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| Bolts on dj3a?; Correct marked bolts for dj3a | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 14 2015, 12:54 AM (580 Views) | |
| dcwheels | Jun 14 2015, 12:54 AM Post #1 |
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I have been restoring my cj2a for the past 8 months and while searching looking out for the correct marked bolts for the cj2a,got a doubt clicking my mind about the same for the dj. Did the dj s come with specific factory marked bolts like the cj2a ? The dj is my next project and would fall back on the expert forum for all guidance and help. Thanks and regards. dc |
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| PapaC | Jun 15 2015, 07:00 PM Post #2 |
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Papac
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That's a hard question. They're certainly not F marked or anything special like that. To date I'v been able to pretty much clean up and re-use either my old original bolts or use matching as much as I could with the help of a box full of old bolts that came with some other parts I bought. Another member sent me some specific bolts I needed for the oil filter bracket. There is some specific star washers I ordered from eBay and some bolts I just guessed at. I myself still have to come up with new body and fender bolts so I can't be a lot of help there yet. Mine is of course a 1956 I'm working on and I don't know if they're all the same or not. For example I'v got 4 t96 transmissions, 3 with years unknown. Some of them had Philips head screw type bolts in the top cover, and some of them had hex head bolts. Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| oldtime | Jun 16 2015, 09:19 AM Post #3 |
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I fully expect that Jeep mainly sourced bolts local to the Toledo area. The specific bolts used on a jeep were mainly dependent upon vintage. CJ-2A used a lot of "A" stamped bolts for certain applications. Those "A" stamped bolts were already out of use by the early 1950's. For best results I suggest you specify an exact vintage and application. Others with original bolts examples for your particular vintage and application can then better assist you. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| dcwheels | Jun 16 2015, 10:21 AM Post #4 |
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My doubt was regarding the use of specific marked bolts like the ones used in for ex.cj2a;the A/E/EC bolts on the fender,bonnet hinge and other parts like the brake cylinder inspection cover with CTR or TR bolts. I am not sure whether this continued until 1965 ,end of production of the dj3a;thus the query. It makes life much easier if this specificity doesnot exist. Thanks |
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| oldtime | Jun 16 2015, 10:38 AM Post #5 |
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Well it's certainly not mandatory that one use original bolts. Technically any manufacturer of correct bolt specifications is acceptable. Correct bolt specifications include the Diameter / Thread Pitch / Grade and a few other special requirements for select applications. In some instances the exact specifications are not very important. Example: Exhaust systems will call for NF thread but NC threads may also suffice. In some cases it may be considered more practical to use a soft grade bolt on exhaust bolts that are exposed to high heat or even the body tub mounting bolts. Those bolts typically rust badly over time and are much easier to remove by breaking the bolt shank if a soft grade was used. I much prefer to see re-use of original bolts on restored jeeps. Using correct bolts is not near so important on the typical build of a daily driver. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new | |
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| PapaC | Jun 16 2015, 07:45 PM Post #6 |
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Papac
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Thanks Ken. I almost felt like I was getting in over my head here, especially for such a broad question. If needed I could supply any pictures of original bolt heads or washers (1956) just about anywhere on my DJ, except for body bolts and nuts. Per advice given in this thread I cleaned up and reused every single bolt possible. Here's this.....a question that recently came up through a private email. The particular question involved stuck and rusted lug nuts. This was my answer My thoughts on removing stuck bolts and or nuts after letting soak for a while in penetrating oil. Wire brush threads that you can see. Heating the nuts red hot with a real torch gives the best results. A propane torch isn't as effective but better than not at all. Sometimes I even cycle this. Heat and let cool, heat and let cool and then reheat before even trying. I 'feel' like I've saved a lot of nuts and bolts using this method. For stubborn ones first try to 'slightly' tighten. Sometimes this will help jar then loose. Be careful. Smaller bolts you have to be especially careful when they're stuck. Trying to turn them while too hot might automatically cause them to twist. Those better to go through a couple of heat and cool cycles and then try to nudge them loose when cool. Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| dcwheels | Jun 16 2015, 11:00 PM Post #7 |
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Great info Charles. Did the same for my cj2a after initially losing out on a couple of bolts. Heating with a torch would be the last thing to try I suppose,as it alters physical properties of the metal making them practically useless in stress bearing parts,but could be used in cosmetic locations. |
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| PapaC | Jun 17 2015, 12:34 AM Post #8 |
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Papac
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Agreed, noted, excellent point and I should have clarified further. Guess I was thinking too much about those lug nuts and other impossible situations. He's already tried before using both heat and leverage. I've also had to free up a lot of bolts that go into cast. If I thought I was going to have trouble with those instead of heating the bolts themselves instead of using a torch I would use a heat gun and keep it moving over a large area. Concentrated heat can bust a motor (cast) so heating over a large area around the bolt is better and safer. The absolute hardest ones for me to free up on the whole jeep were the little square oil plugs on the motor underneath the manifolds. One of those has the tiny hole for the carburetor return spring and they did not want to turn...and I didn't want to break either one of them. I was using a 1/4 inch square nut socket and they just wouldn't budge. I also knew not to get too rough with them. I had to hand file them a tiny bit in order to use that socket. Every day for at least a week I'd heat the area around them with that heat gun until it got really hot to the touch. During that time they would not budge. And then one day, (I've got plenty of patience) I heated that area up, tried the socket (always using a small 1/4 in ratchet so as to keep leverage at a minimum, And finally they began to turn and I removed them without damaging anything. Head bolts, as most of the other bolts and nuts on the motor I was lucky and loosened with no problem. (Some people say never reuse those studs and bolts but for better or worse I'm not one of that crowd) Manifold bolts I did twist one of those studs in two, and replaced that stud and all of the nuts I ruined (heat and rust) the axle u-bolt nuts on the back but saved the u-bolts I also ruined the nuts on the bolts that hold the front axle but saved the bolts Most of my body bolts were shot, except the bolts that hold the front fenders to the tub, so I removed those any way possible Each nut and bolt I did re-use was cleaned and throughly inspected before re-use Most, but not all that were not satisfactory I was lucky enough to find a better matching one it that extra box of nuts and bolts that came with the other DJ parts. Unofficially bolts on my DJ include transmission mount bolts and transmission cross member bolts, and motor mount bolts. Those I was unable to save or duplicate. P.S. at some point I'm still wanting to replace the wide nuts on the u-bolts on the back axle and the eight wide nuts on the bolts that hold the front axle. Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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| dcwheels | Jun 17 2015, 07:22 AM Post #9 |
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Great knowledge and info shared Charles. Those bolts really need a lot of patience to be removed undamaged. As pointed right by you the Manifold bolts are the easiest to be broken and I have some work on hand to remove one from my go devil on the 2a. Remember having read somewhere about the counterclockwise drill to be used for the procedure. |
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| PapaC | Jun 17 2015, 11:19 AM Post #10 |
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Papac
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I've heard that too about those bits but haven't ever owned a set of them. Once I removed my manifolds there was a tiny bit of the broken one still sticking out from the engine. I found a nut that I could slip over that nub and and then mig welded it through the center of the nut. Then I let that cool off, tried it with a socket and I was lucky and it screwed right out. Charles |
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Charles Tate....North Mississippi 1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts. 1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only) | |
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