Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the discussion forums section of the website CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived in the Tech Tips section of the website. If you post a tech problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it may be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.
Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.
| You're currently viewing the forums as a guest. This means there are some features you can't use. If you register, you'll be able to post messages and use member-only features such as customizing your profile and sending personal messages. Registration is simple and free. Join the CJ-3B Bulletin Board! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| The DJ carburetor | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 26 2014, 03:46 PM (1,910 Views) | |
| PapaC | Oct 15 2014, 09:30 AM Post #16 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Agreed on all points. As an maybe? better alternative I'm contemplating if I could actually fill the pits with dabs of solder. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 15 2014, 09:44 AM Post #17 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Charles, You are exceptionally innovative. I admire that trait. Yes the soldering technique merits consideration. Here again the soldering itself is adhesion and not true fusion. That said; soldering is a superior type of adhesion process because the parts are bonded with heat. You will have to heat the throttle body to around 800* F depending on specific type of solder. A soft solder would do little or no damage if sucked into the chambers. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| jking | Oct 15 2014, 10:21 AM Post #18 |
|
Member
![]() ![]()
|
I have followed your threads for quite a while - entertaining, informative, and innovative. I too, removed my throttle plate prior to seeing OT's advice against it. Like your's, mine was very heavily pitted and needed replacement. I believe that his caution is based upon the possibility of the screws coming loose and being sucked into the chambers. According to OT, these screws were "staked" to prevent them from coming out. So I followed his instruction with regard to staking them after insertion of the replacement plate. I plan on occasionally checking them to ensure that they remain in place and tight. |
|
1958 CJ3B F134 engine\Dana 25 with Spicer type axles\Dana 44 rear\T90 trans\Dana 18 transfer case. Northest Ohio | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 15 2014, 11:05 AM Post #19 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Quite true John. There exist other reasons for not removing the throttle valve plate. 1) It could possably be re-nstalled upside down. 2) Upon assembly the throttle valve must be perfectly aligned to the throttle bore. If removed, the best way to re-align the throttle plate is by installing the screws with throttle plate in the fully closed position. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 15 2014, 11:14 AM Post #20 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
To OLDTIME. Very careful soldering it will be. I'll document my efforts and results here. To Jking Thanks for the compliment. In my case necessity is the mother of invention. Otherwise I'd have over 20 grand in a jeep worth MUCH less when finished. I think I'v read the thread about staking the screws because I knew the terminology. I pinched the split together before removing. I'll heat and fast cool the tiny brass screws to soften them before reinstalling them and re-staking. Thinking a tiny amount of red locktite couldn't hurt either. And last, I will do my BEST to realign the throttle plate correctly, I promise you that. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 16 2014, 08:10 PM Post #21 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Well, it can be done, not easily though, the leading that is. Also I had to get creative to even make it stick. The pitted areas were to numerous to target each individually. So I slathered a coating of 50 50 lead solder over the entire inside bore. I could not manage to do a thin coat so it's going to take a bit of sanding to get back down to the original bore. Luckily the tin-lead mix of solder is much softer than the cast of the bore itself so I don't anticipate a problem removing the excess. Also the orfices will have to be cleaned out too. I'v already got some ideas, and don't anticipate that being a problem either. Here's what it looks like now. This flange shown hasn't been fully repaired yet so the pitting still on it gives a good indication of what the inside bore looked like before I started. ![]() Make no mistake, everything you see inside that bore is lead coated. Not a even coat but that won't matter, most of it is going to get sanded out anyway. At this point it's only been rasped down a fraction. We'll see what it looks like after I get it slicked up some more. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 16 2014, 08:20 PM Post #22 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Charles the effort alone is extremely impressive. I think I would have pulled any aluminum plugs. Then I would clean it in Muriatic acid before soldering. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 16 2014, 08:39 PM Post #23 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Thanks. I did both of those, pulled the plugs and a quick acid bath. Before the acid bath I cooked at high temp to remove any oils. I couldn't make acid core solder stick so I wound up making my own tinning flux. Using muratic acid and zinc, harvested from pennies. Then I added a bunch of lead filings to my mix. By using a combination of my tinning fluid mixture, a lot of it, and then the acid core, things began to start working and my molten solder began to stick....instead of just rolling off. Once it started sticking I started working my way around from the inside middle and then outwards on both sides until I had it all covered. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 20 2014, 02:42 AM Post #24 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Busy and frustrating week. I expect this ones gonna be rough too. I did finish doing what I could to the base. Here's a pic. ![]() Despite appearances that's slicker than a peeled onion and the leading was eventually a success. All orfices have been cleaned. ( tooth pick worked better than expected. However I do believe that air slot was rusted to the point that it's wider than it should be. At least it seems to be a larger opening compared to the two other base I have. And that led me to a discovery that I don't know the answer too. The yf2393sa carburetor that I had rebuilt and plated has a base with the casting number of 1-648 The yf2392s carburetor core that I bought and am working on has a base with the same casting number 1-648 That's two but then.... There's a 2392sa advertised as ROS on eBay that one of the pictures there absolutely show it has a base with the casting number of 1-630??? One of the reasons I'm asking is the 832sb station wagon carburetor that I have has a casting number of 1-630. Excellent shape compared to the 648 base I'm working on but???? |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 20 2014, 06:56 PM Post #25 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Charles the1-630 body flange (base) fits the YF 938 series. 1-630 is not correct for your YF 2392 series. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 20 2014, 10:09 PM Post #26 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Awsome. What 'limited' research I was able to accomplish came to a conclusion that indicted that 1-630 was wrong but I still couldn't be absolutely sure until your verification. Another thing I notice with parts in hand is the 1-630 has a very slightly larger bore size and a different shape on the tip of the adjusting needle than the 1-648 base. Finally note its not something I would not even have considered if not for the ebay listing and these images on ebay advertised as 'ROS' rebuilt old stock. ![]() ![]() http://m.ebay.com/itm/400791735154 Showing a 'decades ago' rebuilt 2393sa with a wrong 1-630 base Even with what appears to be a slightly enlarged idle air bleed port or slot I will now continue to refurbish the carb using the 1-648 base that came with it. At the very least I have parts in hand and it'll be good practice and learning experience. |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 21 2014, 10:03 AM Post #27 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
On several threads throughout the web and awhile back in a email BA indicates that Carter Carburetor YF 738, YF 738S or YF 738sa is also listed by part number in the early DJ3A parts books as also being used and acceptable on DJ3A'S I want to make note on this thread that....out of curiosity and due to communications with another ebay member who has one for sale.....this morning I received notice that his CARTER YF 738S also has a throttle base with the casting number of 648. Posted just for reference, no idea if it would be internally the same as the 1-648 that seem to be used on the YF 2392 series. charles |
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 21 2014, 06:22 PM Post #28 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
The actual part number for the YF 938 body flange assembly is not 1-630 The actual part number for the YF 738 / 2392 body flange assembly is not 1-648. Technically those are just the casting numbers. The casting numbers are the only easy way to identify those specific assemblies. The only other way to identify a particular throttle body is via precision measurments taken of the throttle bore and it's metering orfices. |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| PapaC | Oct 25 2014, 01:23 AM Post #29 |
|
Papac
![]() ![]()
|
Little time to do actual work on the jeep itself or this side project on the carb but I finally got the base back together. Everything's tight and now looks good but I still have the problem of knowing the air bleed slot is a little bit out of spec due to the previous rust issues. ![]() That throttle plate 'should' be numbered 2 133. Mine was eat up with rust so I had to resize the donar 2 134 plate that came out of the station wagon carb previously mentioned. As you can see with very careful filing and polishing I came up with a pretty good fit ![]() Screws re-used and re-staked (probably not a good idea but they're what I had) ![]() I'm with oldtime on 'do not remove these' because it'd be real easy to get that put back together wrong OR twist off a screw and ruin the shaft which is what I did on the donar carb!!! Luckily with this 1 648 back together I won't be in need of that particular shaft anymore.
|
|
Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
![]() |
|
| oldtime | Oct 25 2014, 09:18 AM Post #30 |
![]()
MODERATOR
![]() ![]()
|
Charles your applying great effort in your attempt to do the required repairs. I sure hope your effort pays off. I do think think it may suffice. As to the idle air bleed; the only way to know if its correct is to obtain the factory specifications. The factory specifications are only provided in the CARTER MASTER PART CATALOG. IF you could locate that book it would fetch about $750 US dollars. The only other way is to get precision measurements taken from a KNOWN good carburetor. You need to determoine the bleed slot length, the width and the needle orfice bore. Good luck on that ! |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
![]() |
|
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts · Next Topic » |



![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)













3:53 AM Jul 11