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DJ3A DISPATCHER COLUMN SHIFT REPAIR ; Also early CJ2A
Topic Started: Sep 1 2014, 10:03 PM (4,404 Views)
ba25
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shift rod anti rattle springs #27 on chart
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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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ba25
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control levers #6 and anti rattle springs #none

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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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ba25
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Posted Image
BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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ba25
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Felt seal between two washers
bottom of shaft above lubricating housing
between #2 & #26
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rubber insert w-steel center tube for attaching shift rod to shift lever
between 23/24 & 31
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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
THANK YOU!!!

Ps. WhAAAA HOOOOOO
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
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I removed the c clip

Took out the old worn out bearing

Grabbed a couple of ball peen hammers one with a big ball and a smaller one to tap it with

Just a touch of heat from a torch on the flat side (not too much just enough to barely make it change colors

Tapped it a couple of times

Less than ten minutes making this about the easiest repair yet on the whole jeep.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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ba25
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Couple pics of Bill Brown repairs made to his shift shaft adding sleeve over shaft. made his shifter much tighter.

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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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PapaC
Papac
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Red hot bar stock soon to be sweged on one end to increase the diameter enough on that end to hammer out the square, bulge the center so it'll stick tight in the hole and heat treat to increase hardness.

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Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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Test fitting and filing my piece.


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Note. Once the upper parts are on and this square, round, pin is correctly made, tested, and in place it should be lightly TAC WELDED from the inside the tube at the bottom

EDIT. I also added a slight amount of temper to my pin by heating and quenching in oil.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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So rigggghhhhtttt about the time I think I'm getting somewhere something else catches my eye.


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That'll truly bad repair just doesn't do it for me.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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Ok. Melted the old brass out and took apart.

I'm really hoping this is forged steel and not cast steel. There's those that can touch it to a grinding wheel and tell from the spark but not me.

I'll try HEATING first and touch it with a welder then I'll know.


If steel I'll heat, weld, and let cool s l o w l y.


If iron, I'll heat the whole thing red hot and braze and let cool s l o w l y


Edit. It's cast.....
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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div4gold
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PapaC,Sep 5 2014
01:51 PM
Ok. Melted the old brass out and took apart.

I'm really hoping this is forged steel and not cast steel. There's those that can touch it to a grinding wheel and tell from the spark but not me.

I'll try HEATING first and touch it with a welder then I'll know.


If steel I'll heat, weld, and let cool s l o w l y.


If iron, I'll heat the whole thing red hot and braze and let cool s l o w l y


Edit. It's cast.....

Can you weld cast with a nickel rod?
Old retired fart living in Ione, WA. I have a 1964 CJ3B. Recently overhauled original motor, transmission and overdrive. 11" Bronco drum brakes on all 4. Needs a new coat of paint but that will have to wait till next summer, it's next summer and I'm working on that now :) UPS & FEDEX will continue to profit :)
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PapaC
Papac
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If I had some I have and am pretty confident I still good. But I have had pretty good luck at brazing cast iron too, which is what I did. Not without some additional problems I had to overcome though.

The small threaded piece had a hairline crack and that's something there really isn't any coming back from. It's just too small to mess around with much.

So I dug around and found a insided threaded 'steel' piece that's designed to hook larger electrical wires together and that had the thread count and size I needed. Problem was there's holes in the sides to stick wires through and run short bolts against. I decided to ignore these extra holes for now.

First I made a jig to hold my pieces together correctly.


Good side

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Bad side

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Then I heated the whole thing, all of it, Almost RED HOT.

The bonus here is my piece comes up farther against the arm which should help me get a better connection. Even if I could have used the smaller piece the way they had it ground it would have left a huge gap to fill in anyway.

After getting it RED HOT I FILLED one side with brass and built up a shoulder.

Then I turned it over and filled and built up the other side, and even closing up the extra holes.

After that I packed it deep in blasting sand (kitty litter would have been better) and let it cool a hour or so.


Once cool enough to handle I took the end cap off and cut out the pipe. After that I cut into my braze some on the inside (where the pipe was), and heated about red hot again so I could fill in the inside with brass.

Right now it's packed in sand cooling until I can get back to it.

Tomorrow I'll dig it up and grind and file to shape.

I'll also have to do a bit of drilling and re-tap the bolt threads.

Hopefully bright, shiny, and good to go, especially since that's actually......probably........ near about........ a flat out unobtaineum type of piece!!!

In the meantime here's my soon to be shift lever anti-rattle spring!

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Its a stainless steel spring I heated and straightened out.

I understand others have used piano wire but I kind of like stainless here

I figured a stainless spring could take more heat while straightening and forming, and if I'm not mistaken I 'think' tempered stainless self hardens as it cools, without quenching.

I'll make two, one of which I'll try to bend or break to see how it holds up....and see if it tries to retain its new shape.

I haven't found suitable spring steel to make the shift linkage anti rattle clips, yet, but I'm thinking and looking for something suitable as I have time.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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BEFORE

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GETTING STARTED

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NOW

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I'v still got to clean and re thread the steel core underneath all of that brass. Also I'm keeping the extra length on the repaired side because I wanted to beef it up some.

Note: had I not heated this repaired cast iron piece really hot and then allowed to cool very very very slowly it would have been extremely prone to cracking, perhaps even before it was used.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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I did get the hole reamed out and re tapped. I think I'm going to work just a little bit more sculpting out the correct shape and primer and paint it and call it good.

The steering tube and shifter shaft have been primed sanded and are ready for paint. I used lead soldier to fill most of the pits.

Earlier today I figured out I could cut the un-slotted parts of some stainless steel hose clamps and make my lower anti rattle clips out of them.

It's taking longer than expected, but soon I'll have it all laid out and ready to assemble.

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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