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1956 DJ Wiring Adventure
Topic Started: Dec 4 2014, 05:04 PM (1,646 Views)
PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I decided rewiring my DJ out in the shop and on the frame wasn't going to happen.

Should be simple, or at least doable right? Wiring diagrams are pretty easy to find. One wire at a time, put some ends on them, and connect them up.

Or better yet, buy a premade wiring harness.

But what if you wanted to know what original was including ends, sockets, bullet connector sockets both single, two way and three way as shown on the wiring diagrams.

The entirely unique ring connectors, some of which are for double wire.

Wire coloring and lengths, and guage.

You'd want to know about the right speedometer, key switch, and light switch, along with headlights, parking lights, and tail lights.

Let's make things more difficult and throw in a overdrive and trailer wiring.

This turns your wiring project into a research nightmare, not to mention salvaging and reusing old ends. To make it even more difficult not only were these ends crimped to the wires.....TIGHT....in 56 they also used a bit of solder.

And for sure, try taking them little bitty ends off off of the dash sockets, get the wire out out of them, a small punch to round out the crimp, clean up with a drill bit, and reuse with new wire.


Here's a whole slew of wires I'v collected the past year including a almost near complete DJ under dash wiring harness (under my notes mostly) still connected to the gauges and switches. Until a few days ago it was still connected to the dash panel which had been cut out for me from a gentleman who was scrapping (melting down) an old rusted out DJ body.


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The data tag identified the whole shebang as being authentic 1956 DJ which as mine is also a 56 proves perfect for my needs. (My jeep only had enough wires to crank the motor, everything else was stripped.



Note the unusual pattern on the back of the key switch. Not one post in the middle and three surrounding it??? A spring to hold it tight to the dash behind the bezel and the dash?? Inscribing on the bezel that says ignition. Unlike other WILLYS key switches I see yet the original key blanks I got from Oldtime a loooong time ago slides in perfectly so later we'll have to investigate what's up with that.

Mixed in is bits and pieces of other wiring harnesses, assorted parts and other switches I'v collected, dyed wires, and just plain junk.

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I'll updare and try to correct the notes as I go. Salvaging those ends is slooooow and delicate.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
And here's another thing. My service manual doesnt have the early wiring diagram for the King Sealey Speedo with the external voltage regulator.

So I turn once again to WillysSurreyGala.Com which DOES have the correct diagrams. Now with this phone that'll about make you go blind......but AT LEAST it's there.

So I made another preliminary drawing trying to spread the wires out at the same time.

This is after about 10 attempts or so because of having to start over due to mistakes.

For now I'll verify and finish the key switch drawing using that odd key switch I have. If I decide it's completely wrong I'll use Steves old switch and that'd be just a matter of swapping a few wires around to get back on track.

Also noticed my light switch doesn't match the diagram. The posts on it are configured more like a early 3B jeep than the one shown for the DJ.

Drawing still under construction same as the other one. Corrections to be made and has to be redrawn in such a way that much more information can be added.



EDIT: see drawing later in thread

Still missing my ages ago computer and the 'imageforge' program I had on it. Not a professional drafting program but I had got to where I could do a lot better with it than pen and paper!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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F Bill
Jeep discovery and aquisition specialist
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Three suggestions for your diagram:

Larger , like posterboard size. You can always reduce it with a camera or copier.

More colorful, use colored pens or sharpies for the wire colors as close as you can get to what you'll eventually use. Dashed lines for wires with trace color...

Draw it out in pencil using straightedges and curve templates and it will look like a real factory diagram.

Great work so far!
59 convertible 15933 needs drivetrain
60 convertible 17052 has a V6 and 4WD
60 Surrey 17509 went thru Katrina and looks it.
60 Surrey 17918 started it all...Toyota axle, BW
Wrecked Surrey Tub with fenders and grille
56 tub, from 11826
And a couple parts DJ's with no ID left.
All my jeeps are projects....only runner is my
DJ with doors..
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ba25
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Carl Walcks New dj3a Wiring diagram

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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Thanks guys, poster board, pencils, assorted sharpies, definitely now on my list.



As are assorted sizes of the correct wiring loan covers.

That big image showing WALLACKS colors will help too.

When my phone crashed last week I managed to recover most of my photos except for about the last weeks worth which had the images of the non sticky tape and where the dash loam routed out of that. That tape was tied on the ends and a some type of cloth tape underneath only at the stress points where other wires split off. I KNEW I should have parked them here but I still think I can duplicate.

Now, help me take a look at this key switch that came straight out of that old 56 dash.

Anybody ever seen one like this or was it replaced at some point???

Notice the Briggs key blank fits it perfectly.


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The plastic red fused wire obviously non original, the purple one is one I made. Everything else looks pretty old.

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Comments and speculation welcome.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
And here's the old light switch with the slightly different post configuration.


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See that one with the double wire end? There's several like that on my old harness. Crimped tight and soldered. (So far I'v managed to get two of them apart so it can be done)

Especially if a person was completely INSANE!!! :)
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Here's an example to of a finished piece.

Two instrument cluster lights.

#3's on the cluster.......to light switch

Both wires 22.5 inches long and two of the few wires I'v been unable to verify color.

By process of elimination I went with purple

Before

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One socket fitted, one still needs stripped and that little bitty nub that touches the light bulb removed, cleaned, drilled out some, wire.....heck lets just say those are a real pain!!!


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Both sockets fitted....

Double end softened, cleaned, re-tinned, wires attached, and just a touch of solder etc.




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Military grade shrink wrap covering and...

Tagged, Documented, Completed

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Ps. Don't forget to take a look at that key switch

Thanks
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Hey Bruce, good to see you're well and back to the site with great details.

PapaC, if you need the factory style rubber double connector covers (I know mine were crisp and cracked when pulled on) and bullet ends, I saw some recently on the internet looking for something else but unfortunately didn't think about you maybe needing them, and didn't copy the location. Sorry. If I see them again, I'll forward the info, but at least we know they are out there... Unbelievable the detail you are, and are able to, going to with your restoration. KUDOS!
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Found it. It was Walck's. Singles, doubles and triples too...worth a peruse to see the ignition switches, light switches, light sockets and other parts too.
http://walcks4wd.com/electrical.html?cat=80&p=4
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I'd saw the ones at Walcks with the spring but that's not it.

That one also looks like some of the Scout ones I'd see on ebay but they are still different.

Different contours on the bezel and the posts in the back are completely different. Mine are actually screw threads sticking out for wires with ring connectors and nuts to fasten.

I collected plastic connectors a long time ago, singles, doubles and triples so I think I have enough but Thanks.

Making some progress today and soon it'll get easier. I'm starting to untangle in my head what's what and only one more socket to wire.

The bezel cups in towards where the key goes in as if to guide it a mite.

Age and screw rus on the switch evenly matched with the screws etc on the light switch.

Haven't studied it enough yet so see if there's markings on it anywhere,
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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ba25
Member Avatar
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Hey Steve,
hope your jeep is coming along.

on your switch PC
as shown in this service bulletin
SB 497 New Ignition Starter Switch and Lock Cylinder Nov 15 1960
the early dj switch which you have in hand was replaced at serial number 56337-19532

shown below......NOS DJ ign switch...early
pic coutesy Emil Bruce-Sweden
Posted Image
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BA Agan

46 Bantam T3-C 2953
46 Bantam T3-C 19638 "Big Red"
49 CJ-2A 222564
51 M38 MC 28115
52 M100 285896
62 CJ5 57548-148683
64 DJ3A 8204-24210
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Wow!! Another piece of the puzzle solved.

I'm not sure that anyone other than DJ or Willys nut could imagine the feeling.

On my to do list.

Find a NOS one like the shiny one in Mr. Emil Bruce's picture from Sweeden (odds probably highly unlikely)

Or spiff mine up inside and out and find me a old (no disrespect intended) locksmith who can cut those key blanks to fit without having a pattern to go by. (Probabal maybe???)

OR learn how to become a professional thief (not the crowbar type) and learn how to cut the pattern on the keys myself ('fairly unlikely but not out of the question ) B)

The one thing I do know is there is a solution to this minor problem somewhere.

I just have to fine the 'key' :) to unlocking it!!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Now noticinging mistakes in my preliminary drawings as I'm working on the actual wires themselves, one at a time. By now pages of scribbled notes and corrections just on the cluster wiring itself.

I'v got to go back and find Mr. ..... Name and address and just let him know how much I appreciate him sending me the whole dash instead of just the wires themselves and that's a fact. Without that to compare to wiring diagrams that I can't hardly see my ship would have sunk.

I think I'm going to have to re-dye the number three cluster light wires because now I suspect they should be brown.

Bill I now have markers, and some kind of poster boards my wife got for me. When I get a chance I'll try to make up some real drawings.

I'v completed the cluster guage wiring except for that one section which I may re-dye and the double wire from the cluster reg to the key switch 'ign'.
and to the coil.

Next up, the rest of the ignition switch wiring. Boy I'm glad those sockets are out of the way!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
This set of wires came from a gentleman on the 3A forum.

Proving to be invaluable in comparing colors and I needed some extra ends.

Posted Image

The incomplete set also came with an almost identical light switch as mine but in much better condition, with the only difference the circuit breaker comes out in a L Shape where mine came out straight. It's the one I'll clean up and actually use.

There's quite a few other electrical goodies that came with it some of which I can use and a few that don't apply to my needs.

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I've cut a few keys to fit a lock. Having a rental house required a lot of key changes. Around here they want $65-75 each for a new key combo made.

From a complete blank stock it is a little more timely. If you have a key that fits in, take the tumbler section out careful to keep the little cylinder/barrells in place. With the key in place, the cylinder end will be exposed showing the depth needed to be cut out of the key stock. Mark a pattern, I use tape, and mark also a matching starting point for the tape to the key, and apply tape to stock outside the tumbler.

I use a Dremmel cutoff disk and make the cut at each mark, then ramp the edges. Buff with a wire disk the rough edges for a smooth glide. Try it out in the tumbler assembly and when all cylinders are flush with the top surface, the key will turn the cylinder inner piece. If close enough to almost turn, you can trim off a cylinder top to flush rather than cutting the key stock more.

If you have an existing key, just insert it and match the cylinders to it, either by trimming, or mix and matching cylinders from all your other sets...after careful alignment combinations kept sorted (I use tape to keep them from rolling out of position, and on a controlled surface to prevent rolloff escapes of the little suckers). Note:Some locks use two cylinders in each tube, some only one longer one.

With a little patience, it is pretty easy. I have used the above to make 'keyed alike' locks for the same key pattern. Sometimes, even other key locks use the same type of cylinders to broaden your supply and options. I keep them in a container for future reference. Hope this helps.
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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