'shifter thingies' Next..... slipping the overdrive back apart, laying aside, and replacing the cluster gear and the first reverse sliding gear on the t96 part...and just for good measure.... the synchronizer rings. Judging from what I've learned me-thinks maybe them penn boys. ( I think that's where it's from, I'd have to check, mighta tried that immaculate Henry J it came out of on the track a couple a times before stripping it down, removing everything, and turning it into a full fledged high horse power top rated dragster. Both very slight chipping AND smearing on the sliding gear that still looks fresh after all these years. 'Some' noticeable smearing on the same corresponding gear on the cluster |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Jun 29 2014, 04:10 PM Post #130 |
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Papac
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I still can't for the life of me figure out this puzzle. WHY would that person have had SO MANY DJ parts stored in Ohio all them years, including took apart almost complete engine, axles, springs,wheels,fancy hubcaaps, multiple generators, a few boxes of new parts, three transmission and parts from two other transmissions, and still a ton of old bolts, and stuff. Oh, and a couple of dj axles, one twisted and other rear end parts. Plus some but not a lot of non Dj stuff. Did it used to be a shop??? A shed??? Did he convert some dj's to 4 wheel drives back in the day and lay some of the better stuff aside???? Because it's all real good stuff, that's a fact. Even that spot in that motor that at first appeared to 'maybe' be a crack hasn't resurfaced since honing and applying a bit of acid. I think if it 'was' a crack, it's have showed back up by now. Anyway, it's something that I will always wonder about. Ok, back to the point. Here's a table full of loose transmission parts ![]() And here (these cleaned up and ready for final inspection Next in going to remove the old 'transmission gears from their shaft which is at this time sticking out of the overdrive ![]() Note the smeared teeth of the first reverse sliding gear and the pushed sideways in the front half in that other gear up front. Yep I think that was caused by dumping the clutch. ![]() None of the wear would probably have actually been too bad on careful day to day operations but but but, what if I want to drag race like it myself??? Most Likely Not Oh, I remember who they were, Jeb Four Racing
Couldn't find their web page again. Probably cause they're scart and on the run afraid I'd find something wrong and be mad (just kidding, I wouldn't)and go hunting for him!! Seriously though, he was a nice guy and even throwed in some extra stuff on our trade. SLAPPPPPPPPP Ok, sorry enough ranting. Back to work |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Jun 29 2014, 10:39 PM Post #131 |
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Papac
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If you're not experienced (I'm not) Careful And patience Well, I've got two out of three Don't try replacing this cluster and idler gear at home Not counting the case there are ALREADY 51 pieces involved in re-installing the cluster gear and idler gear shown. Warning, even the washers, one at the front and two at the back have either tangs or indents that have to turn the right way. NO room for mistakes here!!! ![]() As shown here. (#44 on the list is twenty each on the LOOSE needle bearings) ![]() To prepare the cluster gear (that's where almost all the parts are) I made a tool by cutting an extra shaft down to the exact same as the length of the cluster gear plus the three thrust washers so I could put it all together and slide it into the case in one piece Lots and lots of assembly lube, several tries getting the inside spacer and needle bearings just right and here's what I came up with The cluster gear...with bearings, spacer, and washers installed on the cut down shaft ![]() 'Carefully' slid that assembly into place and here's me taking the 'real shaft' and driving it in....pushing out the short shaft at the same time ![]() Ps. Thanks for verifying mine is truly. 6 volts!!! |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Jun 29 2014, 11:12 PM Post #132 |
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Papac
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I believe I have proof positive of why you SHOULDN'T use anything synthetic in a transmission or anything else with brass parts Look here ![]() What else could have caused this type 'corrosion' on oily brass parts. Especially the light corrosion on the middle set and the heavy corrosion on the set on the right Almost feels like embedded metal but it's NOT..... I spent the same amount of time cleaning these parts, maybe more considering I scraped the corrosion on the worst two sets with a razor blade. Actual damage is heavy sharp corrosion leaving behind pitted brass when it's scrapped off ALSO slight gold or brassy tinge on the steel gears and shaft on the trans he worst set came out of. I couldn't get a real good pic of most of that.....but here's an example of the best one that took right Brassy sides of a STEEL idler gear ![]() Luckily the 'pitted' or 'brassey' parts did NOT come out of the overdrive I'm building!!! As long as I have it it'll NEVER see anything synthetic, I promise you!!! Ps. Brassy color easily polishes off of metal parts. |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| PapaC | Jun 30 2014, 02:50 AM Post #133 |
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Papac
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Another nice example of what I believe to be a synthetic oil brass plated steel bearing The one on the left...steel colored The one on the right....brass plated steel ![]() Look at the right side of the brass plated bearing where I hit it only a couple of licks with some 600 grit sandpaper ![]() Brass plating rubbed right off!!! |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| F Bill | Jun 30 2014, 07:14 AM Post #134 |
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Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
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I've never heard that synthetic oils will cause brass erosion, but it is possible...What I have heard is using the incorrect gear lube will result in the oil becoming brass colored at drain time with all the dangers of part damage. Every jeep site seems to have a long discussion about the proper oil in transmissions with brass parts...Here's a 4 pager from the 2A page. http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/correct-...topic19422.html GL-1 is the standard, according to everyone in the know. |
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59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain 60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD 60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it. 60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille 56 tub, from 11826 And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left. All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my DJ with doors.. | |
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| PapaC | Jun 30 2014, 04:46 PM Post #135 |
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Papac
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I've have read all the discussions too. But I've been thinking that brassy color had to come from somewhere and i just assumed that it had to be because of deterioration from the existed brass parts because of the high concentrations of suffer, probably especially in the older formulas. Anyway because of the unknowns these results would probably have to be deemed inconclusive except to stick with the manufacturers recommendations of GL1 just to be on the safe side. Now as for the transmission I'm going through look here what I found today . ![]() The syc. pawl on the top has a tang broken off of it and that one DID come out of this transmission. Maybe them Penn. boys at it again??? Don't know what damage something like that 'might' cause but I'm not going to find out. Finally something that that's bad enough that it justifies tearing into and spending a lot of time to try to fix what 'might' have been a perfectly good transmission!!! |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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