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Carter YF 2392 S vs SA; help to note the differences
Topic Started: Oct 13 2015, 12:55 AM (503 Views)
dcwheels
Member
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Dear Friends,
Searching for a correct carburetor for a 1964 dj3a,I came across 2392 s.
On further search I also noticed a yf 2392 sa.
Not knowing much aboutcarbs only thing i could point out was the number of patents on the bowl...11 vs 12.
Could you all guide what would be right for a 1964 dj3a and what would be the differences ?
thanks .
dc
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PapaC
Papac
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I know by 63 they were using 2392sa, at least that's what was on mine.

The numbers used to bug me too. This quote from oct 29, 2014 mostly answered my question

Quote:
 
Another question that was kinda bugging me was the addition of letters to the end of the number as in 2392S and then 2392 SA. I found this which kind of helps explains the lettering system



Quote:
 
”. Old time: Carter used the suffix letter S to denote assembly. Since all carburetors are composed of multiple parts, the letter S was appended to all carburetors using the traditional numbering system i.e. 938s. If a significant engineering change was made to the carburetor, the letter “A” would be appended to the S (i.e. 938sa). A second change would have the letter A replaced by the letter B (i.,e. 938sb). The highest engineering change of which I am aware is 4 i.e.938sd.


Now I don't know what the engineering change could have been but I assume it's something minor like a very slight change in jetting or calibration between the 2392s and 2392sa.

The specs for the 2392s are here

http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/?page_id=979

But I don't know where to find the factory specs for the sa.

About everything I could learn from these carbs is documented here

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=5753

I seriously doubt that properly tuned there would be any noticeable difference in the performance of a properly rebuilt 2392s or 2392sa. The same kit fits both of them.

Theyre pretty hard to find was my experience. Wallacks had 2 but wouldn't sell without a core which I didn't have at the time.

I do have a extra untouched DJ3A 2392 SA , 1963 vintage if you don't have success looking elsewhere.


Charles

Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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oldtime
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Just a wild guess but the change was likely going from a air bypass check ball to become an air bypass check needle.

If anyone s interested in purchasing I do have an original Carter document for the 2392S carburetor.
It looks like the one here but it's form # 5170
Specifically for Model DJ-3A dated 1956

http://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/Carter/YF3Bp1.gif
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
Rock Crawler using factory parts from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)

http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30228766/1/#new
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dcwheels
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Thanks for the information.
So it is the 2392SA for the 1964 dj3a !
Regards.
Dc
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Tronicsmasta
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PapaC,Oct 13 2015
12:40 PM


I do have a extra untouched DJ3A 2392 SA , 1963 vintage if you don't have success looking elsewhere.


Charles

Any chance you still have this. I'm having a hell of a time rebuilding mine. Some of the parts are just corroded. I cleaned it up very well but I'm having trouble finding the upper pump housing. The inlet check ball and retainer is gone and the opening is corroded to where I had to modify it to even get the ball to stay.. I'd rather find another 2392sa to work with...maybe I can get 2 together to get it working...
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PapaC
Papac
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Yes, I still have it along with a bunch of other extra DJ parts.

If you're interested first I'd like to pop the top off so that we can check for any corrosion, etc. that might cause a problem when putting a rebuild kit in it. Wouldn't want to sell you a piece of junk but I'm pretty confident that it's ok. Better to make sure and I'll be careful. From rebuilding a 2392s previously I know that there's a few places that pits might be an issue so I'd rather check this out really good before pricing.


To send you pictures and a price contact me at charles_tate@yahoo.com

Charles
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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Tronicsmasta
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I actually tried my rebuild for the first time. I still may need your carb. I'll keep you posted. I appriciate that you would want to check it out first. I think I may still purchase it as a spate as they are hard to find.

I got my L134 running today.. at idle seems to hang out around 160f. Carb is working but there is some sputtering at around 1000 rpm then goes away. I am going to check the timing tomorrow before I assume it's related to the carb.. I have to fine tune it also.

I'll post a video shortly!!
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SteveK
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"...Carb is working but there is some sputtering at around 1000 rpm then goes away".

From my experience, you may want to check for an intake leak as well. With Siamesed runners, at low speed it affects the adjacent cylinder more than at higher speeds, or at least it did on mine. I had a crack/hole at the flange, but the gasket seal could be another check point. You can spray the area with water and if it changes the idle, there's a leak.
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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Tronicsmasta
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Oh good call. I haven't rebuilt the engine yet. It's not even drivable yet. I only have pedals but no linkages or anything for it.

Here is my video. This was before I moved the distributor around for timing and before I added more oil after the canister filled back up.

You can hear the ticking very well in this video. It's not as bad now that i moved the distributor, adjusted the low speed idle and added more oil to the proper level. I can still hear it now just not as much.. (clogged oil passage perhaps)?

any thoughts as to what it might be?

https://youtu.be/8Rkc6z0QG68
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