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DJ3A DISPATCHER COLUMN SHIFT REPAIR ; Also early CJ2A
Topic Started: Sep 1 2014, 10:03 PM (4,402 Views)
SteveK
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Quote:
 
Posted: Sep 4 2014, 08:39 AM
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control levers #6 and anti rattle springs #none

user posted image


My shifter looks like the top model in Bruce's pic referenced above earlier in this thread...so for my 'anti-rattle device' I just cut a 1/2" piece of 1/4" rubber hose and slipped it on the shaft end with barely any point showing. The hose piece collapses a little when installed and offers non-metallic pressure on the two pieces to prevent rattle without interfering with the operation. Simple, quick, cheap, readily available, and won't rust...but NOT authentic for restorations...
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Almost ready to lay out for final fitting and assembly.

Posted Image


Everything shown here either completely reconditioned or home made out of what I could find laying around....right down to the shoe leather I cut and treated with beeswax to replace the felt seal I don't have!! :)

Ps. Those hose clamp stainless steel pieces I cut, bent, and drilled for the lower anti rattle clips was hard to work with, especially drilling the holes. Primitive tests I did to it tells me though it still retains plenty of spring action.

If God forbid anyone else makes them out of this material it takes a fine dremil cutting wheel to cut the pieces. When bending the u shape don't make a sharp crease, that WILL over stress the stainless and possible cause it to crack or break.

I bent mine over a old file, anything that thin will do so as to get a rounded curve at the bend.

A carbide bit is the best for drilling the holes.

I bent these cold, never heated at all.

My test was taking an extra one and opening the bend a inch wide, and then squeezing completely back together. Just back away from the bend of course.

Exactly one hundred cycles of doing this and I could detect no breakage, or loss of tensile strength in my little home made spring anti rattle clips.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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Using the above advice, photos, and methods I now have this.

Posted Image

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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I'm not sure if I'm more of a stickler in knowing details or in duplicating them. Regardless I find this quite interesting.

Posted Image

First thought is as always I can't help wondering who or when and how long ago this tag was put on this dj3a column shifter linkage. Along with wondering where exactly it had been stored over the years waiting to come to my attention or how it got there.


Look at the anti rattle clip. Now the stainless ones I previously made are similar and will work great but...

Posted Image

See the difference between this one and the previously posted pictures???

I just don't see that they would have accidentally made that extra hump where it's drilled on the pin side unless this truly is an original DJ3A shifter linkage anti-rattle clip, or spring as it may be called.

Believe me I asked.......and the other linkage arm or other DJ parts was nowhere to be found. :(
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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One thing that I didn't point out at the time of this rebuild is that this factory image of the shift rods connection to the column shift arms is wrong.....apparently for both a CJ2A and for DJ3A's.

Posted Image[/URL

I hesitated back then posting the correction information because I didn't have further confirmation at the time.....and since my anti-rattle clips were missing completely I had no way to be 100% sure.

First problem was my shift rods wouldn't fit that way without re-bending them to get them out of a bind. (I didn't even try that one)

Second was the dj shift rods that came with the Ohio lot were bent the exact same way as mine


Third was when I managed to get my hands on the nos rod and the factory anti-rattle clip. It was only then that i noticed it had a divit pressed in the clips that matched the divots drilled on the shift levers thrmselves.....meaning they would only clip on and hold the rods one way and one way only.

Fourth was the RUSTY 63 Texas DJ3A which did still have original shift rods, pins, and clips was NOT attached like the drawing. They were configured like I thought the rods should be, divots matched up, and.....it all began to make sense




No matter though, if you have or can find original shift lever anti rattle clips OR if you're having to make them take a large center punch and after drilling the hole but before bending it almost double and knock in that divit.

Then it becomes obvious that they can only go together ONE WAY and that ONE WAY that I have knowledge of is not like that willys drawing!!!

Charles
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
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Charles, On the arms of the column, where are your bevels located? Mine are on the outside edges. Given your logic of the spring clip protrudes into them, how is the upper link pictured doing that unless that bevel is on the inside? Can the long arm be turned over, or possibly the clip go on the face side and the cotter pin (and a washer?) on the back side to make the clip fit into the bevel? That would still give 'anti-rattle' and keep the linkage in line as shown. I can see maybe the drawing could be wrong, but doubtful the bevels are misplaced. NOTHING is 'always' with these Dj's tho. Do you have pics of the Texas Dj 'as found' you can share?

EDIT: OK, I zoomed in on the pic above and see washers before the cotter pins, but couldn't tell where the bevels are. The top clip does looked squashed and not fit flat like the other. I also went back to my 'as found' documentation pics and see the lower linkage as pictured, but my upper (long) linkage is indeed mounted from the 'inside' with the spring clip on the top (rear) placing the clip into the bevel (on mine any way). No washers. Sorry I can't post pics. So, the questions continue...
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
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Posted Image




Quote:
 
STEVEK:  went back to my 'as found' documentation pics and see the lower linkage as pictured, but my upper (long) linkage is indeed mounted from the 'inside' with the spring clip on the top (rear) placing the clip into the bevel (on mine any way). No washers. Sorry I can't post pics. So, the questions continue...



Sorry for the delay. I just today changed out the worm gear in my steering box and got it all back on the DJ and hooked back up.

Your description (and the pics you sent) accurately describes the way the rods go on both of my DJ's supporting my original dilemma and theory when that I didn't know any better that the factory pic is wrong.


Here's the pic you sent and that's how both of my DJ's have the rods attached.

Posted Image







Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
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Recently I was asked a few questions concerning this thread and the research I did here. I'm going to add some information that was inadvertily left out.

1. Other column shifters such as early Cj2A column shifts, Willys pickups column shifters, and any other Wilys column shifters will not directly interchange with our DJ3A's column shift. Even though they all rebuild the same the big difference is the way that the arms that the linkage rods from the transmission pin to are bent differently.

2. Another question I reciently was asked about concerned that round square pin as pictured above in this thread. Those pins are tacked in place by welding through the tube itself. This was done at the factory. To remove a old one these tac welds need to be cut out with a drill bit enough to remove from the shaft. After replacing that pin....or re-using the old one if it is in good enough shape it needs to be rewelded through the center of the tube to secure it from ever twisting or moving around when replaced.

3. Lastly be sure to install the horn wire before putting the rebuilt assembly back on the jeep. Way back then I didn't and then realized later it was a huge pain to thread in that horn wire through the column by myself.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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