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1956 DJ3A; Resurrection
Topic Started: Apr 20 2016, 10:43 PM (2,560 Views)
PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Did you ever try to wrestle a horn wire through a Willys steering column with it on the jeep? Well if you did I hope you had better luck than I did because it took me HOURS and HOURS to figure it out.

YEP, I'm slow sometimes but I got her done with great difficulty I might add. I quit on it yesterday, came back with a new plan, and about a hour later it slipped right through with ease!


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By the way, that's not a reproduction wire. It's a real perfect condition horn wire out of a CJ2A. After rebuilding my steering column once and filling some pits in the worm gear I decided that wasn't acceptable. So later on over on the CJ2A site a person had a absolutely perfection condition shaft, worm gear, and horn wire still in it for sale and I rebuilt mine again with the better shaft.

I did have to shorten the shaft (I'll have to check the measurement for sure) but maybe 5/8 0r 3/4 of a inch give or take because a CJ2A steering shaft and worm gear is a bit shorter that a DJ3A Dispatcher steering shaft and worm gear.

Whew, success!!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
I've been using way to heavy duty military grade shrink wrap on these wires (eBay previous purchase) but I expect it to outlast all of us.

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Even with this few wires I keep checking, double checking, and triple checking each wire against both my chart and the book to make sure.

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Mocking up the key switch, a cluster, and light switch wiring in the now covered and padded floor of my jeep. Some of them I hadn't previously labeled and some of them still need shrink wrap.


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Still to do is the turn signal switch, finishing the overdrive wiring including a nos fused 6v relay (which I have) and eventually the Harrison heater switch and wiring.

Ouch, I'm getting tired of THIINKING so hard!!! :)

Also it's now coming to me that I'm going to need a nos 6v flasher (I predict mine is shot) and a bunch of little 6v bulbs for that cluster and my turn signal switch.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
SO. You might want to know why I'm messing with wires instead of doing something more satisfying like messing with fenders and getting the insides painted. I know I am!!!


Here's why.

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HOLES!!! The top fenders in each picture are off of the rusty 62. The bottom fenders are off of my 56 and 'some' of the wallered out holes have been welded up to either eliminate or re-drill as needed. So, I figure getting those wires, horn, junction box, figuring out the hangers and routing, well that along with studying others pictures will help me figure it out, along with which wires come through the firewall and where.

I'm also expecting that as bad as I hate to I may have to ream out that main wire harness hole some in the firewall to accommodate my larger wires but not sure yet.



Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Ok. I think that by now I've re-educated myself on wires. Good enough that I took them near about all about back apart!!

I know that a person can't actually see much of them but it seemed to me that dye job wasn't going to hold up so I re-colored then....this time not with dye.


I also sorted out the fender holes enough so that I can go back to work on them and get them ready for paint.

First though I marked measurements on the ones I was welding up...I'm pretty sure they'll never be needed but 'just in case' I ever wondered where they were at for any reason.


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best I could cypher out a few of the wire clip holes were in slightly different places between '56 and '63 but I'm pretty sure Sherlock Holmes would be satisfied.


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Before I called it a night I threw a little primer on the bare steel to prevent flash rust.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Question before I turn in.


I need the diameter of the head on the bed floor bolts. I don't mind making my own reproduction. I just need to know how big around to make them. They look pretty thin but a approximate thickness at the thickest part of those heads wouldn't hurt either.

Thanks. Charles


Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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Rus Curtis
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Charles,
Are you referring to the Step Bolts on the rear deck?

http://cj3b.info/Tech/Fasteners.html

I'm assuming they are the same as the CJ's. It's similar to the carriage bolt but with a larger head. A quick call to local hardware stores will tell you whether they're available or an online search will help with mail order. This Fastenal link has a data sheet for dimesions.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/fasteners...l1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600001 Bolts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600033 Step Bolts"|~ ~|sattr02:^5/16"-18$|~

I noticed they have plain steel in the correct lenght but zinc plated in on the incorrect 2.5" length (could be cut). I assume you're planning on painting vs. leaving the zinc finish since you're ready to "build" your head on the bolt (I assume you mean weld/grind/measure/repeat). For me, I'd prefer easy over hard when it comes to some things.

So far, your project is inspirational! Good luck with the remainder!
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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SteveK
Member
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Charles, I just measured mine and came up with 7/8" across and between 1/8" and 3/16"H at center of the mushroom shape considering possible wear on mine. While there, I measured the wood pieces too. I get 8-1/4"LX1-1/4"WX1" deep each. Hope that helps.
SteveK
62 Dispatcher
South Florida
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Thanks Russ and Steve

Now I remember about the Step Bolts but since I didn't make a note of it at the time I had forgotten. With Steve's measurements I may still make my own because of all the stuff I have laying around but not sure yet.

Those block measurements are great too. I did once have a original block left but it seems to be MIA.

I might not have to cut off a piece of my ear after all!!!

Back working on front fenders. Even though a lot of previous work had been done to them I always knew I'd have to get back to this after the excess holes were welded up.


Posted Image

Both of them had been wrecked and repaired with a monstrous about of bondo which took great pains and a lot of time to remove.

Scratching on my heavy coat of primer in this section with 80 grit the highs (shiny metal) and lows (dark primer) that I hadn't repaired previously have reappeared, just as I expected it too. This is unacceptable so I'll see what I can with hammer and dolly work and shrinking as needed before proceeding further.

Speaking of wooden blocks. Both of my 1956 front fenders had wood blocks inserted in the main brace that attaches them to the frame to help prevent crushing. On my passenger side I've already welded in some tubing for crush sleeves. I expect to do the same to this side too while I'm working here.

Note ....there were no traces of wood inside the hat channel on DJ3A Dispatchers
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
The wood fender inserts were on both my 56 and as shown now on my 62. As you can see they hold moisture and cause rust so I recommend removal and installation of metal crush selves in DJ3A Dispatchers front fender repair.

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My dings are coming out nicely and starting to get smoother to the touch.

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OFF TOPIC:

Those copper pieces I'm now using for welding back up and back up dollies are probably the most expensive ever. That recent weekend I didn't work on my DJ I was removing all of the copper wiring and electrical boxes. Not usually what I do BUT there was hundreds and hundreds of pounds of copper wire AND

I don't know how many electrical boxes some of which were over 8 foot tall and just filled with switches, buss bars, etc. Now this was wired in the 50's and about every one of those bus bars and switches are silver plated. I've probably got a hundred pounds or maybe a lot more of just this silver plated copper. It all came out of a old dairy building.

Now I don't know the real value but I checked and there's a guy that sells lots of these pieces of 7 pounds. It seems to mostly always sell with multiple bidders for a average of 94 to 107 dollars a 8'pound lot for silver plated buss bar pieces and electrical connectors.

Nope, I'm not going to flood that market yet but eventually I'll have time to remove and sell.

Because therein is the money to finish my DJ and hopefully then some.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
The deeper I worked the more that I found that I had previously covered up back when I laid this fender aside. Fixing dings and shrinking waves inside fender.

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Now 'this' is a lot more acceptable to me.

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Next is the crush sleeves and after just a little bit more work getting this back ready for primer and paint.

Lucky for me I had previously completed these type of repairs to the other fender so I'm expecting it to go faster after I get this finished.

Lucky I don't do this for a living. I'd get FIRED for being so slow!!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Permanent crush sleeves installed

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
PREVIOUS WORK

included rebuilding my worn out DJ3A Dispatcher column shifter.



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http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=5815

It's not as hard as you might think!!

I've since rebuilt the one that came off of the 62. I did swap out and replace the previously broke and repaired 56 mounting bracket and used the 62 one on my 56.

Special note is that they are practically the same as a CJ2A column shift. Maybe it should be noted that my 56 had a earlier cj type shift lever with a larger shift ball as noted here

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_B...?showtopic=6662

Which I re-used unless I learn positively different for 56.


Also noting that earlier CJ2A shift RODS (as were on my 56) are smaller diameter rods and not near as beefy as the rods that were on my 62 and other later model DJ3A Dispatchers.

For me it was a no brainer to rob those heavier rods and use on my '56.


EDIT. To clarify further my old and repaired 56 DJ shift rods on the left alongside some extra heavier duty DJ shift rods.

Posted Image
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Keeping it HONEST.

I don't mind taking the time and I don't mind doing the work. Whatever it takes.

What I don't have is the skill set to get this metal perfectly smooth without using at least some body filler. I will say that even though I don't like doing this I've never had any fail on previous stuff I've done, and right now I'm not set up for lead which I prefer.

So I try to keep it to a absolute minimum.

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Before primer even some of this metal will be worked so that the filler can be sanded down a bit further.
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
PREVIOUSLY:

Here's the first time I ever raised her up high to have a look see before stripping everything apart down to the last nut and bolt. Almost everything DJ and important was missing anyway. Especially notice how badly that pinto axle is installed.

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I was REAL LUCKY to find a huge lot of DJ stuff that had been taken off and stored years and years ago in OHIO. Among the numerous other parts I went and got there was front and rear axles, both of which I was later to find I would be needing.

A really pleasant surprise was that on both of those axles were practically brand new brake shoes that I re-used when I put everything back together.

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Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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PapaC
Papac
[ *   *   *   *   *  ]
Got interrupted again with real work. In the meantime I've been re-honing my skills and bumping around on these fenders off and on. The insides are now practically ready for paint!


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I'm going to finish up the outsides today a tiny bit of touch up on the inside and start back working on my grill which I also laid aside long ago.

PS in town the other day I did go ahead and stop by Fastenal and order the STEPBOLTS to fasten my bed floor down on my Willys Jeep DJ3A Dispatcher.

GOOD FOLKS THERE! To get them for me shipping was going to be about 10 dollars which still really wouldn't have been that big of a deal. BUT to save that they ordered them believe it or not under New Albany's Light Gas and Water account!!! :)

So, later today when I pick them up if the person who ordered them for me isn't there I just have to say I'm picking them up for NALG&W and pay cash!!

Whaaaa Hoooo!!!
Charles Tate....North Mississippi

1956 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible
Doing ground up nuts and bolt restoration by almost entirely reconditioning original used or a few NOS DJ3A parts.

1962 WILLYS DJ3A Convertible. (For research and parts only)
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